| Author | Message | ||
     Xb9er |
Not sure if this was asked, but what will be the break in period consist of? What will be the service rituals(milage). | ||
| Curtyd |
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I know, a sacrilege to some who say never REV over 5K in the first 1000 miles. I never have done it that way and never will. The Motors all end up oil-tight with lots of power too. | ||
| Anonymous |
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I do not recall the engine break in process. I think from the bikes I've broken in it was 6K and under for the first 500 kilometer and under 7K for the next 500 km. Maybe one of the other engineers can correct me if I'm wrong. However, it is certainly NOT the posted website!!! That site breeds misinformation and is NEVER to be used for breaking in an engine. After all, BRP has done a lot of testing and therefore knows best! | ||
| Jaimec |
Right. I've seen that site before and I don't care what it says... NO ONE knows more about the motorcycle engine than the engineers that DESIGNED it, so it's THEIR advice I'll take, not some third party on the internet whose got nothing to lose if I grenade my brand new motorcycle. | ||
| Brad1445 |
Break In Smeak In, This is a friend behind me one hour after I picked up my 2006 Triumph Spring, he is on a 600RR. This is how I do all my bikes and have never had an engine problem yet. http://web.mac.com/brad1445/iWeb/MyShit/Break-In.h tml | ||
| Court |
I'm with Jaime. Follow the manufacturers recommendations. Simple. | ||
| Jiffy |
I like the idea of the manufacturer being right about break-in but you can't tell me they aren't full of it sometimes too. Every bike Kawasaki makes has the same break in...I'm no engineer but that makes no sense. You doubt the other guys break in...many racers, engine builders, etc. have said that is the correct way for any motor... to give it heat cycles etc. Keeping it under 5K doesn't tell the rider about the problems that will occur if you lug the motor at 3k all day on the highway to get the 3,000 miles. Doesn't matter people do their own thing and that is ok. To each their own. | ||
| Curtyd |
If you break a stock unmodified motor by driving it within the rev limits set at the factory it is a warranty claim. If it wasn't, they would be obligated to install motors in the bike that are pre delivery already broken in. What is the point of a warranty if it was otherwise? | ||
| Regkittrelle |
There is more to a recommended break-in procedure than the motor. This may, or may not apply to Buell. Every manufacturer is concerned with a rider's ability to adapt to and control their product. This is particularly true with very high performance machines. If the owner... the logic goes...can be brought along progressively in the motorcycle's use they ultimately will be a more competent rider. The book on Stupid Motorcycle Tricks is full of too much throttle, too soon stories. This is not meant to imply that mechanical break-in period is unnecessary but, as with everything, the subject is a bit more convoluted than it first appears. | ||
| Court |
>>>The book on Stupid Motorcycle Tricks is full of too much throttle, too soon stories. Someone call? | ||
| M1combat |
"You doubt the other guys break in...many racers, engine builders, etc. have said that is the correct way for any motor... to give it heat cycles etc. " Race engines for one are built loose. They aren't meant to go 100K miles. They're built with tolerances that you would see in an already broken in engine. | ||
| Jaimec |
M1combat basically said what I've said here MANY times: Whenever you see the word "Racing use" substitute "Disposable" and you have it. Unless, of course, you guys tear down and rebuild your bikes after every weekend ride. Long story short: It's your bike, do what you want with it. | ||
| Bob_thompson |
I agree with most thats been said up to this point concerning race vs. street engines that need to be long lived. I am wondering one thing though about the new 1125's being shipped, evidently with full synthetic oil in it, and how well the rings will seat in properly. Ideally there should not be any oil that gets between the compression rings and the cylinder walls due to the oil ring seal but would it be better to change to regular oil immediately for a short time and then back to full synthetic after break in. Some high end cars ship with full synthetic such as Z06 Corvettes with evidently no problem and they have a good warranty. Whatever the case I will most probably go with what the Buell engineers suggest. Anybody with an opinion on this? | ||
| Alchemy |
A buddy has a Z06 and they are hand tuned (on a dyno?) at the factory to have at least 505 HP. Then the performance tuner signs the engine. The owner can even see a picture/poster of who did the final tune on the engine. Pretty slick marketing. Maybe they tune with dino oil and then fill with synthetic for shipment. Seems it in effect might get the motorman method of breakin with a few run ups on the dyno to max HP. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Having been to the factory, and personally seen bikes run to red line in nearly all the gears, I can say with absolute certainty that they aren't following the procedure outlined in the manual. Evidently, those procedures are for people who shouldn't be running their motorcycles to red line in any gear, ever. Can you imagine the legal carnage that would result if a manufacturer put in their owners manual, "Run it to red line and coast back down several times". I would imagine after a few newbie riders were scraped off the pavement, the book would be changed to, "Don't exceed 4000 rpm."  | ||
| Mikef5000 |
There was an american chopper episode where they used a name brand, reputable V-twin. First thing they did was ride the bike over to the dyno and run a couple passes. No sooner did I turn to my father and say "That's good for a brand new engine", did it seize up. The look on all their faces what great. Next day they tore it apart, decided it was not repairable, and they got a whole new motor. Since I can't afford a new engine, I'll break mine in per Mfgr. recommended specs. | ||
