| Author | Message | ||
     Ponti1 |
Okay, I finally bit the bullet. The Sportster isn't selling fast enough and the weather is warming up, so I'm trading her in on Friday for an 1125R! Found a dealer about 140 miles away that will give me almost what I'm trying to sell it privately for, and sight unseen at that. So, I did the paperwork over the phone today, and will be a proud new owner of my first Buell on Friday and no longer just the longest resident non-owner on all the sites I frequent Now, a couple questions if I may ask them without too bad a flogging...I've been reading about everything I can find, but feel like I missed a good number of posts here and on the other Buell forums over the last week or two. 1. Service Manual available yet? 2. Parts Manual available? 3. Available exhausts besides D&D? 4. Race ECM or anyone tuning the 1125R with documented gains? 5. K&N for the 1125R? | ||
| Strmvt |
http://www.knfilters.com/search/appsearch.aspx Is from K&Nfilters.com site they don't show a specific listing yet but you may be able to cross reference with the stock part # | ||
| Ponti1 |
One more thing...Any things from you owners that I should look out for on the way home from the dealer? I don't want to miss looking for some kind of issue and get stuck in the middle of nowhere or something. The only things off the top of my head are the fuel smell and dead battery issues, but I figure I may be missing something so it's better to ask... | ||
| Court |
1. Service Manual available yet? 2. Parts Manual available? Not yet. I am on the list to get one the moment they become available and will advise. | ||
| Haus |
Check the lower belt guard mine was rubbing on the belt enough to put a groove in it. I ordered a led voltmeter and installed it but I have had no battery issues at all as of yet. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ponti1... I rode one of those things at Mid Ohio, and I wouldn't put much work or money into trying to get more performance out of the thing. I was on a closed track with corner workers, no cops, full safety gear, and an ambulance standing by, and the 1125r still had more power then I did guts. I was on the back straight with one more gear to go and the bike wide open when I chickened out. The GPS log showed 178mph, but there was some noise in that. I doubt I was anywhere over 155MPH (which was more then enough). Do what the racers are doing, leave the bike stock and invest your time and money getting the most out of it (i.e. track days and instruction). | ||
| Teach |
Reepicheap - I like your suggestion about leaving the bike stock, it really has more power than I could ever take advantage of. I wouldn't even change the muffler, I think Buell got it right and I think the sound and the shape match the bike perfectly. The only thing I am changing is I am putting pegs from a 12Ss on the bike. It drops the the pegs a little for us older guys.  | ||
| Court |
The best thing you can do to a new motorcycle is to leave it bone stock. . . . at least for the entire break-in period when you have confidence that the systems have settled themselves into a routine. I learned this the hard way using some perfectly good factory bikes and trying to "improve" them for distance riding. Right now . . . if I were going to undertake one of my signature "Leave NYC, to to lunch in LA and return" gigs. . . I'd take the bike, not touch it and go. That's based on experience, not theory. Your experience may vary. | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Teach, What's the change with the 12Ss foot pegs? Can you explain in more detail for me, I missed out on that tip. Thanks. | ||
| Jpfive |
Ponti, Things already happen too fast on this bike. I add my opinion to those suggesting no modifications. This is the first bike I have owned that I don't feel the need to modify for performance. I even like the exhaust. Like Teach, I think it fits the bike, and the sound is really pretty nice - and getting better. Congratulations on your purchase! Jack | ||
| Baggermike |
Breaking in the engine is the most important for the bike, I went on many websites to read everyones different ways to break it in and I suggest researching places like S&S motors, motomanns method as well as others, I do believe in one thing and is using regaler oil and change the oil and filter after fifty miles, I went way over bord and changed my oil at 50, 200, 400, 600, and 1200 hundred miles and switch to synthetic oil at 1200 miles and have one more to do at 2000 miles, I found mobile 1 for v twins in auto zone so I am switching to this brand, I have been on the K&N website looking for filters and they do not have one, I measured ours at 11.5" X 7.5" maybe a little smaller by like a 1/16" to 1/8", if you can not find what you are looking for they can make it for you, I will have to see how much this will cost, they last a life time so maybe worth it. Mike | ||
