| Author | Message | ||
     Joshinga |
I wonder if there is a way to mod the stock box on the cheap and have it not look like ass? | ||
| Captain_america |
$340!?! nevermind... Waaa!  mod the stock box on the cheap and have it not look like ass? That's a good one.... With plastic, I'm not sure that's possible... Could drill some lightning holes in it?} | ||
| T_man |
Keep in mind fellas when you open the airbox up (in any way that negates the ram air) you WILL lose performance. Vindicated by myself in regards to top end runs and by 'Littlebutquick' on 1/4 runs. It does sound horny though! | ||
| Captain_america |
Done!     I'll see what happens right now on my way home | ||
| Highscore |
T-MAN you are a racer. You are talking about you race-experiences. I have no doubt about it. My question now is: What was the state of tune of your bike, when you removed your air box cover? Has the fueling/mapping of your bike has been adjusted to the new situation, the new air flow thru the engine? If not, it is no surprise, that you make this experience. A dyno-run is necessarily an artificial situation, it is no real world driving or racing. But nevertheless - if performed accurately - it shows no fake, but the habit and character of an engine. The result here posted by me shows the effect when giving the Helicon engine full air to breathe. I see no reason, why this potential should not be transformed into real world performance for street or track, as long as you give the engine the fuel, it needs by that improved air supply. I used for the job, to fill in some more fuel into the engine, the REMUS POWERIZER. This is a piggy-back device, which works by the same principle as the Dynojet PC (pulse-width-modulation) and prolongs or shortens the working injector timing according load and rpm as necessary. Holding the injectors longer open than the ECM means more fuel and vice versa. The Powerizer is just a tool, like an main jet in a carburetor is a tool. I prefer this tool, because I am familiar with it (I have developed this device). It does not work better than other similar devices like the Dynojet PC or other "refueling" tools like ECMspy, it simply acts like changing a main jet or repositioning the needle in an old-style carburetor, releasing more or less fuel to the engine. This is the effect I am looking for, when setting up a bike on the dyno. The thing, which is really unique with the POWERIZER,is its "accelerator-pump-feature",which allows a sensitive, register-like adjustment of enrichment according throttle openening speed and angle. So it does not matter, which device is used for the fuel-adjustment, the only real´question here is, which value or A/F-ration is the best, the preferable one for the Helicon engine. I have to agree, I am not using a standard WB-lambda probe, but a special laboratory equipment, which is specially calibrated for the range between Lambda = 1 or 14,7:1 and Lambda 0,6 or 8,8:1, which is the definite absence of (residual) oxygen within the exhaust gas. I "recalibrate" continuously this equipment by checking its numbers during "closed loop" to be sure there is a fluctuation around the Lambda=1-mark. I told you this in such detail because so many strange dyno-lambda-readings are fluctuating around here. I use the same lambda-probe-equipment for setting up carbureted bikes too. Said 12:2:1 correspond to 6 (Vol)% CO within the exhaust gas. (Message edited by Highscore on March 31, 2010) | ||
| Joshinga |
Tick Tock...Captain | ||
| Captain_america |
Dang Josh, Settle the Eff down! lol It's a long ride home. I think Its a winner. Best and most accurate readings so far. Riding home the IAT ranged from 66-72 degrees (normal would be in the 80-95 range). Got home and the IAT said 69 and the temp according to my patio was 60. That's not bad considering most of the air is still coming through the intake duct. And I could feel changes in air temp riding home that was reflected by the IAT. After a 10 min stop at HD I started her up and IAT displayed 80 but quickly came down as I started moving. Took about 20-30 seconds of riding. | ||
| Joshinga |
ok next question did you extend the wires or did you just thread it up into the air box. and you also have your stock cover on? | ||
| Captain_america |
I had to extend the wires... You couldn't tell in the pics? That's good! if you cant tell, then neither will the HD guys next time they have it apart. In pic 1 you can see the heat shrunk wires running through the hole where the IAT sensor used to sit. In pic 2&3 you can see the wire sheathing I used and the heat shrink where it's doubled over. You can even see in pic 3 where I soldered the wires together. I run with NO inner air box, only the outer cosmetic cover | ||
| Joshinga |
ok cool,Now I got to have some extra wire around here somewhere. Bye the way i just put up a post looking for a 09 XB12Scg air-box cover in blue for mine. I love the color of the decals pulse it has a factory air intake hole.... How crafty am I????  | ||
| Captain_america |
I am waiting till some poor bastard crashes his by my house so I can get a free one from the dealer. Then I'm gonna take the vent part off the XB cover and re Plastic weld it to my cover. That's how I plan to mod the stocker for cheap and not end up with an ass end result haha Josh, Where did you post that you wanted one? | ||
