| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue4 |
If you've read my other post you know that I've been having problems with my CR running. I've blamed it on almost everything but the cause. Symptoms have been hard starting, stalling, backfiring and hesitation under acceleration. I tore the bike down one last time before sending my ECM back to EBR for testing. I believe the culprit is a leaking rear intake seal. It appears that the seal clamp was overtightened and the vibration of the motor eventually caused the clap to cut into the seal. I ran a propane test that indicated there was a leak but you could hear it anyway. You cant's hear it very well in the video but you might be able to pick up on it. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm tearing down the throttle bodies as we speak but I need to know the quickest way to get news seals. I remember a thread somewhere on here where someone recommended different seals. I believe they were blue in color. Anyone have an idea what I'm talking about? Pics and Vid:     http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeeDDMs1XPg&feature =plcp | ||
| Rogue4 |
I have no idea how to embed a video but if someone could I would appreciate it. Thanks. | ||
| Andros |
I have the exact same issue! Just havent had time to fix it! Keep me posted since its a big problem for me! | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Vid: | ||
| S21125r |
That's good news! You know Rogue, I was thinking either that or a clogged injector or bad fuel pump/regulator but when you reported back that your AFVs were 100/100 I backed off off of those being an issue. Pretty sure if you had been running a stock ECM you would see the AFV climb on the affected cylinder(s) as the ECM tried to compensate for the lean condition by adding pulse width. I believe the EBR ECM manipulates the AFV values differently than stock ECM (speculation: locked at 100/100 maybe?). Anyway, looks like you found the culprit. | ||
| Rogue4 |
I think the AFV's being at 100/100 was just because of the EBR ECM. From what I understand it does lock them at 100/100. I threw the stock ECM on yesterday. Started up and idled much better but it barely made it around the block. Checked the AFV's when I got back and I was at 122/110. Anyway I just took the throttle body off.  I was hoping to find some visible crack or hole but I don't see anything. I still need to figure out where to find new ones fast and hopefully this fixes my problems. On another note, thing are looking pretty dirty for only 4,000 miles...   | ||
| D_adams |
Since you're already in there, take the solenoid off. | ||
| Rogue4 |
Is that necessary with the Race ECM? I was told it wasn't but I'm open to opinions. Thanks for the help earlier by the way Dean. | ||
| Rogue4 |
Well I found the seals that I was thinking of earlier. James Genuine seals through Dennis Kirk. Unfortunately they don't stock any for an 1125. I might be stuck waiting weeks through the dealership. | ||
| Froggy |
Its not necessary with the Race ECM, but being that it is dead weight, and you had to disconnect it to get to the throttle body off anyway, might as well seal the deal and make it permanent. | ||
| Rogue4 |
Well the "since I'm in here I might as well...." disease hit and I figured I might as well change the spark plugs. I haven't looked at the front yet but the rear had a milky white substance all over the spark plug. We all know what this means...water. It looks like I very well might have mis-diagnosed my problem once again. This could explain the noise coming from the rear cylinder and me not finding anything wrong with the rear seal like I mentioned earlier. My coolant level is perfect. It hasn't been touched since the bike was new. I was actually about to flush and replace the coolant. Now I just want to burn this piece of $*#@ to the ground. If it's not one thing it's another. '09 with 4000 miles and it has spent more time torn down than ridden. I really want to like this bike but.... Edit: Just drained 800 mile old Amsoil to see if it had water indications. None, Looked like almost new oil. So WTF is up with the spark plug? (Message edited by rogue4 on June 19, 2012) | ||
| Andros |
If the seal werent leaking how come the engine reacts when you spray on that area? | ||
| D_adams |
My original set of plugs had a white paste on them, possibly this stuff. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Anti-Seiz e-Compound-3KE65 | ||
| Craigsmoney |
