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Howworkclutch
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can crack open the throttle very very carefully and it will suddenly jump 2k RPM. Then it starts hunting. My friend is a racer and he played with it. He shrugged, said he didn't know, and told me he isn't sure he could ride it as it is.
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why are you trying to hold 3k?

You will find widely varying opinions on this subject, but I find the bike to be very smooth and predictable when operated mostly between 5k and 7k RPMs, with operating "around 6" as your primary target.

I assure you, if your racer friend is really a racer, he's not going to be spending anytime at 3k except in the pits.
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T_man
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Erik Buell Racing race Ecm cures that problem. If you don't want to go that route - throwing some more fuel (20%) from the 2k -4k range helps quite a bit too. If you don't have the capability to do either - get the latest flash and live with it, there's naught you can do other than skipping the 3k range for crusing.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

with operating "around 6" as your primary target.




That means gears 3 through 6 are useless on the street.


You should be able to hold it at 3000 RPM fine. Make sure you have the latest ECM calibration. You can also swap in an Erik Buell Racing Race ECM too.
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Eweaver
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you tried resetting the TPS?
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> That means gears 3 through 6 are useless on the street.

So?

(You are slightly overstating it -- I generally use a lot of 3rd and some 4th in the canyons.)
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Milleniumx1
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 10:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reset the TPS and find out what flash version you are running. These bikes will run fine at 3K ... I have a number of school zones around me, so I've had a few opportunities to try it.
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Howworkclutch
Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS reset done. I'm not sure which flash its running but I can find out.

I'll try again to describe the behavior:
The bike idles kinda high. 1500 or so.
When I slowly open the throttle, it begins to climb, and then suddenly jumps to 4k. Backing off really gentle causes it to immediately fall back to idle.

I have to make left/right turns from stop signs so it would be really nice if I could modulate the go control with a bit of precision.
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Eweaver
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 02:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had this before.

Does your throttle have a lot of free play in it? I adjusted the throttle cables and reset the tps, then mine worked like a charm.

(Message edited by eweaver on June 08, 2010)
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Trafford
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My bike will run at 1300 (idle)in first gear and just above that in second without clutch. It is good at 2000 in the middle gears and will pull without stutter from 2500 in 6th gear. There is no surging at all at a steady 3000 (or anywhere above). At a steady 4900 there is a slight vibration band that smoothes out above 5000. I use a personally modified Erik Buell Racing pump fuel race ECM.

(Message edited by trafford on June 08, 2010)

(Message edited by trafford on June 08, 2010)
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Redbat
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure the crankcase breather hose is not blocking the throttle linkage. Or anything else either.
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Lucky_jim
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought that was normal unless you're using an aftermarket ECM. My bike is pretty unsteady at low Rpm as well. Not sure if it does the same thing as you describe, though.

(Message edited by Lucky_jim on June 08, 2010)
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This does sound like normal behavior. If you have the most recent flash, it should be better, but not perfect. Get an E B R ECM or some other aftermarket tune if you want to smooth out low RPM operation.
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Clk92vette
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I picked my ’08 R up on St. Patrick’s Day and have logged almost 2000 miles on the odometer since. The high percentage of my riding is comprised of highway and rural roads with a little stop and go. My bike is still bone stock. Idle is just under 1500 RPM, and I try not to lug it below 3k. I can run anywhere between idle and 4k without any significant surging issues, she just isn’t happy under 3k.
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Hogzilla
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

3000 should be fine, it gets a big clunky under that though. For me cruising at 3500 to 4000 feels nice and smooth. And I can get decent mileage. Really running it is great over 6 though.

(Message edited by hogzilla on June 08, 2010)
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Milleniumx1
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What How is describing is not normal, factory ECM or not. I've only had 131 and the newer 142 on my '09R and neither did what he's describing. The previous '09 versions weren't as smooth down low as the latest flash, but I can't imagine earlier '09 versions did what he's describing. I'm awaiting an Erik Buell Racing unit myself, but not because I was displeased with my factory flash. It was actually quite good.

