| Author | Message | ||
     Guambra2001 |
Thanks in advance for the help, I did try and search for the issue but could not find it. After not having my bike for 2 1/2 months for the stator issue, I received it last week with a rewound stator and new EBR rotor hoping my electrical issues would be gone. I took my 1125CR to the track on Friday and she ran fine for the first couple of sessions, after the 3rd session I noticed some sputtering and noticed the CEL and batterie light came on. After my last run in the track a very heavy storm rolled in and my bike did not have a cover (it got rained on pretty hard), after the rain subsided I tried to see if it would start but to no luck (not even the IC would light up). Now my problem the IC lights up now but when I try to start it it fails to do so. No clicking noise, no anything just press the button and nothing happens. I'm not very mechanical at all, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. Had to miss my superstreet race for this  Thanks again. | ||
| Xnoahx |
Stock battery? Might be time for a replacement. 3-4 years old and not the best conditions on these bikes | ||
| Guambra2001 |
How do you know if the battery is good? | ||
| Advanced66 |
Do you have a trickle charger, put it on overnight, if it starts, its in the charging system, if it doesn't start, its the battery. | ||
| Advanced66 |
Actually, there could be other issues, but start simple. | ||
| Bartimus |
I would take a WAG and say its stator related... | ||
| Cheez2158 |
check to see if baterry connections are tight my hround gets loose frequemtly i tighten it before every ride | ||
| Ratbuell |
Battery connections are easy - go to the hardware store and get a baggie of star washers (the ones with the little teeth on them). Put one on the screw. Then your first wire lead. Then another washer. Then your next lead. And so on. Finish with a star washer against the battery terminal, so you have a stack like this: screw head washer wire washer wire washer wire washer battery. They won't come loose again. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Battery check involves more than simply charging. It needs to hold a charge and it needs the amps. Specifically you need a "load test" and it needs to have 200CCA. Think flashlight. You turn it on, get a white light for a minute, then it goes to yellow and small. You wait another hour and try again. White light fades to small yellow even quicker. At that point, you don't need a forum to tell you to recharge or change batteries. If the flashlight is bright but flickering, you know it's the contacts that is the problem. I think it's the first issue and that the rain is probably not a factor. Check the battery first. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Dave - Waaaa?? Battery seemed strong last week, I had it on a tender 2-3 days b4 you picked her up. Do the headlights come on with the switch? check the fuse. No headlights, no start. Z | ||
| Guambra2001 |
Zack, Checked the fuses and they are good. The headlight does come on when I put the key in the ignition. Took out the battery and I'm gonna have auto zone fully charge it an see if it's the battery that is the problem. If not, than ill give you a call and see if we can one up with something. Btw the connections on the battery were good. | ||
| Guambra2001 |
Battery is good, it holds a charge according to the battery plus guy. Checked the fuses on the fuse box and they are good to go. Any suggestions? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
chk the grounds - is the battery cable on the chassis ground (under the sub frame by the swing arm pivot) it's a 6mm stud with a 10mm nut ...is it tight? I added a redundant ground to help in hot starts see here ( scroll down for pix): http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/674577.html?1336678989 with compressed air (even those compress cans of air for cleaning computers may work) try cleaning out the handlebar switches/ under the ignition switch by the fairing brace. there is a "box" of relays back by the battery ( looks like the fuse box)there are a large amount of white relays and a black relay - the black relay controls lights and starting - HD uses the same one on V-Rods - some Vrod owners report that the relay fails and they can't start the engine - it's a automotive headlight relay - you can try pulling it and have a guy at the automotive parts place match it up. good luck | ||
| Guambra2001 |
Nuts4mc, Thanks I did check the ground and it seemed tight not loose. I tried to clean the switch as much as I could but to no avail. I'll try the relay but they all looked ok to me. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Relays usually do look ok from the outside. The cross over part is out of a ford we could only find one in daytona and it was pretty spendy as I recall it(for an automotive relay). Kill switch in right position? I know seems obvious but I've done it. Bike in neutral? Bank angle? | ||
| Zac4mac |
We've been thru swapping relays and cycling the kill switch. no joy. IC comes on(switch on) and tach needle sweeps. Horn and brake lites work. No ignition relay click at turn-on or off. I'm starting to lean towards the IC being corrupt. Security stuff with lo-voltage/comms issue. Need to check voltages, but I'm 130 miles north. Trying to save Dave a trip, especially something small... Z |
