| Author | Message | ||
     Pmjolly |
OK, I am about to go out in the garage and take my forks apart to change the oil and check everything for wear. I bought a fork servicing tool kit from Traxion Dynamics. http://www.traxxion.com/ForkServiceToolKit.aspx I am not too sure what I am getting into, but certainly can follow instructions and have the service manual. I guess I will figure out what each tool is for. Just glancing at the manual, it looks like you set the oil level by measuring the height of the oil in the tubes? What is the syringe and tube for? They say it is for measuring the oil. I don't get it. Also, there is a bleeding tool. Don't the forks bleed themselves when you move them through full travel? I bought two full sets of each wear item from American Sportsbike. I also got seal driver tools from Al. I have seals and bushings. I can rebuild both my forks twice. I have spare parts in case I screw up. | ||
| Stirz007 |
The service manual will walk you through the procedure. The two key issues will be making sure you purge all the air out of the damper assembly before topping off oil. Then, you set the oil levels using the syringe - there should be a ring that clamps onto the 'needle'. Set the distance from the ring to end of needle to match recommended "free air space". The syringe draws fluid out down to the end of the needle, thus resulting in an accurate air space. The fork tubes need to be vertical when you do this. Looking at the tool you have the brass piece appears to be for pumping the damper to purge air. The ring sets at the top of the tube. The grey slotted piece above the brass part sets across the ring. The thumbscrew on the needle is used to set the depth below top of tube. Use the syringe to draw out fluid until you pull air. | ||
| Pmjolly |
The first fork came apart easily. I took a break to grab a bite to eat and check for any advice. I am going to go ahead and replace the oil seal and dust seal as there are small cracks in the dust seal. The oil that came out looked clean. Thanks for the advice. I won't fully understand until I dive in and get my hands on it. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Well, crud. The original oil seal in my first fork was either installed incorrectly, or there is a typo in the 2008 service manual. The manual tells me to install the new oil seal with the spring facing the dust seal. The original was installed with the spring facing AWAY from the dust seal. Hmmmmmm. I guess I will take the other fork apart now, and install my seal however that one is? Dang it. I hate when things don't go as planned. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Oh, and the manual says to put the seal on the slider before pressing it into the outer tube. Is that right? | ||
| Pmjolly |
The second fork is the same way. It must be a typo in the 2008 service manual.Hmmm. | ||
| Jdugger |
I love working on bikes, but I always take my forks to a suspension guy. Let me know next time you are due and I'll give you a couple of names of local guys that do good work and don't over-charge. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Thanks Jim. I have the first set of seals installed. The seal driver tool from American Sportsbike worked well. Thanks, Al. I did place it all on the slider tube before pressing the seal in. It keeps it all straight. The service manual says to keep the tighter wound end of the spring towards the bottom of the forks. My springs are wound the same on each end. I swear. I measured the coils per inch, and the diameter is the same too. Hmmmm. I kept everything straight, so it will go back the way it was. I'm just making observations as I go. Maybe they changed springs at some point. Hmmmm. | ||
| Jdugger |
Suspension is black art. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Pmjolly, what oil weight did you use? | ||
| Pmjolly |
Done. Both forks have new seals and fresh oil. I even found the clicking noise I have been chasing for a while. It was the right side fork damper assembly. Everything looked good upon inspection, but it still clicked when put back together. I guess it is just another little quirk. I don't think it hurts anything. Now to put the front end back on before dinner! | ||
| Pmjolly |
Rogue, I went back with the exact same oil that was in it to begin with. I believe it is Type E hydraulic fork oil. It's the Harley brand. I don't know what weight it is. I am getting ready for a trip to Dragon V in Tennessee in a few weeks. I didn't want to change the oil to a different type when I have my settings where I like them. New oil or a different weight might change my settings. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Pmjolly, there are springs that are straight wind IIRC. Mine are the progressives(at least in my Uly) and you can't miss which is the tight end... Type E is HD standard and is 7.5 - 10 or 10-15W I forget. They have a heavier but no lighter, Bel-Ray has a bunch, so does Amsoil I think. Z | ||
| Redcrrider |
My springs didn't have a tightly wound side either or I sure as hell could not tell. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
When I had mine done, the fork oil was 7.5wt but filled too much so the ride was way too harsh. I had it changed to 5wt and the fluid level set at Buell's recommendation (which I believe is 94mm). The ride improved dramatically. Still firm but not harsh any more. | ||
| Redcrrider |
The manual recommends 94mm, EBR has recommended as little as 117-125mm for light weight riders. |
