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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through December 06, 2008 » Solenoid question « Previous Next »

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Cataract2
Posted on Thursday, November 27, 2008 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, think I may have been bit by the solenoid. Was out riding at a steady speed and went to pass a vehicle. Never down shifted just go and wacked the throttle open. When I did this the bike slowly began to accelerate, then it just burst to life. I'm going to guess that would be an example of the solenoid doing it's thing. I'm going to guess I was around 3500 rpm.
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Jpfive
Posted on Thursday, November 27, 2008 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you were in third gear, you found it... : )
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Cataract2
Posted on Thursday, November 27, 2008 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Probably was. Hard to duplicate when you're trying to find it I noticed.
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Thursday, November 27, 2008 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bingo. That's it!

Yank that puppy.

Rob
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Ccryder
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heck I can do it anytime I want, 3rd gear at 47-53 mph an. WFO! Mine won't do it anymore but the CEL does still glow to remind me. Two ways around it: 1) Disconnect the cable. 2) use the e'noid replacement plug. Note the CEL will light but no more reduction in acelleration.
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Cataract2
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So removal of the cable or use of the e'noid replacement plug will remove this from happening in the future?
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P_squared
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you remove the cable only, no need for the ~$6 plug. Just be sure you keep the cable secured out of the way of other moving parts.

If you remove the entire noid assembly, then you need the ~$6 plug.

Either method will still give you a CEL when you hit the ~53 mph in 3rd gear to WOT condition, but you will no longer experience the "failure to accelerate" condition. As a bonus, the CEL will be gone the next time you start the motor.
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P_squared
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buell part Y0248.1AM

Steps to remove cable:
1. Remove seat (2 torx screws)
2. remove outter airbox cover (4 torx screws)
3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips)
4. Remove air filter
5. Remove air filter holder
6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point.
7. Safetywire/zip tie cable out of way of other moving parts.
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Cataract2
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks P. Eh, I can live with a CEL if I don't have to deal with that happening again.
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Ds_tiger
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK- I disconnected the solenoid cable only and went for a ride. No ~5000 RPM 3rd gear hesitation and no CEL during my shakedown run.
Then I shut the bike off, went to start again, and I have a CEL on.
Read the code from the instrument display and it displayed "PO 193 FUEL PRES SYST ERR".

Is that the solenoid being disconnected? I hooked it back up and started bike up again- and no CEL.

I thought unhooking the solenoid cable would only give me a CEL under 5K/3rd gear condition and will clear next time you cycle the ignition key.

Was the PO 193 unrelated to the solenoid and just by coincidence it went away after I hooked the noid cable back up?

(Shop manual on order)

Also- related, does anyone know if the VDST works on the 1125- I have one from my XB 12 sitting on the shelf but could not find the connector on the 1125...?

THANKS for replies
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

P 0193 is unrelated.
You get that by hitting the starter before the fuel rail gets up to pressure.
VDST - No, Digital Tech II - Yes. ECMSpy and laptop - sortof.

Z
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Ds_tiger
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks that explains everything. Wierd thing is I went out all oem connected and could not get the bike to hesitate at the 5k,3rd gear to save my life. I have no explaination for that.
Thanks for the vdst info
Steve
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Ccryder
Posted on Friday, November 28, 2008 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IIRC it's between ~45mph and 55 mph and you have to nail the throttle wide open.

When you disconnect the cable, make sure it won't hang up on anything since it still will move in/ out if you hit that magic range.

Later
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Nxtr
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So;

remove the cable = tie the linkage.

remove the solenoid and cable = tie the linkage.

What happens if you just leave the solenoid in place and the cable connected to the solenoid and linkage, and simply disconnect the plug to the solenoid and insert the $6 noid plug?

I would guess that since there is no power going to the solenoid and that the linkage is connected to the cable, there would be no way for the linkage to move. So no invasive surgery to tie the linkage, and a simple removal of the $6 noid plug and plug the solenoid back in when going to the dealer...

Or did I miss something, can the solenoid, cable and said linkage move without power?

V/R,
Nick
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Xbswede
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's just nice to be able to remove the whole unit and get rid of the clutter and weight (even though minimal).
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Cataract2
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah swede, I'm considering just pulling the whole solenoid and going with the eliminator plug. Remove the ozs.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 02:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will be surprised at how heavy that solenoid is when you get it in your hands. I think it is at least a couple lbs.--not much in the big scheme of things, but every bit helps!
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Cataract2
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone want to buy a solenoid?
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Slypiranna
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



Good one Cataract2!

If you've got a buyer, I'll throw mine in at a 2fer deal!

IMO, the warranty for a failed noid should be the installation of the $6.00 resistor! ; ) LOL!!!!

AND a tie wrap!

(Message edited by slypiranna on November 29, 2008)
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Xbswede
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This reminds of the resistor that was installed after removing the XB12 exhaust valve. Once ECM SPY came out there was a feature to turn this of within the ECM. No resistor needed.

Should just be a matter of time before its located in the 1125R
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Slypiranna
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1! Xbswede! Further development required! : )
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Nxtr
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So back to this question...

"What happens if you just leave the solenoid in place and the cable connected to the solenoid and linkage, and simply disconnect the plug to the solenoid and insert the $6 noid plug?

I would guess that since there is no power going to the solenoid and that the linkage is connected to the cable, there would be no way for the linkage to move. So no invasive surgery to tie the linkage, and a simple removal of the $6 noid plug and plug the solenoid back in when going to the dealer...

Or did I miss something, can the solenoid, cable and said linkage move without power?"

I am not concerned with the weight of the solenoid and cable or ECM SPY...

V/R,
Nick
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Slypiranna
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will still get the open P---- or Intake system codes sooner or later...as the ecu looks for the tps to respond to the noid's activation...can't get around that, yet.

Other negs are still with the possibility of delayed 1:1 throttle transients and/or fly flutter.

The only proven method is to delete all and tie the linkage 1:1...with or without the noid elimination resistor or just leaving it all in place and tied outta the way.

This again, is all in archives...many times over.

Hope this helps! : )
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Cataract2
Posted on Saturday, November 29, 2008 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not quite following you there Sly. So, removal of the noid can cause delayed throttle response?
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Slypiranna
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2008 - 01:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cataract2,

NO.

Perform the following and you'll be a happy camper;

Disconnect the noid cable(leave it plugged in the harness tho)...lock the rear throttle body...adjust your throttle cables for minimum end play and perform a tps reset if needed.

You should see 2-100% tps on the dash in diagnostic mode.

Then GO ride the difference.
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Cataract2
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2008 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, so would I be just as happy if I completely removed the noid and got the plug?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, November 30, 2008 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'll be fine with that Ryan.
I completely removed the cable, but the 'noid is still plugged in.
I don't get the DTC for it very often.
I do have a low fuel DTC that sets sporadically for no known reason.

Zack

Oh yeah - just ordered an ECMSpy cable.
Let the show begin...

(Message edited by zac4mac on November 30, 2008)
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