| Author | Message | ||
     Theshinenz |
Hi guys, I've been having the old brake shudder problem and am fitting the new finned EBR rotor, the OEM pads still have quite a bit of wear in them, can I re-use the OEM pads without having shudder on the new rotor or will it cause the same issue on the new rotor if I don't change them right away? Cheers | ||
| Nillaice |
you can try it, but the shudder will most likely return after a while. unless you change your habbits and start using the rear bake to hold you at stoplights. the cause of the shudder is the OEM pads being held against a hot rotor. ... like at a stoplight. | ||
| Kruizen |
Matt, I'm going to disagree here. I really doubt he is building up enough heat on the street to start warping the rotor, by keeping the pads on the rotor at a light. Deposit build up on the rotor I can see, had it on the 08, i'd have the shutter, scotch bright the rotor and would be good for a few hundred miles, then it would come back. Always with the stock pads. Will changing pads help: yes, I would change the pads. | ||
| Theshinenz |
I just bought the bike second hand, i use the rear by habit when stopping anyway. I've owned a 1125r and now the 1125cr both had this problem when I bought them, so must be pretty common, I thought it was a warped rotor for a start. | ||
| D_adams |
Buy the 2015 compound pads, they're worth it. Seriously. I would not re-use old pads on a new rotor. If you don't have the $$ for both, wait until you do. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Scuff the existing pads prior to use. I've always just used flat concrete, rub them in a figure 8 pattern. | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
Not replacing the mounting hardware in time can lead to some warpage. I notched the insides of the mounting tabs pretty well on a 6mm rotor and it's ruined now. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Some have reported rotor build-up as a possible cause. Kruizen's approach seems to work. But if you are replacing rotor, then warpage and hardware should be a non-issue. Replace hardware when you install new rotor. (the EBR stuff is the way to go) I'm using the 2015 pads on the race bike and like them for that application. They're quite a bit "grabbier" than the stockers and seem to wear really well. For street, stockers are quite a bit less coin and entirely adequate, IMO. In any case, if you are replacing rotor, I'd go ahead and replace pads - there's a number of threads on here about pads available. Keep the old ones as back-ups. Opinions and preferences vary....no warranty expressed or implied.... | ||
| Nobuell |
I run the stock pads on my Uly and 1125R. I have never had the shutter issue. I do periodically clean my rotor with brake cleaner. I also make sure the rotors hardware is not clogged locking out the rotor float. I am not bashful with the front brake and try not to hold the front brake after a hard stop. | ||
| Nillaice |
Erik, that is what i have reasoned from my experiences with the 6-pot brakes. when i changed my pads (and did nothing else) the pulsing went away and hasn't come back in 13 K mi. i don't think that his rotor is warped. as best i know the OEM pads leave deposits on the rotor, resulting in "rough spots' and the resultant "pulsing". i may be wrong. i've been wrong before and, unless i'm wrong; i'm sure i'll be wrong again. ... i never had much shudder to speak of on an 8-pot brake system that was not expected. i think we all know that one can still push it pretty hard on the street ... what ever his riding habbits are; i think we can both agree that there is something with the OEM setup that eventually results in a recurring shudder. (Message edited by nillaice on October 04, 2012) | ||
| Kruizen |
I agree there is something with stock pads(is my guess), only had it on the 08, but never experienced it on the 09. But I was a lot harder on the brakes from the beginning on the 09. Matt have you gotten that thing back together yet? We need to get you back on the track. |
