| Author | Message | ||
     Mustangturbo |
When cruising near 4,000RPM if I twist the throttle completely I've had a stall occur, the bike will not accelerate, it hit a wall, I have to release the throttle and roll it on slowly. I just bought the bike a week ago, it was built in April and had all of the ECM updates done. I don't know what the problem could be. I did have a check engine light come on but when i turned the bike off and back on again the light was gone... Any ideas? | ||
| 1125chick |
Mustang-Had my first (not my fault) stall last weekend. Prior to this, I had no experience with stalls like others in here. Intermittent stalls have been an ongoing discussion in here. Mine did it after a long ride, she was about 185 degrees. See if you can scroll some of the earlier threads, there is good info in here. | ||
| Ccryder |
Brandon: Take it to your dealer and see if you can get one of the Techs or SM to duplicate this issue. I have had it happen and, for now, just live with it. I am aware when it can happen. Mine is very infrequent. Neil S. | ||
| Black_snowman |
I had a stall the other day. Having my 1st maint done as I type this. Same situation. Came out of a corner and hit the throttle hard. Nothing. Backed off and it came back to life. All happened in probably less than 1/10th of a second. Maybe something in the new flash to handle the throttle sticking issue I've heard about? | ||
| Mustangturbo |
THanks for the info... I thought that it might just be one of the bugs that the current mapping displays. I love the bike, and I've always wanted a Buell. So if I have to live with some little stalls then so be it. I just hope that the brains at Buell can sort it out sooner or later. If anyone has any other info, keep it coming, I appreciate all the info I can get, as I am new to Buell. | ||
| Spectrum |
Not sure it was the same thing, but stalling was common during the first 600 miles even with my very early build and before the reflash. I think in the early break-in, mine didn't like to run below 34K. Once she was broken in good, she smoothed out a lot and runs just fine in the lower rpms. | ||
| Rocketray |
I -think- we are talking about 2 types of stall here. The low speed, low rpm herky jerky feel of the bike most definately smooths out with more miles. Have 7200 miles on mine now... and she runs just fine in these situations. The second stall as described by Mustang, has happened to me twice. Was traveling approx. 60 mph in 5th gear around 4K rpm, and hit the throttle hard to pass a car. There was nothing, felt as if I accidentally flipped the engine cutoff switch. A second or so later, all was good again. I have not had the reflash done yet. I have no clue on the cause. To keep all this in perspective, I LOVE this bike. These issues are quite minor compared to all the great gobs of fun Ive had riding this beast. Ray | ||
| Cutty72 |
The only "stall" I've had is coming to a stop. When I pull in the clutch after engine braking up to the stop light, if I don't blip the throttle when I pull in the clutch, it dies. Not every time, but probalby 40% of the time. Usually more when the bike is hot. No idea, but I do have to check that Baro sensor... | ||
| Arillius13 |
Ive been having alot of trouble with mine stalling the last month or 2, about 2700 miles. I had no problems what so ever for the first 1500, the last 1200 alot of the times when i give it gas to go from a stop it will just die. doesnt matter if i rev it up slow or fast. As soon as i give it gas and the clutch starts to let out it dies. I know im not letting out the clutch to fast because the bike doesnt jump or anything like that. Ive also had problems where id give it gas at like 4k rpms and it wouldnt do anything, the motor wouldnt die but it would just not respond. I have yet to get the reflash, going to do that this week. Also going to have the dealer look at the fuel system in general to see what they say about the stalling and loss of power. ...edit... i forgot to add that lately im getting a really bad fuel smell all the time. and today the bike was running at like 205 degrees and ambient was like 70-80. Bike has never ran that warm before, not even during extreme/high rpm street riding. Something just doesnt seem right with it lately. (Message edited by arillius13 on June 01, 2008) | ||
| Hayabusa |
Mine stalls when I am out of the throttle and let the engine slow the bike down below 3K. I have learned to downshift just before the bike likes to stall. I have noticed that the stalling doesn't occur in first gear...I can let that gear go down to 1500 RPM's. I also get some sputtering out of the throttle bodies...like a small back fire when I let the bike engine brake below 3K. My bike has been reflashed with good results. I think this is just the nature of the beast. | ||
| Cutty72 |
Hayabusa, the same thing is happening to me, except it happens in first gear for me too. I did just check and my baro sensor was mounted wrong, so I'm off for a ride to see if that makes a differance. | ||
| Cutty72 |
Rode about 100 miles... same stuff, still stalls. | ||
| Hayabusa |
I have a funny feeling that there will be more reflashes available during the next couple of months as Buell continues to work out the fueling issues with the bike. We all need to remember that this a new realm for them technologically and they do not have the experience to get it all right the first time. In time I expect the fueling to be spot on under all conditions. | ||
| Josh_ |