| Reepicheep |
The S pegs mod is a nice option for Buell to have left on the table for us. Basically the "R" bike pegs have the place where you perch your foot right in line with the pivot point. The "S" bikes have a peg that has the pivot point, a 1" or so vertical drop, and then it goes out to where you put your foot on it. So if you have an R bike, you can switch to the S pegs and get an extra inch of room for your legs. One inch goes a LONG way. If you have an S bike, and want the pegs higher, you can switch to the R pegs and bring your legs up another inch. The reason for the higher foot pegs is for cornering clearance before you start touching down. But even the "bad" clearance for an S bike is crazy high... more then enough for a good rider for any sort of rational street riding scenario. That would be one mod I would make to an 1125R... swap out for the S pegs. Its as non invasive as mods get, and 100% reversible. A friend of mine at work pointed out that the Honda Blackbird guys are using those Buell S pegs to do the exact same thing on their bikes with great results. | ||
| Spectrum |
1. Service Manual available yet? 2. Parts Manual available? Not yet. I am on the list to get one the moment they become available and will advise. Haha! Hey Court I finally get to quote you! That's at least partially "an inaccurate statement". I have the Parts manual right here in my hand.  Of course you are correct about the Service Manual. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Thanks a ton guys! The K&N, ECM and exhaust questions are specific to after break-in, but I think I will hit the 1000 mile mark in about a week so I thought I should ask now. The exhaust and ECM questions were a "just in case" sort of thing, but I believe you are all probably right about the thing having plenty of power. I will most likely do the K&N for better filtration over stock, rather than for actual performance gains. As for S pegs, I may go that route if I feel uncomfortable after the long ride home. Thanks for the suggestion! I have a couple other questions now... 1) Changing oil at 50 miles? I understand why you would want to do it, but should I make arrangements to stop half way back home from the dealer since my trip is almost three times that? Or, will it be fine to just buy the extra filter and change it as soon as I get home? 2) Is there an "official" 600-mile service interval AND 1000-mile service interval? The guy I've been talking to at the dealership said first 1000 miles of service is free, but I am wondering if I need to ride back there for the 600 mile mark AND the 1000 mile mark? If so, they are far enough away that I will be running back there several times in the first week or so. 3) How much do the 600 and 1000 mile services typically cost? I'm wondering if it's even worth the cost to ride all the way out there both times. | ||
| Zac4mac |
First service is at 620 miles=1000 km. Z | ||
| Doerman |
Here's a few Cliff notes I've collected regarding break in: Break in procedures are described in the Owners Manual and you would be wise to study it closely and follow it. There are a few additional break-in procedures that have been discussed on BadWeB and is worthy of consideration: Before you ride off: * The bike likes to get warmed up properly before you start riding. The coolant temp display on the ODIS flashes until it reaches 151 degrees. I make it a routine to start the bike (no throttle) and let it run until I get my gear on. That matches pretty well the time it takes for the engine to come up to riding temp. * I never blip the throttle during this period. Let the FI and ECU do its thing to get he bike ready to ride for you * I would imagine that condensation accumulating on the rear brake disk is probably not a good thing. So after starting the bike on a cold day (idling may deposit some water vapor on the disk), I ride off applying some rear brake pedal pressure to "wipe" it off. Seems to work well. You may hear some "brake groan" until it is cleaned. This is only an issue on a cool and damp morning (less than 45F) While riding (this is more about breaking you in) * The Owners Manual states to keep the rpm under 6000 for the first 300 miles and under 7500 the next 600 and to vary engine speed during this period to improve the seating and bedding in of engine components. I would closely follow that advice. * If you are used to a Buell or a Harley motor, then there's a few more things that could be of value for you to know: 1) The hydraulic clutch is different from what you are used to. It engages further out than a cable actuated clutch. Not bad or good, just different. Once you get used to it you will be pleased with it I believe. 