| Author | Message | ||
     Fresnobuell |
Just a quick FYI for those that might be interested in putting Amsoil into their 1125r. You can become a "preferred customer" for $10/6 months or $20/year and be entitled to wholesale prices. $7/quart for Amsoil 20W/50 synthetic (plus shipping and tax)--which puts it around SYN3 and other competitive synthetics. (Message edited by fresnobuell on February 11, 2008) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Interesting read here. It might make you think about using Amsoil--a comparison of Amsoil and leading moto sythetics including SYN3. http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/WhitePa per.aspx (Message edited by fresnobuell on February 11, 2008) | ||
| Darkice19 |
I've been using amsoil for years its great stuff. Have about 3 cases left for my trucks. I just need to buy some for my buell now. Need to see what kind my bike uses. | ||
| Zcat |
That was good reading, thanks Fresnobuell! I've always used Mobile 1 products in Bikes & automobiles. I was using the Mobile 1 car oil in my bikes before they came out with bike specific oil, then switched over to it. Years ago I attended a seminar on industrial laundry equipment maintenance and the oils & grease products most manufacturers recommended above all else was Mobile products. That industry is rough on machines with water, heat & aggressive chemicals such as acidic & caustic products used extensively so I always figured if the manufacturer's engineers recommended Mobile it must have been pretty good and I've never suffered a mechanical breakdown with any of my vehicles. However, new technologies emerge and I see Amsoil all over the bike & auto enthusiast boards being praised, plus that impressive test you referred too is convincing. I'm going to start using it in my bikes, I'm convinced it's the real deal! I was pleased to see Mobile 1 score so high, but I want to use the best and it looks like Amsoil takes that position now. | ||
| Spectrum |
Amsoil will be going in my bike once it reaches the 2K mark. Currently using Syn3 until then. Of interesting note: At least one HD dealership here in the Charlotte area is an Amsoil dealer and recommends it over Syn3. (Message edited by spectrum on February 12, 2008) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Thanks for that link Fresno, I have a can of Amsoil All purpose spray grease. It's almost ten years old and almost empty. Best assembly grease I've ever found. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/glcspray.aspx Zack | ||
| Baggermike |
I found lucas synthetic racing 20/50 oil in pep boys for 7 dollars a quart, it is in the car section and does not say for bikes but I was reading the back and said good for turbo charge cars and especially Harley Davidson motorcycles, so that is what I am using and is close by and easy to get. Mike | ||
| Dfbutler |
When I first used the Amsoil 20/50 in my tranny I thought I'd gotten a new transmission, it shifted so much smoother. | ||
| Ducxl |
It all comes down to preference.But Amsoil is NOT a true synthetic oil.Mobil-1 IS Lucas IS.But,again,as a class-III synthetic,Amsoil isn't a true synthetic | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Hey Baggermike, you might want to look at the Amsoil report as Lucas High Performance Motorcycle Oil was one of the lowest performing oils, esp. in the critical tests like viscosity and sheering. You might be using a different Lucas oil, but I would look elsewhere if it were me. Mobil 1 V-Twin is easy to find if that is you main concern. | ||
| Baggermike |
I will check it out but around here mobil 1 is hard to find for some reason, also I do not believe what a company say's and I change my oil ever 2000 miles or less if I run it hard for a good amount of time like a day at the track I would change before and after, but that is just me. Mike | ||
| Baggermike |
Does anyone know the difference in car verses bike oil like mobil 1 car oil verses mobil 1 bike oil, I would be using mobil 1 if I could find it but the only oil I can find for bikes around were I live is Lucas 20/50 synthetic racing oil. Mike | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Yes, I agree that the fact that the Amsoil conducted the test must be taken into account, but this looks pretty legit to me. I think it is a very well done report with plenty of interesting information if you read it completely. At least it's a guideline... Take it for what it's worth. | ||
| Ducxl |
