| Author | Message | ||
     Dktechguy112 |
I know many of you have been helping me out lately. As many of you know, my bike has a dent in the frame. I wanted to get it welded, but the more i look into it, the more scared i am, ebr confirmed that there is a sealant on the inside of the frame, and that the frame is sealed from the distributor, so they can't get any sealant. I talked to ebr, and they offered to sell me a frame at a very good price, and i am very inclined to buy it, but i have never changed out the frame and i'm not sure that i could do it. I have done a lot of work on this bike since my bro wrecked it, but nothing that required me to drop the engine. Has anyone changed out the frame? If so, are there any special tools that i would need to get that are very expensive? I am trying to spend as little money as possible. Basically, is it possible for a guy with some basic tools and a lot of time to change out the frame? I am only changing out the gas tank part of the frame, the sub frame and swing arm are fine. | ||
| Froggy |
From what I have read on here, frame removal is easier than rotating the engine, so some opt to do that for the valve adjustment checks. I haven't personally tackled anything of that magnitude yet, so I can't give much advice. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
what is rotating the engine? | ||
| Bcrawf68 |
On Tuesday, I purchased a set of manuals for my 11 at ***** for $30 each (elec & mech). PM me and I'll send you the URL. | ||
| 1_mike |
As noted...the frame change ___ should be a snap. Just read the manual and follow normal, careful mechanical practices. I've seen two engine/frame changes (just change) and they were very straight forward. The biggest "help" was two ratchet straps from the ceiling or a support to help lift the frame off of the engine. Mike | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
bcrawf68, i have the service, parts, and elec diag manuals, but thank you for the offer. 1_mike, I thought the engine would have to be dropped out of the bottom before the frame is removed? So you are saying i can leave the engine in and pull the frame off the top? | ||
| D_adams |
Couple of questions. Do you have a lift to put the bike on? If not, do you have a way to strap the bike down to the floor, ie; anchor bolts in the concrete? Two people can lift the frame off the engine, it doesn't weight a lot, easily under 100 lbs I think, if it's stripped. Put the bike on a rear stand, strap it down, support the engine with a jig or frame to keep it in the same position. A floor jack will work, it's just not quite as stable. Another handy thing to have is a welder. Build a frame under the engine to cradle it (4 points to support it) at it's resting height, angle iron will work fine for this part. A cheap mig welder would do just fine, it's only a couple hundred pounds to support at the most once the frame is off. Beyond that, I'd guess aside from fabricating stuff, maybe 5-6 hours to strip it mechanically, the tougher part is the wiring. Leave most of it attached to the engine if possible. Leave the coolant lines attached as well, there's really no reason to open that up. Don't forget to disconnect the battery though. Edit, yes, the frame is lifted off the engine, which stays bolted to the swingarm. (Message edited by d_adams on May 06, 2010) | ||
| Usanigel |
Looks like you have gained a fair amount of knowledge with the repairs to date. I suggest you get the manual to help you. You should be able to transfer most parts as assembled sections so you don't have to take everything to bits. I think you can do it! | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
usanigel, I have the service manual. I'm just trying to get some advise from the badweb members, as i'm sure there are people on here that have removed or swapped frames. | ||
| Firemanjim |
1125 swingarm attaches to motor so you can leave all that connected when removing the frame. Take pics as you go. Cradle engine/swingarm assembly and start removing everything attached to frame. Forks and front wheel,go from there. Most Buells including tubers,it is easier to remove frame from engine than engine from frame.Not hard,just take your time and read manual. | ||
| Kirb |
I think the new frame is a good idea at this point, but you COULD use Caswell's epoxy tank sealer too. I used it on my Super X tank that had an internal liner failure (flaking). After getting all the loose stuff, I sealed the rest and it works great. More than thick enough to fix your hole.... Problem is you need the frame off to fix it and, at that point, you might as well replace it. | ||
| Chevycummins |
I use an atv jack and secure the engine to it with a strap up over the engine to the jack. I think it would be a good weekend project and would be a great time to put the insulation kit on the inside of the frame if it doesn't have it already. Those guys at ebr are awesome, they go above and beyond to help. Great prices too! |
