| Author | Message | ||
     1125rrrred |
Need to make appointment for wiring harness update - do I need to reinstall the 'noid and cable to keep from having voided warranty conversations with the service department? Anyone with real world experience to share? Can see no logical reason for it to affect warranty (especially since replacement is a Buell part AND this is IMHO a Serious Safety issue), but if it's going to be a conversation starter, might be easier just to reinstall/uninstall. Deja Vu all over again, again. Thanks | ||
| S1125r |
I'd say talk to your service department. I had a really good conversation today with the mechanic that works on my bike, he and the dealership are all about getting me all the parts I need like exhausts and ECMs to get the most out of the bike. The last dealership I went to flat out told me that I'd lose my warranty if I changed the fuel map. | ||
| Captain_america |
My Charging sys. update will be done in the morning on my De-noided bike. There are and have been no questions or problems with that or my HID's and warranty... | ||
| Cravacor |
Captain A, Did you remove the solenoid or just unplug it and install the resistor? | ||
| Captain_america |
I removed the whole Sha-bang. My thought is that if BUELL makes the part to take the noids place... then whats the issue if you make the swap? | ||
| Ratsmc |
I was pretty excited when I order the plug and my dealer actually knew what it was and what I was doing. Bottom line though is, the dealer gets paid for warranty work. Any dealer who gives you a hard time about mods has their head up their ass. Why turn away money? On top of that these are Harley dealers, you know, the ones with the "Chrome Specialist" on site. Oh wait, I forgot, mods aren't the same if they aren't shiney. Remember: you have have 130db straight pipes but don't touch that noid, it might just cause your bike to reach 90db at WFO. Basically, you have nothing to worry about. If they give you a hard time, you really need to find another dealer. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I know I'm likely to regret asking, but what's your reasoning behind this "Serious Safety issue"? KeS | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Kev, it can restrict the throttle just when you need the power ... | ||
| 1125rrrred |
Kev, Have experienced a full blown noid attack - going from WOT to full closed (absolutely no warning) between engine braking and 3rd gear gearing, the sensation is the bike is trying to throw you over the bars. It's all about timing - if you had just tucked in a little too close after passing a Truck, or had a buddy following a tighter than he should, or was leaning tight in a long sweeping corner, etc., its something that has disastrous potential. Hence my opinion that is is very much a safety issue. This sounds more strongly worded than intended - sorry. I have read somewhere the 'active air intake' affects only the rear cyl. Checked b/4 removal by manually operating the solinoid and at least on my 1125r, both butterflys closed completely. Couldn't even feel it with the throttle hand. Maybe some bikes react differently, but on mine the unexpected action was pretty violent. Regards... | ||
| Vinb |
And don't forget how it would take off like a rocket if held on and got past the rpm range it cut out. I had it do that on the highway and it almost came out from under me | ||
| Froggy |
Interesting, I got about 8000 miles combined on two 1125's, and neither of them have had the noid kick in ever. I recently de-noided my CR, and I have never gotten the check engine light to come on indicating that the noid should of kicked in. As for the warranty, you should not modify something and continue to expect it to be covered. Yet I have had no problem getting warranty work done on my XB, which other than the frame and motor, has no stock parts. | ||
| 1125rrrred |
Vin - Have not had that experience - when noid kicked in I was fortunately in a position to shut down and get bike settled b\4 proceeding, but can imagine... Just an accidental blip on the throttle once you've backed off at high rpm can be pretty eye opening. Froggy - I respectfully disagree on warranty expectations. If I modify anything that has possibly caused a failure on a normally warranted item, I agree - that's my problem. In this case, if I bypass the solenoid (a sound control device) with a factory designed/supplied part, I have a hard time understanding why I should loose support in case of, for example, engine failure at 2000 miles. Don't get me wrong - bike has been great and I am not anticipating problems, just don't want to be left flapping in the breeze if something unexpected were to happen. Honestly don't even know if it's an issue or not which is the reason for the post. Just wanted to find out what other owners have experienced. Appreciate everyone's responses (you too Froggy). ¦·) | ||
| Zac4mac |