Mike
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Dirty_john
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yep the 142 flash on the 09 cured nearly all of the issues, but with the Erik Buell Racing ECM I can rest easy that the engine is not likely to run lean and cause long term damage with a less restrictive exhaust without CAT etc.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik Buell Racing pump gas cr: the bike is much less nervous and 3000 rpm is still where the bike begins to be happy. Less than that just does not work for a big boy like me.

My first 500 miles with the Erik Buell Racing ECM is the IAC (idle air control) diesels rather than the stock sharp decelleration. When it diesels up to the turn I am braking against the motor so I pull in the clutch and continue using my front brake.

I prefer a setup where engine compression assists in braking. I understand Erik Buell Racing can address the IAC issue at time of purchase or sending it back for a reflash.
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Howworkclutch
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Although low-rpm drivability requires a lot of attention in lower gears, I'm actually describing the engines behavior out of gear. You can not sneak up on 3k in the garage. RPM's skyrocket with the smallest about of throttle. I'm wondering if there is an leak around the intake.

The bikes speed is very difficult to modulate. Once under load its controllable but there is some surging even at steady input.
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Trafford
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It sounds like its the IAC. Its designed to function in a range of ways and situations. For example the revs rise as the clutch is let out. Also it operates in different ways in gar/in neutral/ clutch in /out etc. All the parameters are listed in the ecm data. That how I adjusted the idle and engine braking in mine.
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Ron_luning
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Because the bike tends to buck and surge below 3000 rpm, I checked out the throttle response in the garage a few months ago. Basically my bike can be running at idle... then I can not quite twist the throttle but more like apply pressure to open it a tiny bit...then the rpm will raise pretty smoothly until around 2000...then an instantaneous spike to 3000. It does it every time. So that is basically why anywhere in the 2000-3000 rpm range it surges and bucks like crazy. I have the latest ECU flash.

Since that rpm range equates to typical parking lot and slow speeds (that are necessary on public roads), I tend to have to use the clutch to maintain control instead of the throttle.
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Eweaver
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is not normal behavior. If you are living with this, and writing it of as "its what the bike does", it is your loss.

Please check your throttle cable adjustment and reset the TPS.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ron_luning - FWIW I have the same experience. Did you see the throttle tube thread. That might be a part of it. IDK.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/562758.html?1273722893
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Ron_luning
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danny, I did see that thread. A snail-shell tube (or whatever you call it) will likely help to fix any sudden rpm changes caused by bumps being transmitted to the rider's wrist. I don't think it will really change the lightswitch rpm jump described above at all though...more like mask it.
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Ron_luning
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just to be clear, my bike runs fine at 3-3.5K rpm. It is only in the 2-3K range that there is a problem.
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Chevycummins
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My bike does this a little also, might be the IAC motor opening up some and letting in additional air. The IAC will do this so when you let off the throttle it will not just stall out.
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Trafford
Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

its easy to adjust out with ecmread and tunerpro
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Howworkclutch
Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a cable and both applications. What I lack is a support network. I've tried emailing the guy who sold me the cable but he doesn't respond.

I can edit values and all that but I don't have any idea which direction to go. I thought MLV's VE Analyzer sounded like the ticket, but there is no way to make MLV read more than 16 RPM columns and I am not sure if the data points can be divided.

So in the end I have to disagree. ecmread and tunerpro wont fix any problems.
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Drawkward
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clutch...have you searched on the forums for a How To tuning guide for ecmread and tunerpro? It's out there man...and it's pretty extensive. PM me if you want the details.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2010 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On my 08, there's a big jump in timing at around 2k, makes it real hard to hold at 2k with no load.
In gear, it holds 2k just fine.
Maybe your map jumps at 3k, have a look w/ ECMSpy or ECM Read.

Z
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