| Author | Message | ||
     Johnnys999 |
I sold my Ducati Multistrada, before I did I removed the heated gear connector/reostat and went ahead and installed them on my 1125CR. Was fortunate enough to have room to route the wires from the battery to that small fairing opening under the seat. That is where the reostat is located and its easy access while on the fly. Took it out for a test ride not only for the heated gear, but to also check out the final adjustments I made to the suspension. I was on cloud 9, the heated gear worked perfectly and the suspension was dialed in, this rocks! BTW, I duplicated the suspension settings recommended by Sport Rider magazine last month. It specs were in an article comparing the 1125CR against the Ducati Streetfighter. You should get the magazine, impressive remarks about our bike and the suspension settings were a bonus. BTW, when the author said 14mm showing for the front fork preload is likely the stock setting which is 7 turns from stiff or 2mm per turn. I'm going by the fact Ducati is 2mm per turn and they share the same components sometimes (Showa on the base model Ducs). The ride in the twisties was absolutely awesome and then some. As others have commented, the stock suspension settings were horrible on the bike, so if you have a new CR or R and it feels like crap, get the last month issue of Sport Rider or PM me for the specs. Rider weight is the variable, but you can dial that out. The bike is amazingly fun now. (Message edited by JohnnyS999 on November 26, 2009) | ||
| Cafefun |
I'm running heated gear on my CR as well! | ||
| Ccryder |
Heck I run both my Gerbing jacket and gloves on a daily commute. Keep the revs up 4500-5000 for charging. | ||
| R2s |
You sold the Multistrada! I kept mime and bought an 1125R. I got a heated vest and I love it. | ||
| Judd |
Second ride I did on my CR I had heated gear on. Going to be add heated grips and hand guards too. I'll parrot what your saying about the suspension needing to be screwed with. I too set it to the SportRider recommendations but have already played with it further and I will probably mess with it some more as I get more and more aggressive with it as I get used to it. (Message edited by Judd on November 27, 2009) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Rider weight is the variable, but you can dial that out. Rider weight is the primary factor of any suspension setting--just "dialing it out" would be creating new suspensions setting, right? SPort Rider settings are pretty much useless, unless you happen to equal the weight of whatever test rider created the published settings. I suspect your success with the SR settings is more luck than anything else. Glad you are having fun, tho. | ||
| Krash01 |
When I got my bike, it felt like a brick, and it was hard to turn. I set my suspension, for my weight, using the guide in the owner's manual. The difference is night, and day. The bike now feels very light, and corners easily. | ||
| Jaimec |
When I ordered my bike last year, I ordered it WITH the heated grips installed. When I took delivery, the mechanic noticed I had a BMW power outlet installed on the XB12Ss I was trading in, and he offered to move it over to the 1125R for me (free of charge). Of course I took him up on the offer. Nice to ride toasty warm (when road conditions allow) all year round on BOTH of my motorcycles. | ||
| Johnnys999 |
quote by Fresnobuell Rider weight is the primary factor of any suspension setting--just "dialing it out" would be creating new suspensions setting, right? SPort Rider settings are pretty much useless, unless you happen to equal the weight of whatever test rider created the published settings. Uh,my post wasn't a tutorial or should I include a disclaimer? Lets just say I'm in the factory profile weightwise and the rider in the magazine appeared to be close enough to my weight just by looking at his picture. Actually I didn't even notice. Further, the recommended suspension settings in the manual indicate for the front fork preload for example is 7 turns out for riders between 170lbs and 230lbs. So if your above that or below it you can dial in or out to make it correct. So whats wrong with saying "dialing it out?" Its obvious if you make a settings change it will have some suspension change, so whats your point? The suggested suspension settings by Sport Rider weren't useless,didn't you read my post, they worked great. | ||
| Xb1200rick |
so what do those settings look like . I have not been able to find that mag in the store Rick | ||
| Judd |
http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/susp ension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/buell.htm l BTW,,, don't go straight to the "flush with triple clamp" front height. I did and I didn't like it. Go halfway between the flush with triple clamp and stock setting {stock is roughly 14.25 above clamps}. I went to flush right away and didn't like it. I moved it to around 7mm above and found I like it better than the sportbike setting or stock. But,,, it's easier to raise the front on the side of the road than lower it back down so you might want to creep up on the right front height. I also used a bit less compression and a bit less preload but since I'm playing on the street that's to be expected. Overall,,, I'm glad I started with the Sportrider suggested settings as they were pretty close. A hell of alot better than when I got it.  | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
Thanks for the link! | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
the rear rebound setting shows 4 turns out but the screw dosent even turn 4 turns... do they want it fully open? what are those of u using these guide lines doing? | ||
| Judd |