seems very biased,especially since Amsoil is technically NOT synthetic as a CLASS-III oil | ||
| Fresnobuell |
seems very biased,especially since Amsoil is technically NOT synthetic as a CLASS-III oil You can believe what you want to believe. MAYBE Amsoil is just better then the competition and the test and subsequent report just proves it. Really when you look at the 11 individual tests (excluding price comparison) that comprised the study, Amsoil was NOT the best oil in 4 of the tests, tied with other oils for best oil in 5 of the tests & finished alone as the best oil in only 2 of the tests. Also, does it really matter if Amsoil is not TECHNICALLY a synthetic if it performs like it does? | ||
| Spectrum |
Amsoil is technically NOT synthetic as a CLASS-III oil Hmm technically not exactly true. Amsoil has both group III and Group IV products. The XL line of Amsoil products are Group III, all other Amsoil motor oil products are Group IV just like Mobil-1. Castrol is a Group III synthetic which means it is blended from petroleum base stocks Synlube even claims Mobil-1 is not a true synthetic because it's not blended with 100% chemically formed base stock oils. | ||
| Ducxl |
Quote: "Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils (only in the USA - in the European Union, Group III can NOT be classed as synthetic), Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV). " So are the examples in the link at the top Class IV or Class V? What are the Amsoil examples of "Class-IV" and "Class-V" synthetic oils? This would be important to the cyclists that desire a true synthetic and not "Hydrocracked" synthetic oil | ||
| Ducxl |
The XL line of Amsoil products are Group III, all other Amsoil motor oil products are Group IV just like Mobil-1. Oh,ok,that says it | ||
| Old_man |
I replaced the Syn 3 with the Mobil 1 15W50 and the bike seems to run better and cooler. I can buy Mobil 1 15W50 just about anywhere. | ||
| Ducxl |
THat's what i use. Wow,the internet is a wonderful thing.I've been scouring sites."Bob is the oilguy" is a cool forum. Not much though specifying whom makes what regarding Groups-III IV and V. One quote has Mobil1 as the only readily available "PAO" oil | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anybody seen any tests of the Wal Mart branded synthetic? It's not 20w50 that I have found, so this isn't really a Buell question, but I run it in my Toyota Sienna (which has an engine that can sludge). $13 or so for a 5 quart container... so the price is outstanding. I don't use it with extended synthetic change intervals, just the normal change intervals. | ||
| Baggermike |
I can not find mobil 1 around were I live and wish I could, I did read the Amsoil report and it did not have the lucas oil I have been using and since I will be changing the oil every 2000 miles I think it is good enough, but if I could get mobil 1 I would use it. Mike | ||
| Gearhead |
I am also an AmsOil preferred customer. I used it in my Firebolt, my wife's 883 and my XB12R racebike. I've been very impressed with the results in all three bikes. I'll break in the 1125R, then switch without hesitation! | ||
| Blake |
Beware any oil performance report put out by... a company seeking to market their own oil. Independent testing is best. Castrol is a Group III synthetic which means it is blended from petroleum base stocks Group III synthetics are not made by "blending" petroleum base stocks. They are derived from petroleum, kind of an ultra-hyper-refining of petroleum lubricant base stocks, keeping only the very best hydrocarbon molecules and throwing away all the rest, the mediocre and the not so wonderful ones, the molecules that in standard oil break down and offer inferior lubricating properties. I don't care how an oil is derived. My only concern is how it performs. | ||
| Spectrum |
You are correct Blake, poor choice of words on my part to say "blended". On another interesting note from doing research on Mobil-1. There is a lot of talk on other forums about Mobil-1 on longer being a Group IV oil but rather now a Group III Oil. Google "Mobil 1 is no longer a Group IV synthetic". Can't find anything that says definitely one way or another. Opinions seem to run that: Mobil-1 = Group III Mobil-1 Extended Performance = Group IV I did find this on on of the Amsoil dealer sites(edited for length): AMSOIL Feature Articles: Mobil 1 Comparisons? - See our current tests. Mobil 1 would rather you spend more money at the EXXONMobil pump. Mobil 1 no longer has the 100% Synthetic label on the bottles as they have switched to lower priced Group III base stocks. Per the FTC you can say "Full Synthetic" without an ounce of PAO manmade synthetic base stocks. But you can't label them as 100% unless they truly are. The new Mobil 1 Extended Performance is now currently API licensed but it still does not meet all the ACEA (European specifications) such as AMSOIL Engine oils. AMSOIL's lower cost XL Series "Full Synthetic" is also licensed and meets the requirements of GL-4. It's price more reflects what Mobil 1 customers should be paying. | ||
