| Author | Message | ||
     Tcbolt |
Need some input from you guys. Took the bike on a good 500 mile or so ride about a month ago. Got back into town and noticed the engine making noise. Sounds like valve noise but louder than usual at idle, but when leaving from a stop or accelerating it gets much more aggressive, almost a knocking sound. It sounded like a valvetrain issue to me, so I rotated the engine down and checked the valvetrain in both cylinders and adjusted the valves while I was in there, which all of them were still in spec. Manually turned the engine over while I had it apart and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Put it all back together and still have the same problem. I'm guessing now its something in the bottom end. Would like to get the input from here before I take the engine out of take it to the dealer (which I'm trying to avoid). Anyone have an issue close to this? I have an 09 cr with six thousand miles. Thanks in advance for any thoughts | ||
| Froggy |
Is it coming from the ignition cover? Your rotor nut might be loose. | ||
| Tbowdre |
+1 | ||
| Brumbear |
I would check the rotor as mentioned. Also drain your oil make sure timing chain tension/guide didn't brake i have seen a few of those go bad. | ||
| Tcbolt |
Awesome. Will do both this week and post back up with my findings. Had the cam chain tensioner recall done a while ago. But new parts go bad too. Thanks everyone. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Was there a cam chain tensioner recall on all 09's? Or only early ones? I bought mine new and have not had any contact on this. | ||
| Tcbolt |
not too sure if it pertained to all 1125's. i received a letter in the mail from harley stating that my bike needed the recall to be done. will i need the crankshaft locking tool to torque down the rotor nut? or can i get away without it? | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Need the tool. And a new nut since yours loosened. And borrow a 300lb torque wrench from an 18 wheeler repair place. And this.. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/654656.html I've got the tool, let me know if you need to borrow since it seems they are maybe not available right now. | ||
| Tcbolt |
just ordered a stator cover gasket, and crankshaft locking tool from ebr. and the rotor nut from harley. now i just have to wait. the parts guy at the dealer had a hard time finding the nut. came up with a part number cd0033.1am. is this the right part number? thanks Duphuckicati for offering to loan me your tool. i got lucky enough that ebr had one in stock. i dont even loan my tools to most people i know, youre a good man. | ||
| Sprintst |
shouldn't he do the EBR upgraded rotor? | ||
| Tcbolt |
i'm not having any charging issues, just the knocking. plus i don't have an extra $425 for the new rotor. would be nice though. | ||
| Tbowdre |
its not 425, they will give you 250.00 back on your rotor as a core! if you have on OEM 2009-2010 you will have charging issues at come point | ||
| Imonabuss |
If you don't replace the rotor with an EBR oil jet one soon, you will wind up also replacing the stator at $680. So $175 now vs. $855 later. | ||
| Froggy |
This. Quite frankly it would be stupid to not do the rotor replacement now. You already need to do 90% of the work involved just to replace the loose nut, might as well do the few extra steps to save yourself grief in the future. | ||
| Tcbolt |
touche! damn you all ganging up on me at once. those are all very good points. i am still on the oem stator, soooooo maybe i should pull the trigger now. thanks for all the input, greatly appreciated | ||
| Zac4mac |
Remember, if all you can find is a 150 lb torque wrench, MAKE a 300# wrench. 150 lbs at 3 O'Clock on a 2' bar is 300 lbs-ft when not moving. Apply Loctite 272 - High Temp Red Torque to 210 ft-lb Back off 720 degrees(2 turns) Tighten to 295 ft-lb(300  ) | ||
| Crowley |
..........or you could try a bar 300' long and use a 1lb weight  | ||
| Redcrrider |
I think if you have a 300 foot bar, then the weight of the bar would come into play. Every time Zac mentions the 2 foot bar at 3 O'clock, it makes my head hurt. So if I sit on the bar (150lbs person) at 3 o'clock it will tighten the nut until 300 foot lbs? So just keep hanging my weight on the bar, then if I put it back at 3 o'clock it should not move when i sit on it? Makes sense. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Bingo Because torque is rotational, anything like 0, 90, 180 etc are easy numbers. You gotta deal with sines and cosines on anything else... 3 O'Clock is square. Z (Message edited by zac4mac on August 16, 2012) | ||
| Tcbolt |
update: finally got around to the bike. changed out the rotor nut. no more noise!! don't have the funds right now to due the rotor upgrade, so that will come later. the stator is a dark brown so hopefully get to the rotor soon. just wanted to say thanks again for everyone's input, and all the helpful info. helped out a ton. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
What method did you use to get the 300 ft/lbs? | ||
| Battyone |
So was the rotor very loose? or just not tight enough? seems a bizarre problem,but my fresh motor was knocking by the end of the weekend. And it's a very early one,preproduction.When I stripped it's twin it was def green loctite used. Are we talking just a tiny amount of movement on the old install procedure? | ||
| Tcbolt |
used zac4mac's method: red loctite tightened to 210ft lb backed off two turns tightened down o 300ft lb the old nut was fairly loose. wasn't able to spin it off with my fingers, but my 2 ft breaker bar definitely wasn't necessary to take it off. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Ooops. I misspoke when I said Red 272. That is regular Red. Should be Red 271, Hi-temp/Hi-strength. Sorry for that. Z | ||
| Battyone |
"Ooops. I misspoke when I said Red 272. That is regular Red. Should be Red 271, Hi-temp/Hi-strength. Sorry for that." Don't panic I just checked,I've got an email from Michael Richter confirming 272. Anyone had the knock but not found nut to be massively loose? I wonder if the upto 210 then back 2 turns,then torque to 300, is to force loctite into the splines to prevent the knock returning???? | ||
| Kevmean |
You don't want to force locktite into the splines if you have the new oil drilled rotor  the locktight needs to be kept well away from the oil hole. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
The backing-off two turns and the lower setting then higher is to cause some sort of activation in the loctite. Got that from a rep for the company over the phone. |
