| Author | Message | ||
     Georgehitch17 |
Hey guys I have a nice little bonus check coming next month and I was thinking of getting goodies for the R aside from the valve check!!  I hear a lot of good things about upgrading for better MC's for the clutch and brakes. I don't race but I do ride it hard on these ohio roads and track days as well. Could someone show me what all I need to upgrade and whats the best bang for buck!? I'm assuming the brembos but I will take your advice! Thanks in advance. | ||
| Sl33py |
What's your budget? If you want to go to a radial, there are a ton of options. I'm no racer but hope to go track occasionally, so those who can speak about this more accurately will probably chime in. I'm going Brembo RCS (both sides w/ clipons). There are Nissin options, and some models that were OEM on R6/R1 that should be an upgrade (on the cheap). Fleabay had a matched set of Nissin radials (brake and clutch) for just a bit more than one RCS... Before ordering my clutch MC, i asked here to clarify which model. The RCS16 is not quite up to the task, so went with RCS19 for clutch. Just FYI. Got mine on the way from Kurveygirl (great service). There may be cheaper places around online as well. GL! rob | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Well I saw a nice looking Beringer but $550 for just the brake was out of my budget! Is this something I could do for around $600 doing both sides with Brembo radials? | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
I found matching brembo rcs 19 masters for clutch and brake for 729.00 shipped. Is this a good deal and what other parts would I need???? also do they interfere with me existing like and kill switch modules? | ||
| Sl33py |
George - besides the service (excellent) i really liked kurveygirl's price w/ the extras they throw in. Besides the MC's you'll need reservoirs and assorted mounting. I got the brembo mounts for mine, but the ladybird style is also really clean. KG throws in Ti Banjo and some clear Tygon (i like for seeing bubbles). 333 ea iirc, then 50-60 per side for brembo reservoir kits. Or get the reservoir components and save a bit. Ti banjo is typically 13 and Tygon 5 (free w/ her RCS). She has a couple of the RCS19 clutch MC's i know cause she ordered them after speaking with me and the USA rep to verify this was what was recommended for 25R's. I had trouble finding these when i looked myself, but you may have better luck. HTH! | ||
| Sl33py |
Again, don't overlook the Nissin options on ebay, or the R6/R1 MC's (brembo i believe). And EBR has the accossato MC's as well! | ||
| Jdugger |
The RCS19 brake MC has a switch that works just fine if you can crimp or solder the leads together. I'm not sure about the clutch side, as I prefer to not have a clutch switch for the reduced engine braking. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
I saw a post from Rodrob he mentioned that the brembo was far superior to the accossatos. I also do not the run the clutch switch because it seemed to stall more often at idle with it pulled in... | ||
| Sl33py |
I haven't installed mine yet. Didn't know we had a clutch switch... I don't know i push mine enough to notice the difference between A & B, but trust Rob knows what he's talking about! | ||
| Kruizen |
RCS 19 clutch MC didn't come with a switch. | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
Kurvygirl has great deals and all the accessories I need! looks like I would be spending around $800. In your guys opinions would it be foolish to upgrade those items before improving my front and rear suspension? | ||
| Jdugger |
The clutch, definitely. You get nothing for that, really. Other than your MCs match. Suspension is big. It will cost you a touch more than that on each end to do it right. | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
You'll need clip-ons, which means you'll need a new upper triple as well. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I'm sure that I've gotten away with a few things on the track that my suspension has allowed me to do. Do I have a way to prove that....nope, but having a suspension that keeps my tire on the track better can only help. | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
Amen to that. | ||
| 01fxdx |
I read about these mc upgrades and people wanting to switch up clutch side. I use my clutch from a stop light or pit road and that's it. why spend the cash? brakes are a different story and i get that. Clutch? I rarely even touch it. | ||
| Jdugger |
The main reason to do the clutch MC is the OEM fixure with the integrated res causes a lot of problems with clip-ons that use a replaceable bar. At least, that's why I went ahead and did mine. With the RCS19, then both sides use the same replacable half-lever, so you carry fewer spares  | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
I already have a Oberon clutch slave cylinder. SO its a super easy pull I just figured it wouldn't hurt. But maybe I should just upgrade the brake and try to get a rear shock! Any idea on the cost of one of those JRI's | ||
| Erwin8r |
Don't count out the Nissin or Yamaha/Brembo's radials--I found a very clean Nisin brake radial on eBay for $50; arguably not as "high quality" as a race Brembo's unit, it still dramatically improves the feel and power over the old Nissin unit. FYI, zx6/10r radial Nissins are identical to gsxr units, so you can broaden your search... Here's a picture of one on my XB12S:  | ||
| Rodrob |
I use my clutch from a stop light or pit road and that's it. why spend the cash? brakes are a different story and i get that. Clutch? I rarely even touch it. Agreed. Clutch MC upgrade is the very last thing I would do. I almost never use it. You can't be really aggressive on the brakes unless your suspension is correct. IMHO, Forks first, Shock second, Brakes third. Showa cartridges and Shock from EBR are a great deal. I run them on my 1125 race bike and have no complaints. Yes, you can do a lot better, but for no where near the money. The Beringer MC is simply awesome. | ||
| X1brett |
01fxdx and Rob, do you no-clutch shift on a stock 1125 clutch? If so, would you briefly instruct how to do this without being rough on the engine/tranny? Thanks. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I only track ride, but never clutch upshifts. Just put some pressure on the shift lever, then quickly let off the throttle. It will fall into gear. I do clutch on the way down. It's easily done on the street also, did it a lot on my XB9, but not all the time. | ||
| 01fxdx |
Down shifts are all about timing. Blip the throttle just right to downshift. I've never rode with a real slipper, so not sure what I'm missing. Watching guys come into a corner at the track I can see the diference.I can't justify the cash for me, I suck. Hard on engine and tranny? Can't be worse than extended rides on back wheel only. | ||
| Rodrob |
Yeah, it's all about timing. On the track I will use the clutch for downshifts. last thing you want to do under max breaking is screw up a downshift and have the rear end hopping around. A slipper clutch makes a HUGE difference. One of the hardest adjustments I had to make switching from the 1190 to the 1125 in last weeks race, was not having a slipper clutch. With a slipper, you still have to blip the throttle some, but the shifts are always seamless and never they upset the bike. Also the effect on handling is profound, especially in the slower corners where the non linear effects of engine braking on a big twin can come on suddenly and you find yourself with less apex speed than you anticipated. You can use this to your advantage once you get it wired. Especially when trying to make an inside pass. | ||
| Jdugger |
Put a suter in the 1125r... | ||
| Rodrob |
Put a suter in the 1125r... Cant afford it. Everything is sunk into the 1190. Probably will sell the 1125R to pay for tires and racing once the motors back together. | ||
| Jdugger |
I hear ya bro. 1190 = Big Money. AMA Racing = Bigger Money | ||
| X1brett |
Thanks for the input guys! | ||
| Cherry_bomb |
what's the story with the clutch switch? i plan to buy the brembo rcs19 brake and clutch masters. for what reason is there a clutch switch (engaged/not engaged)? and is it possible to wire the rcs19 with that? |
