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Bad_karma
Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2008 - 02:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are the batteries on this bike physically and electrically smaller than the one on tubers?
Joe
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Baggermike
Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Measured the battery and is 6" wide 3.75 tall and 5.75 deep, do not know what my uly has it is in the shop so I can not measure it. Mike
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike:

I think I said this before, a larger battery will not help your problem. Granted I'm no electrical engineer (just a Mechanical Engineer) but the solution to your issue is to increase the wattage of the alternator.

Some of you EE's please chime in here. I hate to burst your heating bubble but, that's the laws of electricity.

To give you a better idea, my Honda ST1300 has a 740w alternator and a 14ah/ 210cca battery. Granted the battery is a little bigger in CCA (14 vs 12) and AH (210vs200) but, the alternator has 42% more charging capacity (432/740). This extra 42% allows me to run my electrical goodies and, still charge the battery.

You did a rough estimate some where else and you had minimal watts leftover. I have a neat little spreadsheet that will do the calculations for you. Here it is:
application/vnd.ms-excel1125rLoadCalc
1125rload-budget.xls (11.3 k)


Some numbers were carry over from my ST but the others were from 1125r spec page. Should be close. Add in the published watts from Gerbing: Jacket=77, Classic Gloves=27, Socks=27, Pants=44. Then you can see what you have left over.

Later
Neil S.

(Message edited by ccryder on January 14, 2008)
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Baggermike
Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Neil, that will help but was just answering bad karma's question to the batterie size. I know what I need to know which is the watts being produced at 3000 to 4000 rpms, then I can figure out what it can handle, so I need a electrical meter that can measure amps and watts so I can figure out what I can run, I have changed my gear yesterday and left with 12.3 volts and came home with 12.2 volts, and was only using 70 watts the same if I had the high beams on, I should have ridden with my high beams on to and that would have told me allot. now will check out that site you gave me and see if that helps so thanks for helping. Mike
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Ccryder
Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 11:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I fixed the Excel file:
application/vnd.ms-excel 1125rLoadA
1125rload-budgetA.xls (11.8 k)


Neil S.
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Neil I was looking thru the owners manuel and say's a totally charged battery is 12.7 I had my battery tender on overnight and the light was green meaning fully charged but when I did diagnostic mode it read 12.3 which is 50% charge, I think the next step is to take the battery to get load tested to see if it passes that test, this is weird and maybe the bike being on has something to do with the low reading, should have been 12.7 not 12.3 and when I got home using 70 watts the same as if I had the high beams on read 12.2, this is getting confusing and I need the proper equipment to figure this out. Mike
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike did you do Diag mode in park or run?

Going to DM in run turns on the headlights, an almost 6 Amp draw. You'll be several tenths below open voltage.

Going into DM from Park is just running lamps, about 1 Amp. Much closer to open voltage with smaller load.

Also the Tender may call full charge something different than BMC.

Z
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

did not think of doing that, thanks I will try it tomarow, got the charger on my nephews bike now. Now yesterday my son and I went for a ride he rode the blast and had heated gloves and when I put his bike on the charger it turned to green in less than five minutes, it also did this when I rode it with more gear on, it is listed as putting out less power but find this strange and when I put my bike on the charger it takes hours to recover, so I am taking the battery to have a load test after charging it, I also am going to put the charger on the bike to see how much it lost while sitting over night, my nephew bought a 2006 sportster and had a 2004 battery in it? now how did that happen, and with the new battery it will not start under forty degrees. Mike
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Vincent
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Battery problems here as well guys. I let the bike sit for a few days here while it was chili, not really that cold and attempted to crank with no results. Dead battery triggered the engine light as well as initiating a sporadic response from cooling fans. Jumped it off and has ran fine since after bike charged it up. There was no use of heated gear so I'm starting to believe we received a below par battery. Will find out more later today when I also get it tested.
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Bigblock
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 02:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had my bike not start after sitting for 4 days. I then took it to the dealer, after charging it at 10 amps for 1 1/2 hour before it would start. They installed the CA cat muffler, and they tested the battery, said it needed a day on the trickle charger there, and that the voltage and load test on the battery was good after that.

The charging system seemed to test good, they said it was putting out 14.6 volts. Seems to be fine after that, but hasn't sat more than a day since.

I also suspect that with grips, vest ( 50 watt) and hi beams running, I am darn near at the capacity of my charging system, if not past it.

Not sure of that either, though.
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Smoke
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 05:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

still have not found the way to diagnostic mode-only setup. WHAT'S THE SECRET? please bring me up to speed.
thanks,
tim
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 07:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tim-

Press both the MODE and TOGGLE at the same time, then turn to RUN(lights on, battery under load, and you can start/run in DM this way)

OR

Turn the forks all the way to the left and turn the key to PARK while holding the buttons.
In this mode, the parking lights are on and the battery is very lightly loaded.
There should be a small difference in the voltages, loaded(lights on) should be .4-.5 V less.

The display will immediately say DIAG MODE and when you release the buttons, it will say VIEW CODES.

Press TOGGLE to advance thru the menu.
Still haven't found out how to clear the error buffer.

