| Author | Message | ||
     Rogue_biker |
I'm about to do the 2nd Valve inspection for my '08 1125R (the 1st one done by dealer). What do you guys recommend for the best Valve inspection feeler gauges to do this job and where can I get it? Hopefully Sears and/or Pep Boys? | ||
| Craigsmoney |
Yeah for sure, those two will have what you are looking for. I recommend metric ones, that go to .5mm or smaller intervals. Good luck! The process isn't that hard, just time consuming. Wait until you find out what size of shims you need, and buy them. I had to replace almost all of mine, but only needed 3 sizes. That being said, I have some extra's and might be able to send you what you need, if they are the same size. Cheers | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Thanks Craig. It's my first time doing this. I have the heat shields from American Sport Bike ready to install, all the gaskets I need, and I believe all the tools ('cept for the valve feeler gauges). It's going to be an adventure and a learning experience. I will probably take about 2-3 weeks to finish since I plan to just take my time and do it on Saturdays. My plan is to be as methodical as possible and not rush. It's winter anyway. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
in the old days Snap-on used to sell extra long ones individually ( the length made it easier to grip)- I doubt if Snap-on does it now (you gotta buy a set...) - a tip I learned from the old man was to take a piece of copper pipe/tubing and place the feeler gauge in the tubing then crimp/crush the tubing - drill a hole and pin it with a piece of welding rod (or coat hanger)- the tubing made a nice handle - especially if you were doing tight clearances like on an old CB450 Honda twin...good luck | ||
| Craigsmoney |
I was assuming that you have the shop manual, do you? that is a huge help. Just fallow the steps, but you don't have to take the radiators of the K brackets. Just remove the front mounting bolt. Good luck, and have fun. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I started the job today. Boy howdie! I've spent about 5 hours just removing stuff. I do have the Service manual but some procedures are quite vague. I still can't figure out how to "unclip the fuse box", which seems simple enough but I'm looking at that dang little box and prying and pulling and the sucker won't let go. I was able to remove the front mounting bolts of the K-bracket but I had to unbolt the inner shroud and the left radiator to get to the right K-backet bolt. That was actually easy to do. Tomorrow, I remove the muffler and hopefully rotate the engine...finally. I hope I don't stretch any wires. The adventure continuous! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Rotate VERY slowly, checking wires as you go. Don't forget to disconnect the horn wire. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I just disconnected the muffler. Holy Shit Shirlock! Who the hell designed the mounting system on this monstrosity? Access to the front fasteners are almost impossibly tight! Then there's that captive nut on the left side...WTF? Of course as soon as I got the fastener out the nut fell into some crevice somewhere, never to be seen until I drop the muffler. Even with all the fasteners out the front collector refuses to let go of the headers. Gosh damn! ^%(&^(* I just know it's going to be a REAL biotch to put that thing back on. Maybe it's time for that Drummer exhaust..... I have to say, as much as I love riding my 1125R, this is ridiculous! | ||
| Zac4mac |
My OEM muffler has been hanging on the wall of my garage for at least a couple of years now. Love my Drummer. The nut on the left side WAS easy to get at on the prototype 1125Rs(Summer 2007), but so many complaints of hotfoot came in, they added a larger oil cooler at release(October 2007). Only problem with the new cooler was... the nut was near impossible to reach. I forget the size, 13mm? Anyway, I took a cheap wrench and heated to red and bent it 90 degrees. Another option is a socket on a long(18-24") extension and coming in at it from the right side. I also remember sitting on the garage floor and guiding the can with my feet when re-installing. For feeler-gauges, see if you can find the long, angled ones in the right size range.  Zack Oh yeah, major caveat - DO NOT drop a shim in the motor. If you do, find it even if you have to pull the cam chain cover. I dropped one and after 3 days of searching, found it between the chain and bottom drive gear. (Message edited by zac4mac on February 19, 2012) | ||
| Dennis_c |
Use plenty of rags around valve springs | ||
| Pmjolly |
I'm at the same point Rogue is. This is my first time doing this. Rogue, I think you might want to put the bolts back in the K bracket until you are ready to rotate the engine. The service manual has you remove items to gain access to the front K bracket fastener, but does not have you remove it until you are ready to rotate the motor. They help hold the motor in place. Also, that fuse block was pretty tight, and tough to pull loose. There is a little tab on the side you need to hold out in order to remove the fuse block. If you take the cover off, and look down the side with a light, you will see it. Use a small screwdriver to hold the tab back, then rock the fuse block back and forth while you pull up on it. It will slowly start to move. I spent a day removing parts in preparation for the valve clearance check. I got to the point that I am ready to rotate the engine. I will probably rotate it next weekend. The service manual says to loosen the pinch bolt on the motor mount on both sides. I saw a pinch bolt on the right side, but not the left. Am I missing something? |
