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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 21, 2008 » Miss...Stumble at 3500 RPM « Previous Next »

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Rotchcrocket51
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took a test ride on a new 1125R this week. My only previous experience on one of the bikes was at the Inside Pass track day at VIR last year. The ride included some city streets at 35-40 mph and some highway at 55-60 mph.

One of the first things I noticed was a "miss" or "stumble" at 3500 rpm in 3rd gear. It would actually shake the bike. I thought at first that it would go away once the bike warmed up, but it didn't.

Out on the highway, at 3500 rpm in 6th gear, it was still there. The engine isn't lugging at that rpm. It should run smoothly there, in my opinion.

Before we started the ride, I took it upon myself to check the oil level. On the sidestand in the showroom, cold of course, the level was over the "Overfill" mark. We checked the level at the end of the ride with the bike upright and it was way over the mark. The salesman rolled the bike back to the service department so the oil level issue could be addressed.

Could the oil level contribute to the rough running engine that I experienced or is it just characteristic of the design?
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Baggermike
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Possibly if the oil level is to high it can be forced into the intakes and that could cause problems.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have VERY limited experience at that low an RPM as it is on verge of lugging the engine and during break-in that's a no no. I probably won't get much experience down there either as I can't see much of a reason, unless you are in "parade" mode.

Valid question, but why are you so concerned at revs that low? That is not in the "fun band" and on the verge of being unhealthy to the engine. The thing idles at 1,500 RPM. Now if you said it stumbles at 4,500 RPM or even 4,000, then we have an issue.

Were you cracking the throttle wide open or rolling it on aggressively, but smoothly? I don't know the technical reasons why, but I sure some here do. I have found that at lower RPMs the smoother throttle application makes for smoother power (ie less stumbling). When you get in the "fun band" the throttle application just don't make a difference anymore!

I have also found that the bike runs better at low RPMs after break-in too. Surprise, surprise...
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Vincent
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The pulling/lugging is going to be the norm it looks like. The bike doesnt like to run in the lower rpm's, it wants to open up a bit. Above 4 grand and its smooth smooth. This was hard to get used to because I have aways ridden twins and am not used to the higher rpm line. Just shift her down and make her happy.
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Baggermike
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do not know but my bike runs real good at any rpm and feels more powerful from 2500 and up from my uly, so either something is wrong with my uly or my 1125 just runs real good and I did break it in differently then the by the book method. Mike
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Doerman
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Same experience as Mike's. I runs smoothly from 2500 and up. That was not the case for the first 700 miles or so.
I have also found that my bike runs a lot smoother if it is allowed to idle long enough after cold start to warm up properly. Riding it off cold affects the smooth operation for quite some time into the ride.
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Baggermike
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 10:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Doeman I never ride the bike until it is warmed up fully on any bike, I also never give it gas just hit start and sometimes it takes two times and then runs real good. I start the bike and then get ready and by the time I am ready then it is fully warmed up.
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Spatten1
Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The one I test rode shuddered below 4k and ran like it was being lugged badly. Over 4k it ran great.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 03:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine chatters the clutch below 2500, 3K and up is smooth.
As Doerman said, it needed more revs when new, I passed 2k miles last week.
I typically "cruise" at 3-4k rpm.

Z
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Spatten1
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The one I rode had very low miles. It may run better once the fuel system has figured out what altitude it's at. I was at your dealer Zac, High Country.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, Scott, sorry i missed you, I stop by a lot to shoot the breeze with Dave, and Roger in back.
Dave told me you came in for a test ride and liked it.

They definitely have to be broken in.
Mine was rough and flooded(my bust on technique) a couple of times. Hard starts etc.
Now with a little over 2k miles, she's very well behaved.
The power has almost bitten me in the hind-end several times, but the handling and flickability has kept us upright.

The 1125R is an amazing motorcycle. (I know I've heard that somewhere)

: )

Z
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C4bird
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure if mine is different, or it's just the way I ride, but I can let the clutch out and take off at 2000rpm no problem, no chatter or issues.

Have to keep it above 2500 in 2nd-6th or it starts to lug. No issues with lugging or and thing odd above 2500. Do notice that 3rd likes to be at 3k or above because of a little more vibration, but not a big difference (been on the bike a bit now, so starting to notice the small things)

I agree with those above, after the break in miles, everything starts to loosen up and get much smoother. If you can, give her time and she will be singing a sweet sweet song every time you ride : )
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Scott and Zack, I'm in the same boat as you guys here in Utah with altitude. I'll be getting my new 1125 soon and was wondering how well the new F.I. system is to changes in altitude. I know like here you probably have not gone up very high because of snow but was still wondering if you've seen any problems concerning altitude. My rides in good weather usually take me up and over some passes while riding the canyons. Thanks much guys for any input and stay safe. Bob
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Doerman
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I live at an altitude of 500ft here in LA and routinely go up to 6500 ft altitude on the roads in the San Gabriel mountains and the FI seems to adjust itself well.
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Rotchcrocket51
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, it's good to hear that the "hiccup" goes away with some miles. My M-2 does it a little at 35 mph around town but we are talking about two entirely different animals. I never remember my RC-51 having a "stumbling" problem, similar to what I found on the 1125.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Asbjorn, anybody else care to chime in on the F.I. ability to adjust itself to elevation changes? Bob
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Spatten1
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Due to my experience with my XB, I'd assume it's got more to do with DDFI quirks than a "tight" engine.