Zack
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Zack Thanks, how do you get any work done responding to all these questions? I did the battery diognostic in park and read 12.3 going to 12.2, I just hooked up my battery tender to it and will try to watch it to see how long it takes to go to green, also got a voltage error po562 along with comm error u0001 and fuel system error p0193, I am going to try to find the customer service number for buell to talk to them about this when the light turns green, do you know the number. Thanks Zack again. Mike
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

took half hour to go to green then did the diognostic mode in park and it read 12.4 but then went to 12.3, calling buell tech now will let you guys know if I find out anything. Mike
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have those same error codes Mike.
Sure wish somebody'd tell us how to zero the error buffer.

Well, I called Customer Service and got Nuttin. I'm sorry, we can't tell you that. You'll have to take it to the dealer.

Sorry, I'm not paying 94 bucks an hour for somebody to push a friggin button.

She did say the Shop Manuals should be shipping in a month or so...

Z
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Zack got the same response, but they are under warranty so why would you have to pay? OK now it took 30 minutes for the battery tender to go to green so I did the diognostic in park and got 12.4 volts, then dropped to 12.3 volts which the owners manual say's is 50% charge and 12.7 is 100% charged, I feel like I am in school learning about motorcycles electrical systems? will bring the bike back to the dealer when the roads clear up, just got a foot of snow and do not want to ride on salt, hopefully soon they will clear up, just got 1000 miles on it and changed to synthetic oil and now can not worry about breaking the bike in. I got a spare bike to ride, a buell blast I bought cheap for my son to learn on, so I will ride that for now, but if the owners manual is right I need a new battery, so now I will research batteries, and see if I can get the facts on them and see what is available for my bike. Thanks guy's for all your help. Mike
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Andella
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My battery was not charged well either. I went to go for a ride Sunday only to find it almost completely dead, just a faint amount of light from the running lights. I use no extra electrical equipment and had only driven the bike once prior(60 miles). I put it on a battery tender and haven't checked it since due to the shi$@% weather.
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike, I have been following this thread for quite a while now and did not have anything to add until now. Maybe you DO have a bad battery or maybe your battery tender is not quite up to snuff. I say this because when I take my tender off charge on my M2 and do a voltage test immediately my voltage always reads well over 13 volts and does not diminish for several hours then steadies at 12.77. It also usually drops off to 12.2 or so after a week of not charging and has died (showing only about 4 volts) while on a three week vacation when it was not on charge. Just thought I'd add a little here and do not mean to confuse further. Bob
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Andella take the battery to pep boys or some other store that will load test the battery when it get fully charged, they will load test it, this is what I am going to do, the battery is suppose to be 12.7 volts at full charge and mine can only go to 12.3 which is only 50% charge, just got off the phone with service and say said 12.7 is right and if you look in the owners manual it will say the same. Mike
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Bob that helps allot, I think it is the battery that is the problem now and hope it is the only problem. I expected some problems with an all new bike that was probably rushed into production for buells 25th annerversity. Mike
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Bob_thompson
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike as one last thing to exclude; do a voltage check on the output of your battery tender. It should be at least 13.5 volts and let us know how the load test comes out. Stay cool my friend. Wait your in Mass. Stay warm my friend. Bob
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 07:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Bob, I do not have a way of testing it and also tried to plug a light into it and would not flow voltage, if I hook it up to the bike will the bikes battery voltage meter read the battery tender. Mike
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Travelingman
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have similar battery gremlin problems. I go on business trips and come back and battery is/was dead. We did a poor mans load test at dealer and alternator shows to be charging battery. So we are in the monitoring mode now.

However, dealer put a loaner in bike while they left mine on trickle charge for a few days. I just picked it up and have it on a charger here at the house. I think I'll leave it there for a week.

And speaking of replacing the battery. You have to take the tail plastics off and remove a relay out of the way to get the battery out. Me and the service techs are going through on the job training figuring things out since they haven't been to school and I don't have a manual.
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Baggermike
Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Travelingman I thought I had to do that, do you know if this battery fits other bikes, I want to get a odyssey battery and wrote them with the demensions of the battery, mine I am pretty sure is bad but will bring it to the dealer for them to check it out, but the manual says the battery should read 12.7 and mile reads 12.3 after a fifty mile ride, buell told me to take it to a dealer has a voltage code that they would not tell me but will tell the teck guys. Mike
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Travelingman
Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Baggermike:

The battery does fit other bikes in Harley line I just can't tell you which ones right now. Mechanic used a loaner battery from a 2006 something?

My dealer is Gruene Harley in New Braunfels, TX. Service guys are great, we are learning mechanics of this bike together. When I bring loaner battery back I'll ask the specific older models this battery fit.
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Baggermike
Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 08:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Travelingmam, I want to buy a odyssey battery for my bike so I can have piece of mind for years to come, and if you think a bigger battery could fit let me know if that is possable to. Mike
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Travelingman
Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Baggermike:

The Part Number of the battery is:

Harley PN: 65958-04 Code Number J7

Hope this helps
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Ebear
Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey USROUTE66....you getting this?

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Baggermike
Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Travelingman I will call Odyssey batteries to see if the have one that will fit the bike. Mike
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Bobup
Posted on Friday, January 18, 2008 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zac

I'ld be willing to bet that you can't clear the codes, and that it is only the last 20 (guessing #) errors that are stored.
So the oldest error would drop off after the buffer is full and a new error comes up

but I could be wrong too........LOL

(Message edited by bobup on January 18, 2008)
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