2) Engine behavior is different as well. If you are coming off a HD or a Buell be aware that the flywheel is light and rpm range is wider. That means that feathering the clutch and keeping the rpm up over 2500 on start in gear is a must. 3) Staying above 3000 rpm in normal driving during the break in period is probably a good thing since the motor is initially tight and tend to snatch and jerk a little under 3K. What to expect during break in * There may be a bit of snatch and jerk in the driveline caused by perhaps FI stumbles and other effects as a result of break in. These get minimized at higher rpm and accentuated under 3000. I firmly believe that the bike is not the only thing getting broken in, the rider is too. So the experience is a fun one. As bikes go, and in my experience, breaking in my 1125R was pretty straight forward. * You may be exasperated by the fuel mileage during break in. Initially, I got as low as 26 average. That has greatly improved to 36 average and as high as 39 and as low as 32 when flogging it. The improvement in fuel mileage seems to be gradual over the first 1000 miles and then you're there. So initially look for a gas station after 100 miles. That improves to the "gas low" light coming on at about 130 miles after break in. Keep in mind that the fuel capacity is 5.3 gallons (it was reported at 5.6 earlier) and the reserve light comes on at 4.5-4.6 gallons. | ||
| Doerman |
... and more Cliff notes on maintenance items: Oil Check procedure There is a revised bulletin on HD net for checking oil in a hot or cold situation. The procedure is outlined in this PDF file and the fairly straight forward. Of note, make sure you are aware that the oil capacity has changed. The current capacity is 2.7 quarts when the change includes a filter and 2.4 quarts when if you do not replace the filter. The oil change procedure is discussed in the Owners Manual. Oil change Follow the owners manual. However a couple of points you might want to keep in mind: 1) When opening the drains the oil comes out very quickly! My first oil change resulted in a huge mess. It is best to have the bike vertical by using a jack or a wheel stand. Also use a piece of stiff plastic to channel the oil from the plug to the oil drain receptacle you are using. That will keep you from spilling a lot of oil on the muffler. 2) The filter comes out pretty easily but hold a rag under the filter housing as you pull it out so the oil does not run down and under the motor and on to the muffler. None of these things are big issues though. Failing to heed the warning only results in more cleanup afterwards. Air filter To get to the filter, remove the airbox cover (4 torx screws) and remove the internal airbox cover (snaps around the perimeter). The air filter is held down by two sturdy rubber bands. Pull both off to the sides and the filter comes out. I mention this because when I put the filter back on again (I took it off to clean it) I managed to leave a gap on one side. This is probably not a good thing. So when you put the filter back on look look for the following: 1) Set the edge down firmly on one side (left or right on the bike) 2) Gently pullon the filter with one hand holding it firmly in place on one side as you stretch it across. 3) Make sure you have the filter edge lip still seated in the groove on both sides by running your finger and tucking it in on both sides 4) Reattach the rubber bands. Your way of doing this is up to you. The point is to make sure the filter element is well seated on bit sides after it has been put in place again. Rear wheel removal 1) Get the rear wheel off the ground using a stand or jack or something like that (I use a rear wheel stand (Pitbull). 2) Rotate the rear wheel to align the slots in the disk with the two caliper bolts and 3) Remove the two caliper bolts (allen bolts) and rotate the caliper up and back to move it out of the way 4) Loosen the pinchbolt on the underside of the left side swingarm (left as when seated on the bike) 5) Remove axle using the tool in the tool pouch. Important: It is a left handed thread! 