Yep,, fully open or dern near it. I think I ended up on 1 to .5 turn out if I'm remembering right. If I remember right,, even the owner's manual had it in that range. BTW,,, have you brain stormed an idea for mirrors yet? (Message edited by Judd on November 29, 2009) (Message edited by Judd on November 29, 2009) | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
the owners manual had me at 11/4 out from all the way in... sportriders said 4 out from all the way in... mine only turns about 3.9 turns before it stops... I ordered a set of cheep mirrors online I'm going to try... | ||
| Johnnys999 |
Judd, I could be wrong but I interpreted the 14mm as 7 turns from stiff because the Ducati preload measures 2mm for each turn. So I figured 7 turns equaled 14mm. At first I was thinking it was 14mm as "lines showing" but I couldn't get my caliper positioned right to measure that. Extreme6669, I was concerned as well about the rear rebound setting being 4 turns out, as others observed, thats max! I like having some play on either side of the setting, but in this case your up against the wall with nowhere to go. When I hear people talk about the differences between the Showas and Ohlins, adjustability comes up. Apparently the Ohlins has more of it. I don't recall being at the settings limit on any of my Ohlins equipped bikes. Oh well, thats the way it goes I guess. The settings were very good on an easy going ride last week, but today I stepped up the pace and I felt the bike wallowing sometimes. I'll increase rebound damping a click or so and see how that works. CRG makes a nice fold down mirror, but I think its a little on the spendy side. I compared it to another smaller stationery mirror and the CRGs were much better for seeing whats behind you. I ordered the parts from Motowheels, the larger CRG mirrors and also black barend turn signals. They blink fore and aft with LEDs. Really a trick turn signal set up. I hope to do away with the empty threaded stock mirror mount with a new m/c and likely something like Pazzo levers. Motowheels wants to ascertain the advantage of a certain Brembo unit over stock. Ultimately I will have both clutch and brake m/c replaced with Brembo units and use it as a model for others to buy if they're interested. There is a possibility of installing a Brembo unit that has the fluid reservoir and m/c as one unit, like the stock one. | ||
| Judd |
The 14mm I was referring to was how high the fork tubes were above the triple clamps from the factory. I assume your talking about preload as your referring to turns and how much from "stiff". Now, if your talking preload I'm still on the 12 turns from full stiff that Sportrider suggested. I tend to fiddle with one thing at a time then ride a bit and I haven't gotten around to fiddling with the preload yet. I have ridden it as delivered and didn't like it. I fiddled with preload only before I knew about the Sportrider settings and ended up almost exactly where they suggested. I think I was a tad softer by a turn or so. I then set everything to the Sportrider settings and have played with only the front setting so far. A bit less compression and less ride height so far. One day I need to get up there during the week by myself and really spend some time narrowing down the setting but honestly,,, it's alot better than when delivered. Also,, I think that 4 turns out would be "minimum" rebound which might be what your talking about. I just tend to use "max" as the maximum rebound damping adjustment available and "min" as the least amount of rebound damping available. In other words,,, screw it in four turns from there and your at "max" and the most available rebound damping. I remember right, I found it at something like 1 or 2 turns out {don't quote me on that as my memory may well be faulty} and I like the way it is now at 4 turns out better. I'm sure I will play with that a bit too and I might not stay where it's at now but I usually play with the front first, then the rear. (Message edited by Judd on November 30, 2009) (Message edited by Judd on November 30, 2009) | ||
| Johnnys999 |
quote by Judd: Now, if your talking preload I'm still on the 12 turns from full stiff that Sportrider suggested. Judd, Yes I thought you were referring to the height above the triple clamps. Instead of stating turns in or out to achieve suggested settings, for some reason Sport Rider suggested "14mm showing" instead of the turns in or out. I thought they meant 14mm above the triple clamps, similar to saying "lines showing", but I wanted to make sure since I couldn't measure the forks with my digital caliper. I figured since with the Ducati each turn of the spring preload nut was 2mm and because the stock setting for a range of rider weights (170-230lbs) required 7 turns in from minimum I figured 7 X 2mm = 14mm. Made sense to me. I verified that later when I bought a metric ruler and measured the height of the forks above the triple clamp. It came out to 14mm showing. In your above quote you said your still on the Sport Rider suggested 12 turns from full stiff. What doesn't jive here is the fact the owner's manual says in order to achieve the correct setting for spring preload you turn the adjuster counterclockwise until it stops at minimum or full soft and then turn in (clockwise) from there to achieve the suggested setting. According to the manual you would turn in 7 times from soft not stiff as you stated in order to arrive at the setting for riders between 170 and 230lbs. Where one can get confused is on the fork spring preload, instead of doing what you usually do when you turn to maximum then turn out to achieve the setting, its the oppisite with the spring preload. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
