| Author | Message | ||
     Imshaun |
Just looking for an opinion on extending the warranty. I was considering this because my fuel pump failed at 500 miles, my left signal went out at 3000 miles, and now the bike is running lean... not to mention all of the recalls and problems i've seen through out the threads. Also, my front brake is very grabby and slows me down in a jerking motion. - Does anyone else experience that? What is the cost to extend the warrant? I havn't asked the dealer yet. -Shaun | ||
| Jdugger |
> Also, my front brake is very grabby and slows me down in a jerking motion As in it "pulsates" as it brings the bike to a stop? | ||
| Marcodesade |
Having had mike bike in the shop for at least 6 unscheduled repairs/glitch fixes SINCE CHRISTMAS  I have to tell you: DO IT. I have been without a bike exactly 3 days (when a rental was unavailable) out of the several weeks represented by these repairs thanks to the free rental provided as part of the extended warranty (side note: the prepaid maintenance package provides the same benefit during scheduled maintenance). I don't remember the exact cost, but it was somewhere around $1K for 3 years including the optional tire and wheel package (they kindly recommended I ride around construction sites when the tread starts getting low).  | ||
| Xnoahx |
+1 609 +290 for tire and wheel +2 814 +290 +3 999 +290 +4 1204 +365 +5 1494 +365 These are standard prices for adding years to your factory warranty. If the bike is more than 90 days old or has more than 2000 miles on it there may also be a $150 surcharge. | ||
| Adoogie3 |
I had my bike in the shop for three weeks with a broken primary drive read the big problem thread . And I asked for one and they said I would find out next week. My brake was pulsing pretty bad and I was told that it wasn't under warranty but the dealer told me it was . Wait till they find out when they submit the warranty paperwork to buell and find out it isn't. They told me no brake components were warranties at all. There going to be hott !! | ||
| Clbofaz |
Normally, I'd scoff at an extended warranty program, err... profit enhancing program as they should be called (might as well be the optional pin striping). But, with these being bikes and a new model (read: beta) only 2 years out the gate its a good idea - think Windows Vista when it came out (or now for that matter). I got the 5 yr warranty, nearly recouped its cost within 24 hours of buying the bike. Blinkers went out as well as IC, taking dealer about a week and a half to fix. The rental coverage covers $750 total and/or $75/day, no other limits. So I've managed to offset 75+% of it out the gate and still have another, basically, 5 years left. Down side to not getting it the day you buy the bike is your most certainly going to have to pay the 200ish dollar fee and cant use your loan to pay it. Marcodesade - correct me if I'm interpreting your post wrong but the dealer implied you could get new tires by getting them jacked up when they're past the point of safe repair? At $290 for that program they'd loose money on the first set... If that's the case I think I'll go get that coverage here pretty soon, lol. | ||
| Marcodesade |
It was a tech, not the dealership owner, but yes. It is a road hazard warranty. I do believe the thing is pro-rated (50% tread life gets you 50% of the cost of the tire) and the minimum tread remaining must be 3/32. Parts AND LABOR are included. | ||
| Clbofaz |
Even so, that's pretty good. They must've neglected to mention that at my dealership... | ||
| Xnoahx |
Tire and wheel as I understand it and sell it is full cost parts and labor for replacement on the damaged tire as long as the tread is no LESS THAN 3/32". You should not see any prorated amounts on there. Also, if you choose to run different tires than stock the tire and wheel coverage is still valid up to the amount of a stock replacement tire. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Yes, I heard the part about switching out to another brand if I wanted. I might have misunderstood about pro-rating. Thanks for the clarification. Even better! | ||
| Imshaun |
I'm gonna swing by the dealer tomorrow and learn more about the warranty. This front brake grabbing is very irritating but I can live with it. thanks | ||
| Banana_man |
surely if there is a problem with the brake then that should be covered by the warranty! unless it has been caused by miss use. | ||
| Jdugger |
