| Author | Message | ||
     Captjoe |
Anyone written down the steps to install a 2010 Rs tail light on a 2009 R? EBR's website said they had a few "used" ones with the re-terminated ends so I ordered one and sent them an e-mail specifically asking for the "used" version. Got an e-mail back stating they never had any re-terminated tail lights and the website incorrect. It guess it must be going on well over a year that it's wrong! Anyway, they shipped the tail light before I could cancel it so any instructions or tips are greatly appreciated as embark on my new electronic adventure : D | ||
| Syonyk |
"Figure out which is positive and which is negative, set up the right barrel connectors, install"? You'll still have a ground, a running light +12v, and a brake +12v. Just sort out which is which, and wire accordingly. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Cut the end off the '10 light. Take out your OEM light and look at the connector. I believe the light has male spade connectors (can't remember if they're M or F on the light). Crimp the same connectors on the new light's wires. I soldered mine after crimping, as overkill. You now have a new light, with three spade connectors on it. I want to say red is brake, yellow is run, and black is ground...but that's all from memory. Note: I checked my manual - orange with white stripe is the taillight; red with yellow stripe is brake light; black is ground. I believe you can match the colors from the light to the bike, and just stick the spades into the factory light connector on the bike harness. I filled the connector with RTV silicone after inserting the spades, to "glue" them in place. No issues in 2 years. Simple stuff to do. If you get a bright running light and no brake light, swap the orange and red wires. If you get no lights at all, you have the ground in the wrong place (LED's are polarity-sensitive and won't work if they're wired "backwards"). | ||
| Dosmie |
Order a 2010 LED model from Al, and it just plugs right into what is there. 10 minute swap. +++++ | ||
| Avc8130 |
Don't make this more complicated than it is. Get the 2010 tail light. Go to the local autoparts store and get spade connectors. Cut off the stock 2010 connector and crimp/solder on spade connectors to each individual wire. Then plug them in matching the current factory color code. Simple. | ||
| Timebandit |
you might not even need to modify the device. you could just create a set of short jumper wires with the right terminals on each end. | ||
| Ridegreen2oo |
To do it right you need to modify it. I did it in about 5 minutes. If you can crimp a spade connector you can do it. | ||
| Captjoe |
I would have ordered from Al, but the EBR website clearly stated that they had some already built. You can see how easy it is to confuse the wording: "LED taillight mounts in the stock location. This is a direct replacement taillight for 2010 XB and 1125 models. All other model year bikes are equipped with different mating connector(s) and will require reterminating the wires for your specific bike. We have a limited supply of these from building race bikes. Though new, these are sold as a used part without warranty." The "We have a limited supply of these from building race bikes." has to be read really carefully as it's obviously difficult to understand. I totally mistook it for they have some available. Anyway, it is what it is. It doesn't look like it will be difficult to adapt so it's not a big deal. | ||
| Timebandit |
It's possible that the information may have been correct at one time, but is incorrect now. Part of the problem is that Mike is so busy that he doesn't spend a lot of time focusing on the web site, so it might contain errors related to stale data. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't read that as "we have some that are re-terminated", just that "we have some of these direct replacement 2010 lights left over from building race bikes" (which don't have lights at all, so why would they be re-terminated?). I don't think the data is stale at all. Just misinterpreted. | ||
| Timebandit |
I remember when EBR was selling 2010 LED tail lamps that were take-offs from 2010 1125 that got converted to race bikes. The 1125 had come with the LED lamps, and they needed to be removed for race duty. So EBR sold them as take-offs. I wasn't paying much attention to the "re-termination" subject, but I do know why the web site is chronically out of date in some areas. To me, the type of connection terminals is a non-issue. If you get an LED lamp, just deal with what it's got and convert it by doing whatever it takes to make it work. This wiring isn't rocket science. | ||
| Captjoe |
Just received the tail light and after looking at it, I think the way to go is to try and change the bike's connector to be inline with the lamps connector instead re-terminating the lamp's side. Anyone tried it this way? | ||
| Avc8130 |
Captjoe, I have no clue what you are talking about. Cut the darn ends off the 2010 unit. Crimp on spades and get on with life. Anything else is just overcomplicated the situation. ac | ||
| Froggy |
I'm with AC on this, snip the connector off the light, spade on 3 connectors and you are done. Modifying the bike will require you to get an entirely different connector, and you make it a pain to go back to stock if you ever change your mind/sell the bike. | ||
| Dannybuell |
This is the funniest thread ever! edit: removed stars (Message edited by dannybuell on February 09, 2012) | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Very funny...took all of ten minuites to crimp on my spades,no problem | ||
| Captjoe |
Very good, however, knowledge is acquired, not born with. As I've never done it and since I haven't taken apart the tail light yet as the bike is in storage, I thought I'd ask some of the folks that have already done it. Wasn't really attempting to be humorous, but hey, have a chuckle, it's free. | ||
| Dannybuell |
I was convinced you were pulling some legs. I apologize. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
me too.no offence buddy | ||
| Ridegreen2oo |
If you aren't comfortable with electrical connections, I would recommend finding a friend to help. Last thing you need to happen is have your brakelight not work when a car is riding your ass. I'll suck it up and ask a friend to come over help over if I'm not confident in my ability. | ||
| Captjoe |
No offense taken. Actually, reading back through the post, it is kind of funny  | ||
| Froggy |
Capt, trust me this is among the easier things to do to the bike. Tail light removal is easy, there are two Philip head screws in the light, remove them and the light practically falls out, unplug the connector to remove the stock light assembly. There really isn't much to say about crimping on spade connectors on the new light. Just cut the connector off, use run of the mill spades and crimping tool, both available at Radioshack or a hardware store. Hardest part will be installing the new tail light, and all you have to do is plug in the 3 connectors into the connector on the bike. Even if you are blind, it is only 3 wires and thats only a few possible combinations. To test, turn the key to on, the light should come on, then press the brake to make sure it gets brighter. If none the above happen, switch the wires around till you get it. Put the two screws back in, and you are done.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Strip the ends of the wires before you crimp the spades on, and crimp the spades to bare metal. As noted above, I always solder in addition to crimping. | ||
| Dannybuell |
too much solder can increase resistance. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ummmmm.....HUH???? Explain that one please. I've been doing component-level repairs for years and this is the first I've ever heard of more conductive material on a connection ADDING resistance to a circuit... | ||
| Alter1 |
Wow. | ||
| Zac4mac |
The only way I see "too much solder can increase resistance" is if you have a tendency to "blob solder". In that case you are making a lot of "cold joints" which definitely have more resistance, often to the point of no contact(open-circuit). The biggest thing to watch out for is "wicking". As you heat the joint, the solder will wick up the wire. Where it stops, there will be a spot prone to cracking under flex. Always tin your connectors and wire using as little heat as possible. Crimp the connector, then "sweat" the connector to the wire quickly. Stiff heat shrink will mitigate the flex at the connection. Z | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Its an led tail light, not a computer. Led takes almost no amperage to work. Solder, crimp, black tape, shrink wrap or whatever you choose will all work fine. Dont be afraid to tackle this as anyone with nearly any skill level could do it. | ||
| Zac4mac |
True Rpm4x4 - the higher the current, the more need for a secure connection. Realistically, if you stripped and twisted wires with spades on, then used some... shudder... black tape it would work well for years. Z | ||
| Ratbuell |
c'mon Zack...twist-n-tape is asking for loose connections, corrosion, and shorts. You know better than that!  Some consider it overkill, but everything on my bikes is twisted, tinned, crimped, soldered, and heat-shrinked. Shrank? Shrunk? whatever... Haven't had to re-do anything yet. |
