| Author |
Message |
    
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 11:05 pm: | 
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That's the whole reason I've been reticent to do a Race ECM dyno run.
Dunno and really don't care if I got 15 more HP on the top end, the bike "just runs right" now.
Thank You E. B. R. for this amazing bike!!!!
Z |
Avalaugh
| | Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 04:15 am: |
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I think everybody want a before and after dyno comparison, not for peak gains, but to see how/where the torque curve has changed. |
Curve_carver
| | Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 12:23 pm: |
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I took delivery of a used 09 r and am looking at buying a race ECM. I have the latest stator upgrade . I am wondering if the ebr ECM will work with the upgrade? I'm in the market for a pipe as well. |
Jules
| | Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 02:32 pm: |
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Yes it is programmed for the upgraded harness.. |
Pizzaboy
| | Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 05:18 pm: |
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if im running a drummer exhaust and K&N filter, should i go with the one tuned for that HMF pipe or just the pump gas one???
it looks like you cant go wrong for the price!! |
Jules
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 06:45 am: |
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That's a good question. I was in the same quandry as i have a Barker exhaust and K&N. I went with the "vanilla" pump gas ecm as it says in the description that it's for race pipes..
I put everything in the comments field too so if the other one is a better option I am sure they'll send that instead, I have great confidence in the team there  |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 11:24 am: |
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I asked E.B.Are. tech about it and they agreed that the plain 'ole pump gas ECM works best for the Barker's, and I concur. Runs absolutely butter smooth.
I recently noticed yesterday (really hot, probably 100ºF+ on the tarmac) that I'm still getting some closed throttle decel popping in the exhaust. I was rushed when I installed the Barker's and only used one (front cylinder header) stock exhaust gasket and no sealing paste ... you think I have a leak at the collector?
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on June 01, 2010) |
Blackstripes
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 01:29 pm: |
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Mine has some popping too, its totally different than before though, its hard to explain but its a lot deeper and more spread out in time. I am gonna check everything around, and maybe use some sealing paste. What do you mean by "exhaust bushing"? |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 01:33 pm: |
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Same here ... much different sound than before the ECM install. MUCH less frequent but still there nonetheless. The stock exhaust utilizes two exhaust gaskets (sorry about that ... I said "bushings" incorrectly in my above post. Fixed it) that are used at the collector/muffler junction. I'm not sure if they are to be reused when installing the Barker's, I just remember one popped out when I took the stock exhaust off thinking there was only one. So I left it out when I put the Barker's on ... the other must've been stuck up in the collector bc it wasn't in the stock muffler.
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/18014.html |
Blackstripes
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 03:23 pm: |
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That's interesting, I didn't reuse the gaskets! Number one, I had to destroy one because it got TOTALLY welded with the stock exhaust, and number two, because it barely fits without the gasket, the stock gaskets are really thick!! The Barker went all the way in until the openings disappeared and then with the clamps I thought it was enough. ugh. |
Jules
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 04:08 pm: |
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I never used the gaskets on my install either, i wanted to slide the pipe as far up the header as possible.. |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 05:03 pm: |
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Okay that sounds good to me. I was trying to figure on how the gaskets would install anyways leaving enough room for the collector to slide all the way up. Guess that's my answer.
I'll just have to take the Barker's off sometime this summer and reinstall using some high temp exhaust seal. |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 07:41 pm: |
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Ok, I am thinking about the Race ECM. My bike has stock air filter and the Drummer w/DB killer. So, in terms to Race ECMs, which should I choose.
I want to keep my engine breaking as is. I want my O2 sensors to stay in use. I'm tempted to have the AFVs be adjusted by the O2 sensors, though I'm on the fence. I want my BAS to stay in use. Can't think of anything else. |
Crogers72
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 08:00 pm: |
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jeepin, if you do seal your exhaust with high temp silicone, be sure it is compatible with O2 sensors. Some silicone sealants can destroy sensors. |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 08:15 pm: |
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Thanks for the heads up Crogers -- any suggestions for a good brand or specific silicone paste? Never used it on other bikes but if it'll seal everything up nice it's worth a shot. |
Pdawg1970
| | Posted on Saturday, June 12, 2010 - 02:12 am: |
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just got the upgrade harness done (not a new stator as initially promised).
as soon as i got it home i grabbed the box of goodies from my bedroom & headed to my shop.
after what seemed like FOREVER, it was all over but the smiling....
HMF Race ECM
HMF pipe
K&N
De-noid & resistor
re-routed the crank breather (out the end of the plate.....WICKED COOL 'whiffs' of steam)
this is what my diagnostic said:
Battery 11.8 (took a while programming & did the TPS reset 3x...just in case but when its running it says 12.8 at idle)
coolant 24.5
coolant voltage 3.4
Air temp 19.0
Air temp voltage 3.9
TPS percent 2.0 @ idle 100% @ WOT
TPS voltage 0.6
clutch state 0
V speed state 1
Map KPA 100.0
Map voltage 4.0
I A C sts (sp?) 163
Fuel KPA 424
Fuel voltage 2.9
Frt 02 voltage 0.4
Rear 02 voltage 0.4
Tipover voltage 1.3
Side stand voltage 5.0
F adapt fuel 100.0
R adapt fuel 100.0
Starter RLY state 1
Aux power state 0
SW 6.1
CAL 1.0
sound about rite????
WOW WHAT A DIFFERENT BIKE MY 1125R HAS BECOME! (caps for a reason!)
after my first ride these are some observations i have made:
smooth low-end RPM, very little engine breaking (hard to get used to), it seems to take longer to settle to idle (idle is roughly 1400 (a bit bouncy), it just wants to be opened up constantly (not a bad thing!) and one MAJOR change i noticed is that it doesn't have the CT COLD flashing....at all (is that good???)i also noticed the speedo needle flashing at around 5000 when it wasn't to full operating temp (i do know thats a good thing).
i can hardly wait to put the leathers on & take my 'NEW' beast for a REAL RIDE!
a big thanks to everyone here who posts the very useful information that helped get me thru all my upgrades:
THANK-YOU!! |