Sounds like some of you have my problem: I found the underlying problem for my throttle issues. The linkage between the throttle bodies had no lube whatsoever and was seriously bound. The butterflies would stick at odd positions and jump around, and I wasn't getting WOT (not that I knew until we opened it up). I got it fixed at California Superbike School by Will-the-head-mechanic who just laughed the whole time he looked at it and was ... very uncomplimentary of American engineering. He also though the rubber and plastic parts in the intake would need replacing every few years. Guess we'll see. If I get ambitious later I'll document how to check and fix it. Its not that bad and takes maybe 15min - the hard part is getting the are box base back on the throttle bodies. | ||
| Ccryder |
How To Induce A RFA: I'll bet you a 20oz Mountain Dew that I can get your 25r to do the same thing. I'll even bet that you can do it if you know the correct scenario to follow. A) Bike warmed up. B) Ambient temp 70deg or more. C) Flat road (well almost) D) 3rd gear E) 50-53 mph on speedo F) WFO on the "go grip" as fast as possible. (this takes a little practice). Yesterday I was able to do this on command (my command) if I followed these steps. I can get the engine to "stall", maybe more correctly Refrain From Accelerating (RFA), 80% of the time by following these steps. Once you know it's there, it's not to bad. IMHO, BMC needs to come up with a resolution to this induced "RFA". Time2Work Neil S. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Neil - From my understanding, your instructions are the perfect recipe for kicking in the Active Intake Solenoid. 3rd gear, 3-4 or 4-5 k rpm, I forget. WFO. Z | ||
| Ccryder |
Z: I always thought I was a good cook but not perfect ;+}. Time2Work Neil S. | ||
| Jpfive |
I agree with you Zac, and also with Neil. It is the solenoid, and I would like to see a workaround from Buell. I am alert to it now, but it is much too abrupt to be left as normal. Jack | ||
| P_squared |
4,850 rpm per the sticker on the neck. | ||
| Kttemplar |
Ccryder, I experienced the same thing you explained with the exact same recipe yesterday. I was able to recreate the event consistently. What I did find, though is that if you keep the throttle wide open, it will kick in in a couple seconds. This is definitely a downside to the bike's operation in my book. Thankfully I have been reading this board and was expecting it. There really should be a warning or something until they fix this bug. Mike | ||
| Ccryder |
And KICK IT DOES!!!!! If you don't go WFO quickly it won't happen, if you don't go WFO completely it won't happen, if you don't go WFO at the right ambient temp, or above, it won't happen........... My point is there is a very narrow window that has to be met in order for the RFA to happen. Unfortunately this window is right at the speed that some people like to drive and I just CAN'T resist passing them!!! Time4Lunch Neil S. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
SOunds about right to me Neil....except I have found my "moments" at moderate lean angle... | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Fresno, bank angle sensor acting as a traction control???? Buell twilight zone again. (Message edited by bob_thompson on June 02, 2008) | ||
| Ccryder |
Harlan: I had it do it to me when leaned over. It can be a little disconcerting, especially when you want some power coming out of a turn. Time2Roll Neil S. | ||
| Chevycummins |
I've already disconnected the cable for the active intake on my bike. I've never experienced the severe hesitation at speed, but I might not have had all the conditions correct to get it to hesitate. It would be interesting to know if when it will not accelerate if you still get some intake noise like the throttle valves are opening but spark or fuel is not there. I would guess that there is no noticeable noise change because it is the active intake closing the throttle valves. Just a thought. | ||
| Zac4mac |
There seem to be two, maybe three issues. Active Air solenoid closing the throttle in 3rd gear at 4850 rpm at WFO. Very isolated incident, avoid WFO at that spot. Throttle butterflies on a very few bikes sticking and snapping open when the spring force overcomes that sticking. I think this is a very small group, if there are indeed any. The linkage could also be binding and do the same thing. It's pretty busy under the airbox base-plate, be very careful there. I was playing in there and afterwards TPS showed 2% to 80%, had to pull the base and make sure the throttle cable went in its groove. I'm leaving my linkages all stock until I get my rideability issue resolved. Z | ||
| Josh_ |
I can guarantee the linkage was bound on my bike and throttle control was severely compromised. It is very busy in there, there is a ton of things than need to be kept lubed and free from restrictions. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
It can be a little disconcerting, especially when you want some power coming out of a turn. Fer sure. I wonder if the service manual will detail the conditions that lead to the hesistation. Or if this is gonna be another factory secret...} | ||
| Jpfive |
Good points in Zac's last post. I ran into the binding issues after my inner air box cover was replaced under warranty (broken snap). When I took it back to fix the binding, the Repair Order mentioned a relocating of the Active Air Solenoid. I didn't watch them do it, so not sure exactly what that means. Jack | ||
| Ccryder |
Fortunately for my 1125r, my only real rideability issue is the Active Air Solenoid, if that is what causes the RFA in 3rd gear at 4850 rpm at WFO. If the AAS cable is disconnected, not the electrical connection, does it throw any codes or affect anything else? Chevy, what has been your experience? I'll be talking to my SM and see his thoughts on this issue (gotta follow the procedures if you are going to play the game). Time2Work Neil S. (Message edited by ccryder on June 03, 2008) |
