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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through April 02, 2012 » P0087 + B1005 Errors « Previous Next »

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Zecca
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Low fuel pressure?

what is the correct pressure?
my shows 399~405kpa
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Zecca
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

*Check and fuell lights always on
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That pressure looks good.
IIRC mine was doing that when the fuel level sensor went bad.
You can:
1) ignore it
2) replace the fuel pump/sensor assembly
3) tie in a small trimpot across pins 1-4 on fuel pump connector(4-pin plug tie-rapped to the crossbar under the rider seat) and lower the resistance back in range.

Zack
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Zecca
Posted on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

zac, do you have photos??

I don't understand very well
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 07:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zecca
CEL(check engine light) and LFL(Low fuel light) together with B1005 DTC means(Most likely) your fuel level sensor's resistance(it is a thermistor) has drifted out of range.
Again most likely, on the high side. Mine was at 2200 Ohms and throwing a code when I had my pump replaced on warranty.

If you measure across pins 1(A) and 4(D), a good sensor will be 800-1400 Ohms. Anything outside that range will throw a code.
You can lower a resistance by adding a parallel path.
So if you wire in an adjustable resistor in parallel(across pins A-D) you can bring the sensor back in range.
The lights and the DTC go away.

Or you can replace the fuel pump.

Or ignore them, they do not change the way the bike runs.

Sorry, no pix...

Zack
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zecca:

You want to get something like this and then either "shrink-wrap" it or "pot" it to hold the proper ohmic value that you dial in. This is a sealed unit, so moisture should not be an issue for this device. Also, it's a metal foil trimmer potentiometer, which will keep the ohmic value you selected within tolerance. One other thing, this potentiometer tolerance is +-5%, so virtually drift free.

Here is the link to give you an idea of what Zac was talking about. You will have to solder on some wires. ZAC can you tell Zecca again what to do from here?

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/3345P-1-2 02/3345P-202-ND/85043
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Zecca
Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

trimpot is a resistor?
sorry it's hard for me to understand technical terms
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was getting the same error codes and P0132, Frt O2 Sys Err, with the LFL & CEL staying on for about 20 miles. The thing that sucks in my case was that the LFL gradually stopped working resulting in me running out of gas on the freeway - 3 separate times over a 6 month period! The last time was when I found out I can go 250 miles and it'll then take exactly 5.0 gallons.

Not disputing anything said in this thread, I did some initial troubleshooting steps from the manual which ended with "Replace fuel pump." So off to the dealer for a warranty fix and to see if they concur with my findings. Their troubleshooting recommended replacing the Instrument Cluster. Anyway, I hope that works for me.

If I didn't have the extended warranty, I'd likely get into it and go the route Zac detailed above if conditions matched. Thanks for the info.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zecca - yes, trimpot,pot, potentiometer are names for a variable resistor.

The sensor is a thermistor, a semiconductor device like a transistor that changes resistance with temperature.

To make it easier to follow - my sensor when new had a range of 800-1400 Ohms that covered the "working temperature" of the bike as spec'd.
Over time, its range drifted up. When replaced, the range was on the order of 1500-2500 and showed 2200 at 40 dF.
By placing a trimpot in parallel, across pins A/D you will lower the resistance by the formula Rtotal = R1*R2/R1+R2

I've been on this problem like a chicken on a june-bug since it surfaced.
There are TWO failure modes to get the CEL/LFL combo, each with its own solution.

1) LFL/CEL @ startup, both go out shortly after reaching OpTemp(151 dF) - bad IC firmware - replace IC.Historic DTC is causing the CEL.

2) LFL/CEL on reaching OpTemp, may or may not go out, depending on ambient temp. Sensor out of range - replace fuel pump/sensor ass'y.
Real-time error causing DTC.
Theoretically fixable with a parallel trimpot if no pump issues.

Z
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will say this also

My IC is a rev 6.1 and 6.2 is the current one. 7.1 IIRC for 2010
I have seen a couple of CEL/LFL lately in the "mode 1" above.
I am sure that, as this sensor drifts up , the error will move to "mode 2" at some point.

I have a new fuel pump Ass'y in my office, but unless I see more issues with pressure, I will try my own idea...
Loretta was showing weak pressure at key-on/motor-off and I was afraid the pump was dying.
She's been showing good pressure tho lately. <fingers-crossed>

Z

NOTE - This subject has been broached several times, so make sure any "mode" is referenced locally.
Today's Mode 1 may be yesterday's Mode 2.
: )

(Message edited by zac4mac on March 28, 2012)
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