> This front brake grabbing is very irritating but I can live with it. Take a picture of your rotor. I don't need to see the whole thing, I just need to see a small section of it in detail. I suspect you just aren't using it hard enough. The Buell brakes, if not used hard, won't bed in correctly. And, then, you will get pulsating and poor performance. Buell made a decision to go with a rather high performance pad for OEM, with the benefit of better performance for a harder rider. But, used lightly only, the pads will glaze and not perform well at all. One thing to try: Run the speed up to about 80, and start breaking down to about 20. Do this repeatedly, breaking harder each time until you are knocking off that speed in a second or two. Your rotor should take on a light straw color at the edges and the pad bearing area should be smooth. I'll bet that pulsating clears up. | ||
| Crowley |
The stock pads can deposit material on the disc, so try cleaning it with a Scotchpad and brake cleaner. Aftermarket pads are much less prone to doing this. As the previous poster said, go out and use your brakes hard, the problem will probably go away. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Mine pulsates like a mo-fo, and has for a LONG time. I ordered the race rotor because I'm thinking it is warped. I have tried scrubbing it with a scotchbrite, but always pulses the same. Here's a detail pic of mine...Does this illustrate what you are looking for?  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Those deposits will never leave. I cleaned off mine with a brake hone and after a 5 mile ride it looked like the old rotors again. I won't bother doing that ever again. | ||
| Az_m2 |
Lyndal Gold pads cleared up the pulsing for me. | ||
| Jdugger |
Point, In my personal *opinion*, you are not using your brakes hard enough to prevent the OEM Buell pads from glazing/depositing or whatever it is that they do. I can tell because of the pure-silver color of your rotor. The Buell brake, used hard and frequently, will turn a light straw color. Used really hard, like at the track, the edges of the holes turn purple and blue, and the ENTIRE non-bearing surface of the rotor turns dark gold! Will you give going out and progressively braking harder a try? You could also just get new pads, as I suspect that's really where the problem is. Run up to about 80-90, bring it down quickly to 20 or so, and keep doing it, always braking safely, but progressively harder and more firmly each time as your skills and confidence in the situation allow. It's good practice to know how your brakes will perform anyway, so do this until you can see a very, very, very light straw color on the inside of the cooling holes of the brake rotor. I'm guessing when you are shedding from 90 to 20 in a couple of seconds or so, you are using them hard enough to really scrub in those pads. Give it a try and let us know what happens. And, this is not a universal truth, but generally true, "better" brake pads, in particular "race" pads, will tend to glaze more readily than "regular" pads. If all you are doing is commuting and you use your brakes lightly (as it appears in the picture), you might look into getting "harder" pads with a longer life. You will loose some stopping power, but based on the picture, I think you might find them to be a better choice for the kind of riding you are doing. I don't run race pads on my street bike because of this -- they glaze up and "shudder" just like you describe because I don't use them hard enough on the street. | ||
| Imshaun |
Jdugger, Thanks for the input. When it stops raining here i'll get hard on the front brake like you said. What you're saying makes perfect sense... Hopefully this clears it up. -Shaun | ||
| Marcodesade |
Jdugger: Just for comparison, can you show us a picture of the purple/gold/blue coloration you're describing? Thanks! | ||
| Jdugger |
> Just for comparison, can you show us a picture of the purple/gold/blue coloration you're describing? Will do. The track bike is in the shop getting a new instrument cluster, so soon as I have it back I'll get a pic and post up. | ||
| Xl1200r |
I got the 5 yr warranty, nearly recouped its cost within 24 hours of buying the bike. You didn't recoup anything - the extra warranty you paid for doesn't kick in until 2 years after you bought the bike. Everyone gets the first two years for free. I don't think the extended warranty is worth it, even on an 1125. But my bike hasn't ever been back to the dealer for anything other than an updated flash, so my mindset may be a little different than others. You have to remember that extended warranties make money for the company. They're just like insurance. Yeah, you total your bike, your insurance company has got your back. But, over a lifetime, and unless you have really bad luck, you won't get as much in benefits from your insurance as you paid in premiums. Same goes for the warranty. Maybe you'll throw a rod, but likely you won't, and over a lifetime, you won't spend as much in repair costs (that would have otherwise been covered) than you would paid for those extra few years in coverage. Pay now or pay later. All the warranty does is you know when you're paying (right now), and you know you're paying more than the average repair bill. | ||
