| Author | Message | ||
     Duggram |
Just got my Speedcell battery and I would like to make a quick disconnect for it that would not require removing the tail section each time. Any suggestions on how to do this? The reason for the quick disconnect is that between track events I can't keep it on a trickle charger. The suggested method of maintaining the battery is to disconnect it. | ||
| Jdugger |
SAE plugs are the standard... buy some crimp assembly ones and use SHORT 12GA wire. | ||
| Lastonetherebuys |
dont use crimp conections if at all possible try to find solder conectors why would you want a no start for something as simple as a stupid crimp conector | ||
| Therealassmikeg |
Routing the battery disconnect plug to a location where you can access it would be my first suggestion. A google search found this SAE R/V roof connector you could mount in the tail section. Use the roof connector as your batery ground circuit and use another SAE plug as a jumper. Pull the jumper and battery is disconnected. Simple, Cheap, and Functional! http://www.solarseller.com/low_voltage_dc_pumps__l vm__teel__accessories__plugs_and_extensions.htm HD SAE CONN $3.00 RV RC $5.00 | ||
| Jdugger |
> dont use crimp conections if at all possible try to find solder conectors why would you want a no start for something as simple as a stupid crimp conector Funny you brig up solder, because I've had some bad luck with it on motorcycle applications. As an ex-electronics guy, solder seems self-evident as a better solution, but I'm finding that's not necessarily so. What happens is the vibration on the bike causes the wire to break right at the point of transition between the end of the tinning from the solder joint and the return to regular wire. So, if you do solder, be sure to zip tie the joint together so that any vibration and stress goes into the "regular wire" and not the soldered bits. | ||
| Therealassmikeg |
Or you could use a 60amp maxi blade fuse and holder. Mounted neatly underneath your body work, you could then cut a slot for the fuse to fit through and be flush or slightly protruding through body so you can pull it out. drill a hole in fuse and safety wire it to frame so you won't lose it. Get the picture??? You could probably get away with using a 100 amp maxi blade in this holder if you needed to. http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/EPD-20077 7.pdf http://www.mouser.com/_/?Keyword=maxi+blade+fuse+h older&FS=True | ||
| Therealassmikeg |
Industry standard for automotive wiring repair these days is to use butt connectors. A good set of crimpers and heat shrink butt connectors should be sufficient for any wiring repair. I prefer this one http://www.drillspot.com/products/66552/Sta-Kon_WT 111M_Crimping_Plier Been using 'em for 20+ years... | ||
| Duggram |
Thanks for all the suggestions. I learned a lot here. I like the fuse/breaker idea. Maybe find a waterproof one and silicon seal it in place with screws or tie warps.... | ||
| Therealassmikeg |
No problem Doug, At least you're pointed in the right direction. Please post some pics when you're done. Good call on the SAE plugs Jdugger (Message edited by therealassmikeg on January 31, 2010) | ||
| Zac4mac |
I've been doing electrics for 30+ years. Problem here is the gauge of the wire. A good solder connection will require a lot of heat and the solder will wick a long way. As Jim observed, the wire will break at the end of the solder. The heat also affects the wire's ductility, making it more prone to breakage. A GOOD crimp will outlast a good solder connection in a vibrating environment, strain relief is also a must in either case. McMaster-Carr has power connections for forklift batteries and such. Pretty sure they come in small enough size for this application and would fit the bill. Standard Molex(Mate-N-Lock) would work if you split up the strands to 2-3 pins each, but I wouldn't recommend that. Zack | ||
| Therealassmikeg |
I've got one of these laying around if you're interested. A little on the heavy side but it's probably the most compact one you'll find. http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Swit ches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html | ||
| Duggram |
Thanks Mike, but I like the waterproof rocker switches. Haven't had a chance to look at it, but I think I can use a big rocker switch mounted under the tail pan. I've got one of those after market tail pans that has lots of room for a switch. I'll let you know. |