My solenoid kicked in on me once. Very unnerving. It got disconnected the next day. The dealership I'm at doesn't care if the 'noid is there or not. YRMV Zack | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Oh, I thought you were calling the "low-rpm charging" TSB the Serious Safety issue. That one seemed a a stretch.  KeS (Message edited by kevin_stevens on March 17, 2010) | ||
| Dirty_john |
if the noid has been removed and replaced with the official Buell end of line resistor how can it be a warranty issue? | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act; "....Further, under the act, aftermarket equipment that improves performance does not automatically void a vehicle manufacturer's original warranty, unless the warranty clearly states the addition of aftermarket equipment automatically voids your vehicle's warranty, or if it can be proven that the aftermarket device is the direct cause of the failure." Should not be an issue. Read more: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/keeping-your -mods-warranty-intact.html#ixzz0iSIVpXoz | ||
| Vtwinbuell |
Buell does not sell a NOID removal resistor plug, they sell a CAN bus termination plug that many people have re-purposed. | ||
| Oyrider |
My package just says "resistor plug". | ||
| Jules |
My R had no cable attached to the solenoid from new, the dealer didn't fit one so I can't see how my having now removed it would be a warranty issue.. | ||
| Rocketsprink |
most techs probably don't even know if the "noid" was ever there or not | ||
| Captain_america |
Yup. Most techs don't seem to know anything. They put my forks in the triple at two different heights! duh....? Froggy... Are you ever even in a situation to activate the niod? Mr. MPG man lol B4 I even knew the niod existed, it struck! I was in the mountains going to pass a car and pulled into the opposing lane and it was like someone hit the kill switch on me. I had to pull over and change my underwear... I ordered the resistor b4 my dealer even knew they existed. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Interesting, I got about 8000 miles combined on two 1125's, and neither of them have had the noid kick in ever h-y-p-e-r-m-i-l-e-r | ||
| Dipstick |
Never experienced "noid cut off" either, until I went to Arkansas with some other sport bikers and started ripping up those curvey roads. It "cut off" on me 4-5 times a day under those conditions. Thats all it took for me, now it has the Buell resistor in it and the noid now hangs on my shop wall (its for sale, cheap!) Now when the CEL comes on I just have a big laugh. | ||
| Froggy |
Great gas mileage or not, I can't even get it to kick in during the specified gear and RPM ranges. Even when I am screwing around and riding hard, I have never had it happen. | ||
| Vinb |
Froggy 3rd gear at about 3500rpm lay into it hard that's when it would do it for me. But be careful cuz at about 5000rpm it will kick off if you stay in it and then hold on its like a rocket. | ||
| Jdugger |
Realistically, one should never hit the 'noid. Presumably, if one goes WOT, it's because rapid acceleration is desired. In that case, it will always be faster to pick up a gear (2nd), even including the shift time, than lug the motor through those low revs where the 'noid would actuate. If you are low enough in the rpm range to actuate the 'noid, you don't need to even clutch the downshift. Apply gentle/reasonable down pressure to the shift lever, twitch the throttle and it will shift. As soon as you hear the "snick", WOT and off you will go like a rocket. | ||
| Tommy_k |
Had it happen to me the other day. Totally sucked because I was trying to merge in the interstate. Def. a safety issue. I thought it was the factory ecm... So, will updated flashes address this, or is hardware the only way? Sorry, but I've been off this forum forever n ever. I have an 09 CR btw. Thanks BWB | ||
| Captain_america |
If I am just rolling on the throttle going to pass a car, you really don't need to downshift to 2nd... That's why I love these motors... They are torque monsters. While you're in your Honda (jap bike) blowing the thing to redline all the time to make anything happen, I'm in my '72 Chevelle with my bloody V8 (1125CR) chillin in third gear blowing the tires off it at 4500rpm. | ||
| Froggy |
This morning on my way to work, I took some side roads so I can experiment with my bone stock 08 R. I first tried 3500rpm in 3rd gear, nothing. It was definitely bogged down but still pulled strong. That is to be expected at WOT below the power band. I tried it again, 4th gear, and again in 2nd gear. Same results. I tried all 3 gears at 3000 RPM, and then again at 4000 and 4500. Never once I got the damn thing to kick in, or if it is kicking in, I couldn't tell. I did similar last summer on my 1125CR with the same results. | ||
| Tommy_k |
Froggy, you'll definitely be able to tell when it kicks in. I seriously thought there was something wrong with my bike til I read a few threads here. It feels like when you hit a top speed limiter... just totally shuts down for a second. Like I said, I was trying to merge, and the timing couldn't have been worse. So, to re-ask, anyone know if flash update fixes this, or is removal the only cure?? Thx |
