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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through January 08, 2008 » New problem and Riding impressions « Previous Next »

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Josh_
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New 1125R electrical problem:

So I went for a ride today, long story short I lost all electrical power as I pulled up to a friend's house.

Fortunately said friend is a long time master mechanic and former crew chief for HD's NHRA Pro Stock team. 2 minutes later we find a blown fuse in the main (only?) fuse block. The one marked "Battery".
Most interesting part? The markings on the fuse block cover say the "Battery" fuse should be 30A. The blown one is 15A. Ooops. No spares included with the bike, but we scrounged up a 25A from his toolbox.

Other owners might want to go check that fuse for themselves.


Fuse



Riding impressions:
Mirrors and rear brake suck. (after 380 miles I discovered the correct adjustment procedure for the mirrors : move your head until you can see out of the mirror)
Lots of vibes over 5k RPM, hope that goes away with break-in
need a lot more practice with the clutch, I killed it 5 or 6 times.
some of that may be that it hates running under 3200RPM. Lots of bad noises and bucking (sounds like a loose primary chain?)
good feel on the front brake, but not as strong as I remember from Inside Pass?
34MPG (380miles so far)
It is possible to turn off the backlight for the display while driving. At night. Oops.
amazing in corners, but not as much "umph" as my FJR powering out of them.
I really need to adjust the suspension
Nice tool kit, but spare fuses would be nicer
I need to replace the pegs, metal pegs would make it easier to slide my foot forward for the shifter
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

my tool kit has fuses, and the only problem I have is the battery is not good, put it in dio mode and it is charging up to 14.3 or more, but will not heat my heated gear that good, and the check engine light will come on, and as I rev the engine it goes off, and when I took my heated gear off, no more problems, the battery read 11.9 when I got home, and is on the charger now, which I have on every nite, got to take the battery out and have it load tested, but everything else is very good. Mike
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Josh_
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

sounds like the stator or regulator, not the battery?
Just for kicks (It won't fix your problem, I'm just wondering) take a look at your "Battery" fuse and see what amp its rated at.
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Baggermike
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Josh, there are a couple trouble codes but no one no what they are, one is system voltage p0562, comm error u0001, fuel system poo87 and po 193, I have a used blast that powers my gear better and my sons ulysses is good to go but this bike has a few bugs, I did notice the voltage was jumping all over the place when I was trying to read it and do not know if this is normal or not. Mike
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The battery fuse is uninstalled at delivery to the dealership. Part of the PDI is to install the fuse. If your dealer didn't think to look in your toolkit, your fuse is still in the bag : )

And before anyone flames a dealer...there is nothing in the paperwork that says "fuse located in toolkit". I know, I had a hand in the PDI of our first bike and found it myself the hard way.
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Josh_
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HMMM now that's interesting, I would have assumed the fuses were all pre-installed. I'll double-check the took kit too.... Ding! found 30A fuse in corner of toolkit after removing tools

PDI has just one fuse being installed?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, when they crate it, the 30 A battery fuse is removed.

I pulled my tool bag out when we decrated Loretta and there was a loose 30A fuse for the battery and a couple of spares in a little ziplock bag at the bottom.
I had to put the fuse in so I could turn the key on and see that show happen on the ODIS, for the first time.

Z
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Blake
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Josh and Thanks RatBuell! Excellent!
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2008 - 11:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They ship with the battery "disconnected" (no fuse) to prevent any battery drain if the bike lives in its crate for too long.

Like we're gonna leave any 1125r's in a crate.

It's easier and more reliable than just unhooking the neg cable - bouncing around could put it in contact and cause problems in the box.

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Josh_
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


1125R

(credit to DaveO)

Corrected riding impressions:
Mirrors and rear brake suck. (after 380 miles I discovered the correct adjustment procedure for the mirrors : move your head until you can see out of the mirror)
Lots of vibes over 5k RPM, hope that goes away with break-in
need a lot more practice with the clutch, I killed it 5 or 6 times.
some of that may be that it hates running under 3200RPM. Lots of bad noises and bucking (sounds like a loose primary chain?)
good feel on the front brake, but not as strong as I remember from Inside Pass?
34MPG (380miles so far)
It is possible to turn off the backlight for the display while driving. At night. Oops.
amazing in corners, but not as much "umph" as my FJR powering out of them.
I really need to adjust the suspension
I need to replace the pegs, metal pegs would make it easier to slide my foot forward for the shifter
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 02:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're over half-way there Josh.
Yup, she doesn't have a Lump in her.
Not as much torque down low, but lots more up top (in a few more miles).
Cruising thru town, stay one or two gears lower than you would with a Lump.
Break in your brakes -
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.s html
(Thanks for that link 1324)
Don't play with display while riding at night. : )
Check the owner's manual, set the suspension to suggested for weight AND temperature.
Swap the rider and passenger pegs - then you have the "old style" pegs like a Firebolt, all metal.

Mine was kinda rough running , the first part of "break-in".
I've got almost 900 miles now and she's much smoother and well mannered.
She still doesn't like being lugged, suspect she never will.

Enjoy chasing the rev-limiter in 240 miles.

Zack
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Interex2050
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 02:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And oh boy is that chase ever so exciting...
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Xb9
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The lump has so much rotating mass (flywheel) weight that it doesn't mind to be lugging. This is a modern engine that spins up over 10 grand - with much less rotating mass on the crankshaft to accomplish that. Luggability is the price we pay for higher RPM's and performance.
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1324
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad I could be of service Zac...hopefully this will spread the word of how important it is.
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