The XB will adjust to altitude great, if you are lucky enough to ride in the RPM and load range that allows it to learn. Problem is, Buell refuses to let anyone know the parameters that allow the DDFI2 to update. Causes problems on the dyno too, when you make a change it is tough to know how to get the ECM to adjust, or know if it has adjusted or not.

I assume that the MAP sensor on the 1125 will help. I still don't buy the tight engine theory because I've never experienced that with any other engines, I think it is just taking the FI system time to adjust, to build a new map.
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Dentguy
Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I still don't buy the tight engine theory because I've never experienced that with any other engines, I think it is just taking the FI system time to adjust, to build a new map."

I agree. The whole engine is tight thing is silly. Not trying to argue with anyone. Does anyone think that it was built tight so that when it loosens up later it will run better or that it was built tight by mistake? These things are built to very specific specs. If things were too tight they will start getting damaged meaning bearings, pistons/cylinders etc. from not enough clearance. I'm not saying it might not run better with more miles, but it's not lugging, sputtering, missing or stumbling because it is tight.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tight, let's see.
The drive belt is tight, it loosens over the first 1000 miles.
That is a "note" on page 1-18 of Jan11,2008 rough draft of service manual.

Also a major contributor to "drag" in the new engine - rings.
In a motor with this light of a flywheel, that early ring drag is significant.
Not to mention power doesn't develop until they're seated and idling suffers too.

I'm sure there are other sources, but those two are enough to notice when they've disappeared.
I am not imagining that Loretta is smoother now than when new.

Z
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Dentguy
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 01:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zac4mac,

If you are referring to my comments I wasn't talking about the belt as I said engine. I agree the belt will loosen up. As for the rings, they seat in pretty fast. The "ring drag" that you talk about will not cause issues that some in this thread and other have talked about. I have dealt with plenty of new/rebuilt engines and I don't know of any ever having driveability problems due to a tight engine. Why don't other engines in bikes or cars have the "ring drag" problem you talk about. I'm not sure what kind of "drag" you are talking about, but to think this "drag" is slowing down an engine is silly. Rings do not cause that kind of force, but they do scrape or drag if you will. It is their job.

I'm not trying to argue about this and don't want to. My original comment was to Spatten1's about the tight engine theory not being the problem. There are many things that can improve driveability problems like EFI self adjusting and riders adapting so their bikes don't lug or stumble. I will agree that this engine doesn't like to run down low like an XB. But if you think "ring drag" is significant enough to do this I will never convince you otherwise.

(Message edited by dentguy on February 25, 2008)
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Baggermike
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just got back from a ride and wanted to see how well the bike does at low rpms and I can not find any problems beside the bike shaking under 1500 rpms and I can accelerate from 2000 rmps in the lower gears no problem, and can cruise around town at 2500 rpms, and if I compared it to the ulysses and its powerband it is better from 2500 rpms and up, also the bike runs better than my sons 06 ulysses, now to go and do some more test. Mike
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike, are your electrical problems worked out to your satisfaction? Picking mine up in a few days. Bob
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the only remaining problem is runnability problems at very low RPM's due to your very high loading of the electrical system with your heated gear, let us know.

I (and several others here) would be happy to design you a simple to build circuit that will turn a relay on and off at the appropriate threshold voltages so that in the rare cases where the RPM is too low to run the gear *and* the bike, one or several of the heating components are temporarily turned off.

Glad the bike is working for you now!
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Baggermike
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Guys the bike has been flawless and has no trouble codes and left with the battery at 12.3 and rode around town for a while and came back and it is 12.4, so I here that the charging system is week and buell is working on a solution, at least that is what I am told, and was also told that the bike can not handle even high beams on in traffic, so I think now the bike is good and runs excellent even down in the lower rpms, I am happy now and just want a better charging system, Buell did put a relay on the acc outlet and that will shut off if the battery gets low, so now is a waiting game to see if Buell takes care of this problem, if not I will have my stator, rotor, and voltage regulator out to be redone but I feel that this bike was built for a street rider and should be capable of running heated gear. Mike
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Baggermike
Posted on Monday, February 25, 2008 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bob the bike is fine as of now but the charging system can not handle extras or the high beams on in traffic so I hope buell finds a solution for this problem it is not a race bike and can not believe the made a bike for the street rider that can not have the high beams on without draining the battery, so I will be doing other test but so far no trouble codes. Mike
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Dtx
Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2008 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Went for a good ride on mine today. I too noticed a miss/stumble at about 3500 RPM when accelerating. It really shook the bike as my body slid forward with momentum. Lasted like 1/2 a second, then back to normal. I was even being slow and smooth on the throttle. Hope if goes away after break in. I am at 101 miles now.

Its a GREAT motorcycle!
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Dtx
Posted on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The small hiccup at about 3.5K to 4K seems to be getting better (going away) with more miles on it. I think it has to do with applying too much throttle at 3K or less. If I am above 4K and open her up, no miss...just full power!
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