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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through September 17, 2012 » Clutch - replacement plates/springs sources? « Previous Next »

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Pwillikers
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I need to replace the clutch on my '09 CR. So far I've found a Barnett kit (303-30-20125). Any experiences and suggestions on sources for this kit? Are there any other manufacturers you'd suggest? Thanks.

(Message edited by pwillikers on August 20, 2012)
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Barnet works. Using one here
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Pwillikers
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where'd you get it? I can't seem to find anyone who stocks it or can order it. Thanks.
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Asb
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Pwillikers
Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This will be my first wet motorcycle clutch replacement. I've done car and BMW MC dry clutches before. I see that there is a special clutch tool (that looks like a clutch plate with a handle). Do I need this tool to replace only the plates and springs? It looks like it might be for holding the basket to remove/install it.

Are there any other procedural hints you can provide to help make this go smoothly?

Thanks.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes - you're correct the plate with the handle is for removing the inner hub ( and reinstalling the hub) - which you should NOT have to do.
Tips:
1)soak your fibre plates at least overnight in the same oil as in your bike...it'll prevent the new plates from sticking.
2)watch the order in which the plates are "stacked" which goes first ( steel or fibre) which goes last?
3) the bolts or screws that hold the outer cover to the clutch assembly are pre-loaded by the springs - usually long enough so that when you unscrew the fastener the spring will be in a relaxed state - be careful they could have a small amount of pre-load and when you get close to it being free - it may go flying
4) a rag stuffed between the crank gear and the clutch can help "stop" the clutch from turning when you are removing the outer cover fasteners/springs
5) Tricky part - may need a special tool depending upon your experience - re- installing the fasteners and the outer clutch cover with the springs - too often the clutch springs can give you an artificial "tighteness/torque" - you may want to rent/borrow a torque wrench to make sure the bolts are tighten to the correct level....usually the fasteners are steel and the threaded "bosses" in the clutch are aluminum - be careful you don't over tighten...they'll strip
6)when tightening the fasteners do it in a "star" pattern - like the lug nuts on a car's wheel
7) a big aluminum foil roasting pan under the engine makes a good "catch can" for oil (you remembered to soak the plates?) and it keeps parts from rolling away
8) I use anti-seize for fasteners ( like you get at the auto parts store in the catsup pacs for spark plug threads) on my side cover gaskets - it allows for easy removal the next time and usually keeps them from sticking or tearing.
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Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A clutch job on these bikes is a 30-minute procedure. It's so easy it's amazing. You don't even need to drop the oil if you don't mind leaning the bike on to a shop stool during the job.

I've done them track-side. Piece of cake.
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Pwillikers
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

UPDATE: I bought and installed a Barnett clutch kit (plates and springs). I had previously installed an EBR clutch slave cylinder kit to fix the omnipresent weep. With the new clutch and the EBR slave cylinder, the lever action was restored to as new with the exception that the lever pull was significantly harder due to the increased rate of the Barnett springs.

The Barnett springs are so much heavier than the OEM springs that I found the lever pull unreasonable. I pulled it apart and replaced the Barnett springs with the OEM springs. The lever pull is now just as light as stock and there's no slippage.

Looks like I'm back in business. : )
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Jdugger
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No real reason for the heavy springs... even with 155hp on the dyno, I use the oem spring weight. I'm on a suter clutch, though.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EBR has stiffer "race" springs, I put a set in for a guy when I installed his slave piston/sleeve.
I couldn't believe how stiff the clutch pull was afterwards.
I really expected him to come back and get the original springs put back in, but he said he likes it that way.

They make the clutch lever harder to pull than my Ulysses... eff that.

Z
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