| Author | Message | ||
     Dktechguy112 |
I am about to tear into the engine to check the wristpin clips on the cylinders, as I found one in the oil when I did an oil change. Anybody have any experience with removing the heads and cylinders? Any tips? I have already removed the frame on my bike, I know how to do that. I've never had to go into the engine before. Here is the list of parts that I think I will need. Gaskets: Cylinder head gaskets - V0026.1AM - $50 x 2 Cylinder base gasket – V0025.1am - $8.30 x 2 Cylinder valve gasket - r1001.1am- $20 Bolts: Cam shaft gear fasteners – CA0036.1am - $8 x4 = $32 Special tools: Crankshaft locking tool - I ordered this from EBR. B-49258 camshaft locking tool - I can't find this part online, Do you guys know where I can get this? Do I have to have this if I have the crankshaft locking tool I'm still looking for a 2010 service manual, I have a 2009 service manual. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I just checked American Sport Bike for your 1125cr cam locking tool. Could not find it on their website. I'd call Al or Joanne at American Sport Bike anyway and ask them if they have it or know where to get it. Please post step-by-step photos and write ups about this experience. As time goes on, we will all benefit from your experience. Thanks for your consideration. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
I'm going to take a lot of pics and video. This is my second time removing the frame, and I learned a lot the first time. I have a few tricks to save a lot of time. I'm hoping to get a few hints on the engine rebuild. I already know not to drop the shims. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Going to the Bub LSR deal at the end of this month at Wendover on the Bonneville Salt Flats. There will be two bikes there running heads that I built/ported and I hope they do well. I will be tearing into Loretta's motor after we get back from that trip. I was thinking my power loss might be cam chain guides but when I dropped the screen I found SAND not plastic. Plan now is to pull the motor and do a complete tear-down, blueprint and rebuild. I have the cranklocking tool and the cam tool both from EBR. link to the cam tool - http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ camshaft-locking-tool.html Good luck if you start before me. I'll be in touch here. Zack | ||
| Rodrob |
I've got my 1190 apart right now for some mid season tweaking. You don't need the cam locking tool unless you plan to disassemble the cams which, unless there in unusual wear or other problems, you probably don't have to. Just pull the whole cam assembly off and make sure it does not fall apart in the process. One trick that EBR does is to put each cylinder at TDC and then use a felt marker to draw a line across the cam sprocket, using the top edge of the head as a guide, before disassembly. This makes it very easy to get the cams back on, in exactly the right timing. You also need to make sure that you get the water pump drive gear synchronized correctly this the balancer shaft. There is a special pin tool for this, but I use a 4mm allen wrench, which works just fine. Here are a couple of picks. I'll post more later. BTW, check out my motor #... RW01. Rob Weaver 01. I thought that was pretty cool.   PS - The 1190rs is a lot easier to work on than the 1125r. The lack of pods and seperate engine wiring harness, makes pulling the frame a snap. I hope that the next generation of bikes maintain this approach. Much better. One more thing. Unless you have an engine stand (I don't), leave the motor on the swing arm until you have everything off and are ready to split the cases. Makes things much easier. (Message edited by Rodrob on August 06, 2012) (Message edited by Rodrob on August 06, 2012) | ||
| Firemanjim |
See ya at Bubs,Zack! | ||
| Rodrob |
Cam pics and head shots     | ||
| Fast1075 |
I see slotted cam sprockets!  | ||
| Rodrob |
Yup. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
The 1125 had slots | ||
| Rodrob |
Yeah but they were penny slots. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I just drooled on myself. Thanks Rob. See ya there Jim. Got a few things to talk about. Z |