| Joshinga |
quick board and XB board | ||
| Captain_america |
Ok since I don't know all the Buells like you guys... What are all the bike that have the airbox vent Josh and I are looking for? | ||
| Joshinga |
all the XBs around 2006-07 and up have the vent | ||
| Captain_america |
Seems like lots of guys have parts in the classifieds, just not the vents. I wish you could just buy the vent separately. I think I might just take that plastic piece out tomorrow at lunch, not sure if i can wait till a XB one shows up... | ||
| Joshinga |
let me know how it works out | ||
| Captain_america |
Or drill a bunch of hole in it, I havent decided yet... Josh, if you move the IAT like I did BE CAREFUL when you drill the air filter housing. That material is sooooo soft it will suck the drill bit in and tear the "plastic" You have to start very small and slowly work your way up... Like grab the drill bit case and start a pilot then go up 2 sizes at a time. Ending with a .5" bit, then you can work it and slowly, make the hole big enough as if there was an endmill in your drill. | ||
| T_man |
Highscore - Firstly, I want to express my appreciation of all the effort you are putting into the helicon engine through the scientific method. It can only benefit us all, now to answer your questions: I was running with the inner airbox cover off - and later I reinstalled it. Q1) What was the state of tune of your bike, when you removed your air box cover? A1) I had globally adjusted the fuelling (via direct Eprom manipulation - ECM spy & knowledge of what cells control what) to approximately an AFV 12-15% more rich than the learned values & 20% more rich in the 2-4k rpm range. O2's disabled. It ran very well with the inner airbox cover OFF - and seemed to pull 'cleaner' down low (2-5k rpms). I did a flat out top speed run and achieved approx. 148mph in this config. Q2) Has the fueling/mapping of your bike has been adjusted to the new situation, the new air flow thru the engine? A2) After speaking with 'Littlebutquick' I decided to try it with the airbox cover ON WITH the same fueling adjustments listed above. The bike barely ran! (In fact it didn't run) It was WAY TOO RICH. I had to lean it out (globally) to approximately only 5-7% more rich than learned AFV's. The bike ran very good again - infact better - top speed run of approx. 163mph. Q3) If not, it is no surprise, that you make this experience. A3) I was shocked - it actually 'felt' stronger with the cover 'off' - but the objective data proved otherwise. This season I will do more testing and keep you all informed - I am after maximum horsepower & thus maximum performance}. | ||
| Captain_america |
Thanks T Man. This is an awesome thread! Lets keep it going! | ||
| Captain_america |
Well I got Impatient... Here is my cheap Broke dick Chamfer-less drill hole collage.  I'll make it look more better later lol | ||
| Joshinga |
I have a stepped bit set that works great for that kind of stuff. To be honest it really doesn't look that bad. I little counter sinking and it would look great. for what its worth there is a lot of air coming from around the bottom of the cover. | ||
| Bigblock |
you can just pull that little cover off, it only has two little melted tabs that hold it in place, and if you do it very carefully, you can reinstall it if you don't like it that way. | ||
| Joshinga |
I thought about that Big but it leaves to much of the area around the fill cap exposed. and well they stuff was never meant to be see and isn't all that pretty. | ||
| Captain_america |
Ya I thought about that too but then you would see the white and blue air filter and the breather hose from the tank. Not very nice looking. I got a little counter sink/chamfer bit and will make her nice today. Post pics later.... | ||
| Captain_america |
More Better:       I kinda like it. A little rough round the edges but that's ok. | ||
| Kc10_fe |
Some Novus scratch repair/ polish would clean that right up. | ||
| Xbud |
That is a great idea, the hole pattern looks great, I am not sure I could do a job like that any better. Are you still running a stock air filter or a K&N? I am sure this would help a lot in cooling the inside of the frame as well.... | ||
| Avc8130 |
So, what is the report? I have a feeling that is pretty still air by the gas cap since it is behind the flyscreen. I could be wrong though. Maybe tie a short string to the hole and see what happens while you ride to prove me wrong? ac | ||
| Slypiranna |
Cold air and relocated IAT works on this bike just like any other... FWIW, leave the stock plastic intake snorkel behind the forks and cut off the stock airbox lower plastic, even with the bottom. Seal the bottom of the airbox lower. Cut openings in the TOP of the stock airbox lid and fab scoops. A side benefit is an excellent air cooling/flowpath over the top of the engine and inner frame area and it does aid in overall engine/frame cooling if rerouted this way. Reaching ambient temp on the IAT isn't likely unless you have said sensor positioned at the point of cold air intake entry. The temp within the airbox is obviously higher. Photo and testing was done back in fall of 2008. Same benefits apply. Have fun and Happy Tuning!  | ||
| Avc8130 |
MOAR pics! ac |