| Djkaplan |
There is a big difference in seating new rings and breaking an entire motorcycle engine in. You have to remember that it's not only the rings themselves, but the transmission that needs to 'wear' into itself properly. You need to vary the load and heat cycle the entire system for a proper break in an engine and not gall parts that have critical clearances with each other. The heat treatment of the gears may be compromised if the load isn't varied and heat cycled. The proper way to do this is exactly what is recommended by the factory. If it's just new rings on a top end, then it isn't critical. Have at it if you want, but I'd still follow the ring manufacturers advice. Why anyone would argue with the factory engineers on this subject is way beyond my reasoning skills. It's not like they have it out for us... just the opposite I would think. | ||
| Anonymous |
It's amazing what kind of information today's newfangled DDFI computer processors can store... | ||
| Garrett2 |
maybe i missed it, but seriously - what kind of breakin will be wanted for these things? | ||
| Alchemy |
Hummmm.... Sounds like anonymous is hinting that there might be a "blackbox" memory cache in the computer. It certainly know a lot of information and could store a profile for the last few hundred _____ (miles etc, fill in the blank) | ||
| Jiffy |
Varying the load is exactly what is promoted at that other website people speak of. | ||
| Hootowl |
"I am wondering one thing though about the new 1125's being shipped, evidently with full synthetic oil in it, and how well the rings will seat in properly" The cylinders are nicasil lined. From what I understand, nicasil lined bores are smooth, not ball honed like a steel liner would be. There may not be much wear on break-in if that is the case. Also, many auto manufacturers use synthetic oil as original fill, and they don't seem to have problems. I'm betting it won't be an issue. Jeff (Message edited by hootowl on August 20, 2007) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
maybe i missed it, but seriously - what kind of breakin will be wanted for these things? I think from the bikes I've broken in it was 6K and under for the first 500 kilometer and under 7K for the next 500 km. | ||
| Curtyd |
"It's amazing what kind of information today's newfangled DDFI computer processors can store..." Anonymous. So, I guess this chip will verify the story Chad told us above about the engine being pegged WAY past the recommended RPM range intended for the owner ... ...before it even left the factory!!! That could make for interesting warranty fighting, don't you think? That knife cuts BOTH WAYS, but I'd guess now there will be a new prep instruction at the factory to be sure to... "scrub" that chip before it leaves the line ;) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I don't know exactly what you're talking about, but I know the bikes they are producing and testing now are all preproduction, and will not ever be for sale, so they can abuse the piss outa them! Hell, MAKE them explode! Find out the weakest link! See if it can be beefed up before production! | ||
| Xlcrguy |
sorry, but bikes on rolls test at the factory are NOT "run to red line in nearly all the gears". Not sure what factory you were touring there, chad!  BTW, the bikes are shipped with traditional dino juice for initial break-in and synthetic is recommended thereafter. | ||
| Court |
>>>I know the bikes they are producing and testing now are all preproduction, and will not ever be for sale All (make that ALMOST all) the 1125R you are seeing, including the one's being ridden by the media for the first time starting yesterday, will be destroyed and (damnit) there is a complete process to document the destruction. Yes. . . some "special" motorcycles have escaped and are in good hands. | ||
| Pammy |
The ignition usually records info for a limited amount of time. So that particular knife only cuts one way. We have been using this technology for a number of years. You only need about 15 minutes or so to get an idea of any problems. And certainly 15 minutes up until a motor may seize or grenade is plenty to see what occured leading up to the 'catastrophic moment'. Heat cycling is important in breaking in a new motor, above all. The rings should be seated within 50 miles or so. If they aren't, it may never happen. But ALL the parts in the motor are new and should be given time to expand and contract together. And if there should be a problem, with something new and unproven, do you really want to be at the limit of the power band when that happens? I don't. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Pammy, are you for or against break in per the manual? | ||
| Curtyd |
I don't understand the big deal on the mototune break-in. All it is on the street is; 1. Warm it up 2. Numerous short bursts of hard, not gradual, acceleration and deceleration in; 3. 2nd gear, 4. 3rd gear, 5. and in 4th gear, and FINALLY... 6. Change the oil. All done in under 25 miles or so. This could be how most of us drive anyway. The dyno break-in is a little more specific but still says, warm it up, then 3 1/2throttle bursts and deceleration, COOL DOWN, then 3 3/4 throttle bursts and deceleration, COOL DOWN and then hit 100% throttle 3 times and CHANGE the OIL. It's not that radical and not that different than how most of us drive. The only difference is the abandonment of the prohibition of never exceed 4 or 5K rpm in the first 1000 miles. I just never have subscribed to that method and the last motors I "grenaded" on a regular basis were old air-cooled pushrod VW engines, and those were just a case of too little motor, bad-cooling and too much weight to push around. Not a problem with my motorbikes. (Message edited by CurtyD on August 21, 2007) |
