| Author | Message | ||
     Pizzaboy |
ok guys, ive done my research on the archives of this forum to learn about others' experiences with water pump failures. mine appears to be text book weep hole drainage... at a 'more than a oozing' rate. in fact its going through about 1/4 gallon per 150 miles. im ready to rip it apart the moment i have a game plan! here they are! 1. there are about 4 tools (1 for the clutch, 3 for the water pump seal) that the manual calls for between me and how far i need to tear into the engine to do the repair. which of these tools are necessary, which ones arent? what was your source for the necessary tools? if you did not use them, how did you do it? tips/tricks? 2. is the $~450 updated cover replacement package necessary, or can i just replace the rotary seal in the original '08 configuration??? is it cost effective compared to just replacing the minimum $60 worth of parts? | ||
| D_adams |
Mine was done under warranty, so I don't have 1st hand experience, but what I was told was, the rear header has to come off for the cover to be removed. If you have a lift, I think you can get at the header bolts by dropping the swingarm down some (remove the wheel, unbolt the shock, lower swingarm) but not remove it. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
It's a pretty big job. I did the whole assembly. Only special tool I used was the crank locking tool. | ||
| Sportster_mann |
If you're referring to 2010 MY parts then I wouldn't bother - mine is leaking on a 2010 CR ...  | ||
| Battyone |
little Joe's had the latest waterpump and cover fitted and it's started weeping. However EBR suggest it's only condensation and told him to plug the weep hole. You don't "need" the crank locking tool,but you do have to align the timing marks on the drive/balance gears,before refitting the pump cover(also timed) I'm going electric,the pumps all seem to be hard to rotate. |
