| Author | Message | ||
     Mountainstorm |
Hey guys. I have bearings and a spacer on the way from American Sport Bike. I could use some pointers on how to best remove them and replace them without damage. Thanks. | ||
| Chameleon |
Got a service manual? | ||
| Mechanicsn |
Reply deleted (Message edited by Mechanicsn on September 14, 2010) | ||
| Freight_dog |
Potentialy snarky comments aside, I was wondering the same thing and I DO have a service manual. Specifically, MUST I get the specific tools called for in the manual, or is there and alternative method for pulling the old and pressing in the new bearings? (Message edited by Freight_dog on September 14, 2010) | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
You certainly need the H/D bearing removal kit for seating the bearings to avoid damage to the bearings. Alternative is to place the rim (w/o tire of course) in the oven and heat it to about 300 degrees F and drop in the chilled bearing. Expansion & shrinkage should create enough clearance to allow you to drop the bearings in w/o any tool. I've done this for my RC51 slipper clutch. Much more difficult for wheel though. I ended up buying H/D bearing removal tool for my wheels. | ||
| Smoke |
heat gun, slide hammer for removal. have to breakdown the loctite with the heat. press and 2 pushing discs slightly smaller than the bearing for install. disc needs to push on the outer race and not get stuck in the hub. i also chill the bearings and warm the wheel center again with the heat gun before installation. good luck. tim | ||
| Hughlysses |
This is a re-post of some info Al Lighton provided regarding rear wheel bearings in the Uly (Big, Bad & Dirty) forum last year. 2006-2009 Ulys had quite a few rear bearing failures (same bearings as the 2008-2009 1125). Improved bearings were introduced in 2009 and then a new 3-bearing wheel in 2010. Since you're going to install bearings yourself, pay particular attention to #3 regarding bearing installation: Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2009 - 10:30 pm: I have spoken with folks at Buell that are quite knowledgeable on all of this, and can provide the following info. 1) The original FAG bearings (black) [comment- used on early XB's] were replaced by NTN bearings that had better seals and less hygroscopic grease. The new KBC bearings have yet again better (stiffer) seals and still better grease. They also have a better lines of communication into the bearing supplier themselves. Bottom line, the change to the bearing isn't just some cost cutting move..they ARE better. 2) The design of the wheel shoulders and internal spacer tube are such that in the worst case tolerance stackup of NEW wheels, bearings, and spacer tubes, the inner race on the bearing OPPOSITE the caliper/rotor will be seated against the inner spacer with just less than 0.5mm clearance between the rear wheel shoulder and the outer race, and just less than 0.25mm on the front wheel. All of this assumes that the bearings are installed correctly (rotor side bearing seated in wheel, spacer installed, opposite bearing installed until inner race seats against spacer tube). What this means is that IF the bearings are installed correctly, AND the spacer tube is not damaged, overtorquing the axle slightly shouldn't cause an inelastic deformation of the spacer tube. If Mongo gets a hold of it and gets brutal with the breaker bar during installation, all bets are off. 3) The bearing installation tool is designed to push on BOTH the inner and outer races in a plane. During installation of the opposite rotor side bearing, if the installation forces are applied to EITHER, but not both, of the races, you can potentially damage that bearing. If you use the old "socket on the outer race with a hammer" method, you'll probably ruin that, and possibly both bearings. You'll likely coin the bearing races, and might damage the spacer, if you seat the outer race against the wheel shoulder on that side. And regardless of the potential bearing damage, if you walk that bearing in which is easy to do with the hammer method, your interference fit of the outer race into the wheel may be compromised. Buell doesn't utilize thermal methods (i.e., hot wheel, cold bearing) for installation, they rely on process control and proper tooling. 4) When a bearing goes more than a little bad, it is possible and likely that the end of the spacer tube can be damaged. In this case, the margins afforded by the design as described in 2) above can be affected. Some bearing removal tools can also damage the ends of the spacer. So inspect that spacer tube with each bearing change. 5) Related to 4, future service manuals may provide for an inspection dimension on that spacer tube. But it isn't there now, so here are the nominals: Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch Hopefully this is helpful info. Al | ||
| Mountainstorm |
No way am I attempting that procedure  Thanks for the heads up. Looks like I'll be taking the wheel to the dealer. | ||
| Freight_dog |
THATS what I am talking about. Thanks guys! |