| Bikejunky |
You didn't recoup anything - the extra warranty you paid for doesn't kick in until 2 years after you bought the bike. Everyone gets the first two years for free. Actually, the factory warranty doesn't have any towing reimbursement, rental reimbursement, or food and lodging reimbursments. all of these kick in at point of purchase as well as the tire and wheel coverage. so if the cat above used any of those he did actually recoup on the ESP. | ||
| Ccryder |
My front brake will do the pulsing and as mentioned it is build-up/ glazing. I find that it sometimes requires 5-6 hard stops from 60-20 to clean them up. After that it's fine braking again. A few words of caution: A) make sure no one is behind you. B) Make sure that the surface is dry and free of dirt, sand, gravel etc. C) make sure no LEOs are around, they frown on this type of buelliganistic behavior(yeah try and explain that I'm only cleaning my rotor!!). D) It is good practice, it will save your butt when it's needed! Warranty, after 22k miles in 14 months, I'll probably get one for +3 years. Check with some of our sponsors for a deal. later Neil | ||
| Clbofaz |
Yeah, I used the extended warranty benifits within a day I bought it; towing and rental. Hence why I'm truly offsetting the cost now rather than later; +1 Bikejunky. Those are a big plus to people like me who use their bike for just about everything, 365.25 riding days a year. Hard to call that program a waste when your bikes in the shop for a month and you need wheels, freinds will only give you rides for so long. All it takes is once in 5 years. In any other circumstance and I might agree with the profitability of it, as in my first post. | ||
| Jdugger |
Let me apologize in advance for the pictures. They were taken with a camera phone and don't really do the color justice. The outside edges of the rotors are a dark, deep gold color. The insides are pinkish-purple. The bearing surfaces speak for themselves! These guys get HOT!    | ||
| Xl1200r |
Bikejunky - point taken, although my dealership has come and picked up my bike with a trailer for warranty work in the past (none of my Buells, but a Harley I had). Jdugger - neither my XB rotor or 1125 rotor has turned that color, and I don't have any issues with pulsing when braking. I don't think getting the rotor that hot once in a while will aid in long-term braking performance... but i've been wrong before. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Jim - have you thought about getting the race rotor? Looks like you're cooking the snot out of that one. Also looks like you're riding so hard you're having a BLAST! Z | ||
| Jdugger |
XL - The pictures are to show what the brakes will look like under heavy load situations like track riding. The rotors from my street-only 1125r look more "pure-silver". This picture is from my track bike. I don't have issues with pulsing either. Just going through a lot of brake pads! My home track is very, very braking oriented. It has 4 downhill, 180-degree, double-apex turns and 4 very significant braking zones where you shed from well above 100 MPH (and in one case, about 130) to between 50 and 60 in a couple hundred feet. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Jim - have you thought about getting the race rotor? There is such a thing? That said, I have no issue with the brakes on the 1125r. With the right pads and fluid, they work great, and stand up to the 30-minute sessions I'm putting on them just fine. I run the EBC 4-HH pad (extreme), it lasts about as long as a front tire, and I run the Motul high peformance fluid. Before the Motul, I'd start getting brake fade, but with the better fluid, I can ride the whole session without much issue. > Looks like you're cooking the snot out of that one. More friction from those better brake pads means more heat. The physics of the Buell brake system mean the pads take more wear and generate more heat than an "interior" dual-rotor system would. Once I had the better fluid, I've not noticed any issues. The rotors are not warping, at least yet. Ironically, the faster I get, the more time I'm spending on the brakes (trailing deep into corners more now), so perhaps it will become an issue as my speed increases. Right now, I'm about 4-5 seconds off a competitive pace in local club racing, so I'm in the grand scheme of things not that fast of a rider. This bike is a riot on the track, btw. |
