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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through May 19, 2011 » Check your oil!!!!!!!! « Previous Next »

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Guard_rail
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I didn't post when I went down march 22, 2011.
(I love how she goes down on me...pun intended !-)

I didn't post when I installed new pads from & back.
(30 min front 15 min rear)

I didn't post when I got a paper clip in my rear tire.
(worlds strongest paper clip:-(

But last night my engine light came on. I got scared. I started to panic! She started to feel like $#!@.
I made it home and said first thing in the morning I'm checking her oil. Cold first then hot.

Well there was no need to do hot because cold was so low there was no need to wipe the dip stick.

Oh yeah!!! Now I remember!! Motorcycles burn oil and I should check that oil level every few hundred miles.
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Duphuckincati
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From my experience, the cold check just BARELY gets a touch of oil at the very tip of the stick anyway. Personally I'd just do a complete oil change, dump in three quarts so you know what's in there then do the dipstick check cold and hot so you'll know for sure what the readings are.
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Hairy_cannonball
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Motorcycles don't burn oil. Who told you that?
If your low oil pressure light came on and you continued home you need some serious schooling on how to operate a motor vehicle.
If your Buell is consuming oil you need to have it fixed. You probably need engine work now anyway if you ran with no oil pressure.
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Nukeblue
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just went 2500 miles and lost zero oil
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Nillaice
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

not motorcycles, but motors burn oil. and not all do, just some.

sorry to hear about your bad experience.
agreed; you should check your oil often, and might want to heed the warning lights on your IC
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Guard_rail
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 01:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I clearly wrote my "engine" light came on, the engine icon light that's to the right from the green neutral light. Not a "low oil pressure" light or warning on my screen.
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Nillaice
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 01:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

don't feel too bad, bro. i should also check my oil more often.
both of the times i've added oil was because the valve train sounded louder than normal to me while riding, so i stopped at the next gas station, and checked it out. sure enough; 1/3 quart low.

the cold oil check is part of my pre-ride checklist. i like it better than teh hot cuz it is easily repeatable with consistent results.

so have you figured out what caused the check engine light? checking the oil does not clear them. lolz
you can enter the diagnostics mode on your IC and see recent trouble codes.
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Guard_rail
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did 3 cold checks and 4 hot checks. cold gave me a little more than the drip the night before and hot gave me a little more than that but both were lower than minimum. So I added 3 oz ran it again and the light went off after 2min. I added another 3 oz and went to church this morning. I'll ride it in about an hour and see how it looks
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Guard_rail
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do you enter diagnostic mode? I forgot!
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Brumbear
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I only know when I am uncertain I drain it and put in new oil then I know for sure sorry but it's all I got.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

enter diag mode by holding down the mode and toggle buttons for 3 seconds and turn the key on.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

when u say the "light" went off I hope you don't mean the oil pressure light, because if that light is on for more then few seconds its bad, that light is not oil level but oil pressure, and it you don't have sufficient oil pressure and you keep riding, you can say bye-bye to your engine.
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does low oil pressure trigger the CEL? I didn't think it would. I've had the oil pressure light come on briefly during hard braking but the CEL never lit. Adding about 1/4 quart of oil resolved the oil light under braking. Forget the manual, just pour in 3 quarts when doing an oil and filter change and you should have an oil pressure light issues.
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Guard_rail
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. I road it for 10 mins and it ain't the oil. Next thing to check is coolant level.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guard rail -
If the CEL set, there's a historic DTC.
Go into Diag Mode and see what caused it.

THEN form a solution.

Z
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Guard_rail
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah but I forgot to mention when I got the CEL I also got a low fuel light at the sametime. But I have 2.5 gallons on her. So my last guess is the fuel pump.
I will enter the diagnostic mode tonight
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Nillaice
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

don't forget tire pressure. and the rest of your pre-ride checklist
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Nillaice
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1) Make sure bike is off
2) Hold down both Mode & Toggle Buttons
3) Turn bike on

You are now in Diagnostic mode
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Brumbear
Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

when it's below 50 degrees that will happen to most of them the CEL and low fuel light but I haven't heard of this happening in warm weather?
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S21125r
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The LFL and CEL issue has been posted a few times on here by Zac and Anony. The Cliff notes that I have on the subject is that if they come on it when you first start the bike cold, but go out when fully warmed then it's a software bug in the IP. If they come on at various times while at operating temperature then it's the fuel sender/thermistor attached to the fuel pump. Codes out diag mode would confirm - probably be a "lowfuel sys err". If it's one of those two conditions then it's more of a nuisance, but the dealer should be able to diagnose and fix fairly easily. Just do a search for "CEL and LFL" on this forum, print out the hits from Anony and Zac and take to your dealer for discussion.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it's the CEL/LFL combo, you should see a B1005, and seems like another, can't remember.
If that's all it is, your bike should NOT have run ANY different before or after.

I have yet to see a DTC that puts the bike in a "limp home" mode. Just information to aid in troubleshooting.

S21125r has a good synopsis of the issue, pull your codes and post or PM me.

Zack
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Mtnbueller
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was just the other day thinking that I should check my oil when my oil light came on. : ( got home to see oil on the exhaust......uh oh. Its under warranty, so I towed it to the shop to see what the damage was. Fast forward two days, shop warns me to not overfill oil, breather hose fell off and oil found its way out. Advised them I haven't added a drop since they last had it, they didn't charge me anything. : )
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hot check procedure followed to THE LETTER is the ONLY reliable oil-level check.
Any deviation and you won't see diddly on the dipstick.
No shortcuts allowed.

I add 3 qts at each service, after dumping out 3 qts.

Moral of this whole story should be - if you are going to work on your own bike/machine, do it right or pay someone else to do it.
Systematic troubleshooting and repair should NOT be guesswork.

Verify there IS a problem/malfunction.
Identify the problem.
Find the faulty component by cutting the system in half at each step and seeing which half is malfunctioning.

It is an iterative process that really works.

After you have diagnosed/repaired the same problem several times you can skip some steps. Never on "the first date".

Happy fixing
Z
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Guard_rail
Posted on Tuesday, May 17, 2011 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dealer just called............it's....it's........it's the instrument cluster. It's went bad. There's only one left and it's in Cali. The rest are on back order until further notice, and there trying to get it over night.
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