I feel your pain Rogue. I am trying to chase the gremlins away from my bike too. Maybe your intake boot wasn't torn, but not seated properly. Try switching front for back and seeing what happens. If all your fluid levels are good, I'd have to agree with d_adams and say it may have been there from the start. clean it off and stick it back in the whole. Have you checked timing? Good luck my friend. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
I don't get it. I am probably very lucky. I have an R and a CR. No mayor problems. Stator died on my CR but it was replaced under warranty. After that I have had nothing else going wrong on them. Other that regular maintenance and minor adjustments (like the neutral switch leaking oil). This are machines. They need attention and I don't mind giving them some. I have lately been considering the Honda CBR. I like the way it looks plus I am sure performance wise it is an excellent bike. But then I think: What if it never breaks? Then I would have to look for excuses to break into it. Hehe. I guess what I'm trying to say is that this bikes are not for everyone. | ||
| Rogue4 |
Thanks Dean, I've never heard of using anti-seize on spark plugs but I bet that's what it was. Spark plugs and seals are on the way. I will update when I get it all back together. | ||
| Andros |
Why new seals if they were intact? And how come the engine would react to the spray if the seals were intact? | ||
| D_adams |
From what I see, there are 6 main possible locations for a leak. Either boot, the gasket under the short manifold that the boot is attached to or the O-ring for either injector. This is not counting the throttle bodies or the shafts going through them. | ||
| Stevek1125r |
Are you Sure its an intake leak and not a LACK of fuel...?, this would cause and extreme lean condition and of course it would run like crap. When my fuel pump got clogged up (3 different ocassions) the bike ran like crap, hard to start, backfire, lean popping and loss of power.... I also thought maybe i had a intake leak... did many tests, replaced various parts and in the end... it was a clogged fuel pump.. 4 in 12,000 miles.... YES FOUR (4) in 12,000 miles. I plan on making a posting about my issues once i get the bike back.. but mine was due to other issues.... one check is to go into DIAG mode and flip till you see the Fuel pressure... It SHOULD build pressure and HOLD that pressure, (bump the starter button to see the pressure rise) if it doesn't, the pump is quite possibly faulty.. Next thing i would do is drain the tank into clear mason jars and see if there is anything in the fuel......Lets us know if you find anything. these are easy tasks to do just to be sure.. I'm not saying your issues are like mine, but it SOUNDs all to familiar... | ||
| Rogue4 |
I checked the fuel pressure before tearing it down. All was well. I was actually on the phone with Danny Bilansky from EBR while I was running through the diag mode. Anyway I also checked the o-rings under the intake boots. They looked fine. The ECM is going back to EBR tomorrow to make sure it has the proper map in it. There's a possibility the dealer re-flashed it. | ||
| Rogue4 |
Andros: I'm replacing the seals because for $6 I'm willing to spend that to eliminate that variable. The same with spark plugs, exhaust, ECM etc. I guess if I keep replacing parts it's bound to be fixed someday. | ||
| Torquehd |
just FYI, the standard HD intake seals that were used on Harley and Buell models prior to the 1125r were really touchy, and if they weren't installed cautiously they would leak. maybe intake seals in general are touchy. and what you're describing does sound a lot like intake seals. | ||
| Andros |
Hey rogue4! Please keep me posted with your findings! | ||
| Rogue4 |
Fixed and running better than ever! I had a few small issues but the main culprit was.....wait for it......loose spark plug. Not having the leaky HMF on anymore and re-seating the intake seal I'm sure helped also. I was stunned when I went to take the spark plug out and it was loose. It didn't look overly dirty with carbon though. It probably would have worked fine if I just screwed it back in but I went ahead and replaced both. Night and day difference now. I appreciate the board but I have to give the most thanks to Dean Adams (Keda Designs). He went above and beyond by getting me an RT3 quick and tons of tech advice. I've never heard of anyone having a loose spark plug issue with these bikes. Plugs were original and never touched. 4,000 miles. | ||
| Andros |
Wooooohoooo congrats!!!! Will check mine as well! Thank you so much for keeping us posted! | ||
| Andros |
It was the rear spark plug right? | ||
| Rogue4 |
It was the front. |