| Slypiranna |
True "Oil" specifics are far beyound this thread of which brand or scope to be conclusive...I believe. Bearing clearances, fluid circuit design, sheer strenght and or friction modification,(being a wet clutch and trans in the mix)...along with more than only Rotax and or Buell could recommend concerning a warranty issue...so they recommend HD Syn3, (I would too...wouldn't you?!) or the compliant rating to sub. I personally talked with a lifetime owner of a reputable Buell dealer recently, he has used Mobil 1 syn (auto and or whatever is on the bottle) and never had a failure related to this topic...including Italian bikes, jap bikes and HD's or his personal 4wheeled++ transport. For me, If the rating is as the manufacture states ok...that'll do as bikers usually fall close to hot rodders in the car arena and change oil too often than needed. Bottom line, use what YOU are most proud to advertise or "sold" upon because thats all I see as the difference after 20 years testing and tuning on 1000+hp dyno, street and strip...all powerplants and clearances inclusive...the only thing we ever changed was the weight based upon ambient temps and bearing tolerance. This subject is as old as some days are long in a hands on atmosphere!  ...so please don't take this the wrong way. | ||
| Slypiranna |
...almost forgot conductivity...heat that is...as this is what oil does the best at...carry away the heat from the friction surface that it supports through it's minor clearance to flow through. nuff said I think...but it can go on and on I'm sure...have fun! | ||
| Bigdaddy |
I'm a believer in synthetics. I use it in all my bikes, my truck, and my WRX. The M2 will consume 20w-50 of the fossil variety to the point of having to add some oil prior to the change interval. Mobil1 will go 3K miles with no need to add. | ||
| Baggermike |
Here are the specs from Lucas oil Exceeds all American and European OEM specifications for API SM/SL/SJ/CF, ACEA A3-98, B3-98, B4-98, VW 5000/502/503/505/506, Daimler Chrysler 229.1, BMW Long life Oil. Lucas synthetic 20w-50 A true high performance Synthetic Racing Oil. Lucas Synthetic 20W-50 Racing Oil is a blend of only the finest synthetic base oils plus an exclusive additive package that. 1 GUARANTEES lower oil temperature (Longer oil life and less metal fatigue). 2 Provides a tougher, thicker oil film for maximum protection against metal to metal contact. 3 Has anti-seize agents and lubricity agents for faster acceleration and more rpm's. 4 Protects against oil cavitation or foaming (important in high revving engines,) 5 Resists break down from contact with racing fuels at least 50% longer than conventional racing oils. The perfect lubricant for the high temperatures of turbo charged engines. Slows oil burning and raises oil pressure in worn engines. For any situation that requires a heavier oil add Lucas oil stabilizer to gain desired viscosity. Controls heat and wear in high performance heavy duty motorcycles, especially Harley Davidson's. Expect more miles between overhauls. Made in the U S A www.Lucas Oil.com Super Slick extra long lasting pure synthetic. that is all the info on the bottle. Mike | ||
| Slypiranna |
To raise oil pressure in a worn engine...ie, excessive bearing clearance...you must have a thicker based weight or solids within that oil...that being said, your power via the oil pump and all related (good tolerace passages and or clearances) fluid paths must figure in a pressure and or flow drop. In that end, that engine will develope less total end usable power than would be developed with the proper designed lubricant from the getgo. It takes power to push what protection some advertise as being benefitial in the end. I'm also positive that it will take longer for that fluid to reach normal pressure and or contact within an engine's fluid path to reach rotational contact after start up. Think about that for a moment...as this is when most engine wear happens.}} |