6) Remove upper and lower belt guard (Torx fasteners) 7) When the belt gets slack carefully move it of the pulley while rotating the wheel 8) Fully remove the axle bolt and guide the wheel to the ground 9) Remove the two caliper bolts (allen bolts) and rotate the caliper up and back to move it out of the way. 10) Pull the wheel out towards the back And that's it! Putting the wheel back on is the reverse of the dismount, but keep a couple things in mind: a) When putting the axle bolt back on: Rear axle is first tightened to 27 ft-lbs then backed out 720 degrees and re-tightened to 48-52 ft-lbs. Rear pinch bolts are tightened to 40-45 ft-lbs. Make sure you apply anti-seize on the axle before putting it back on. Avoid getting the anti-seize on the swingarm paint. It can be a pita to clean up! b) The caliper bolt torque spec is 18-20ft-lbs Front wheel removal See Draft of Shop Manual: pages 1-26 to 1-28 Miscellaneous Kickstand retraction Yes, it is designed to retract even if you ride off without putting it up. If you ride off with it down it will snap back in place and the noise it makes might be scary but nothing untoward will happen. There is a complex SAE test procedure that Buell went through to prove such a system works. It will always retract before lifting the bike at all. It does not lock in place, so please park your bike in gear! Clearing fouled plugs Its even supposed to do it automatically if it has 5 starts without reaching operating temp. Cool! Instructions to do it manually (repeat the following sequence 3 times) #1 roll and hold throttle wide open. #2 turn the ignition on. #3 wait 3 seconds. #4 release the throttle grip. #5 turn the ignition off The first appearance of a shop manual is out. It is only a draft of Chapter 1 and deals with Maintenance. I will not in the future put the whole PDF manual here, but the draft of the Maintenance section might be useful for the initial operation and care of the motorcycle. I refer to segments of shop manuals. You might obtain the draft from your dealer if you ask real nice  | ||
| Dynasport |
I just received a brochure in the mail from Buell that still states the fuel capacity at 5.6 gals, but the Buell website does say 5.3 gals. Thanks for pointing out the discrepancy. I can see that would be nice to know. | ||
| Baggermike |
I use two oil pans and put one on card bord with the kick stand in the middle of the pan, this lets the oil drain better into the pan, and makes less of a mess, I then use a second pan for the other side drain and tilt the bike way over and let it drain some more out of that side, then I have noticed when I put it back on the kick stand more oil comes out so do not put the plug back in before draining the other side, I have changed the oil four times now and got it down good so I do not make a mess, when removing the oil pan from the kick stand leave it on card bord to let the oil drip off the kick stand and wipe it down. Mike | ||
| Bigdog_tim |
Asbjorn - GREAT POST! Thank you! | ||
| Doerman |
Thanks! | ||
| Bearly |
Ponti1: About those XB12Ss lower foot pegs. You'll need to clearance the lower forward corner of them that comes in contact with the recessed box inside the mount. You'll see this when you mount them up. Here's three pics: This picture is of the right peg from under the bike. You can see the inside of peg resting on a recessed area between the peg pivot mounts.  Here's a close up of that same area.  Next is a picture of the area I worked on the bench grinder to clearance the edge of the recessed area, allowing the peg to be seated firmly.  Not an issue really. You just have to round them just a little on that corner before you use them. You can see that you don't want to take too much off, just enough to clear the edge. Just FYI.  (Message edited by bearly on April 04, 2008) | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Bearly, Great pictures! Thanks for the info. Picking up my pegs tomorrow. Will have them on pronto! | ||
| Brad1445 |
Thanks Bearly! | ||
| Ponti1 |
Bearly, thanks for the pics! Doesn't look too bad at all. I just may do this soon. Picked her up yesterday and just got home a few minutes ago. 212 miles on her now...Absolute best time I've ever had on two wheels! No pics yet because the wife has my digital camera... Need that service manual sooner than expected! Anyone with access to look up codes? At about 150 mile mark, I got two error codes: P0087 FUEL PR SYS ERR P1047 F-R AF SYS ERR Not sure if I should leave them or clear them out and see if they come back. |