Its true... when your comparing the owners manual settings to the sport rider settings you have to really read the fine print as they dont lay it out the same. | ||
| Ccryder |
John: What heated gear are you using? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I've been good so far with heated grips and "just-plain-warm-gear" down to 14F. Rode the 10 miles to work yesterday in jeans and long-johns, down vest and light jacket, gauntlets and helmet. I love the pods... It helps when I move my grips in as far as they will go, for the Winter. A half-inch makes a big difference finding calm air. Zack | ||
| Ccryder |
For my ride into work of 70 miles, at 35-40deg, I've had to switch to my Gerbing jacket and gloves. My Gerbing jacket under my Tecnic Hurricane jacket keeps me way comfy. Yeah 10-30 mins I could get by w/o heated gear but after that, and 55-60 mph, my metabolisim can't keep up with keeping me warm. Once you go electric, you'll wonder why you didn't do it years sooner! Neil S. | ||
| Judd |
No need to get confused Johnny. There are many roads to Rome. Hell,, I might have even got a word cofused or something. The main point is that I was referring to the 14mm as the height of the forks over the triple clamps,,, not some kind of preload adjustment. What we do not know is how many total turns there is and if we knew,, that the 12 turns from stiff and the 7 from full soft be near each other. I don't honestly know. To be honest, I don't care. All I care is the end result. I think we may be over thinking this too much and turning mole hills into moutains. Sportrider suggests 12 turns from full stiff. Try it, if you do not like it,,, try the factory recommended 7 turns from full soft. I rode it with the factory settings,, I then fiddled with the preload and ironically ended up in dern near the same spot the Sportrider suggested setting, was maybe a turn or so off. Also,,, remember this is at the track setting and most of us don't ride as hard on the street as we do at the track and maybe things would feel better a bit softer. (Message edited by Judd on November 30, 2009) (Message edited by Judd on November 30, 2009) | ||
| Johnnys999 |
Ccryder asked: What heated gear are you using? Same as you Bro, Gerbing. Used it today again, I'm totally hooked, but I think next time I'll wear a windbreaker under my textile just to see how it works. What I was experimenting with is minimal clothing over the Gerbing jacket. I found that you experience "cold spots" doing that. In real cold weather I will wear the outer jacket liner as well. I think this will keep the heat coming off the heated jacket more uniform. I have heated gloves now, but for the sake of ease of use, I think eventually I'm gonna install heated grips. I really like having the reostat within easy reach while riding. When your going faster its colder so you can adjust on the fly. Likewise when you slow down the jacket gets a little too hot so you can adjust that as well. It would be a PITA not to have the heat adjustment within reach. (Message edited by JohnnyS999 on December 01, 2009) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Once you go electric, you'll wonder why you didn't do it years sooner! AMEN!!! All I'm having trouble with is figuring out where to mount a thermostat for my HD/Gerbing jacket and gloves on the CR. I may get the Gerbing fixed-mount set and a spare gauge surround, and mount it up there. I just don't like the wires dangling (and scratching) on my first (and last - this thing is a PITA to keep clean) black bike. | ||
| Vanslam |
Johnny I sold my 2007 Multistrada this year as well. BUt I needed space for my 1948 Indian. I was saving for my new Multi when the Buell price drop happened. So now I own a 1125R. I am very happy with my new sport twin. Cant wait to test drive the new Multi. | ||
| Johnnys999 |
Ratbuell quote: All I'm having trouble with is figuring out where to mount a thermostat for my HD/Gerbing jacket and gloves on the CR. I may get the Gerbing fixed-mount set and a spare gauge surround, and mount it up there. I just don't like the wires dangling (and scratching) on my first (and last - this thing is a PITA to keep clean) black bike. I mounted the Gerbing reostat whereby its sticking out of the opening under the seat's left side. Its perfect there, easy access and adjustable while driving. The set up is awesome, I love heated gear! (Message edited by johnnys999 on December 02, 2009) | ||
| Ccryder |
I hang my Dual-controller from the carry handle on my tankbag. Low tech but works. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I just ordered some Tourmaster Synergy stuff and hope it's better than the First Gear stuff I sent back. Hoping to keep riding all season this time. | ||
| Judd |
Mountainstorm,,, have you heard of Adv Rider? There is a good sized thread over there about Tourmaster heated gear. General consensus is that the First Gear stuff is better. Thread- http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302508 I have had Tourmaster gear since it came out,, 2-3 years or so. I have had problems with the controllers, every one of em and I have had alot. I have to admit, they do not hem haw around and they send new ones promptly but it's still irritating especially when two controllers fail during a 2-3 week trip in the middle of winter. Thankfully it was a trip to Baja and the heated stuff was really only needed for about 3-6 days of that trip but still,,, they really need to get on the ball with the controllers and fix em for good. Sorry bout the copy and paste link but when it was a regular highlighted link it went to a different thread about excessive vibration??? Oh well,,, just copy and paste. (Message edited by Judd on December 02, 2009) (Message edited by Judd on December 02, 2009) |
