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Aesquire
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 10:28 pm: | 
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1. Just run the stupid synthetic oil. It won't coke like dino oil WILL, and the myths about break in are.....myths. Really.
2. The MOST important part of the "motoman's" ideas IMHO are to change the oil soon, & often for the first few miles. Cheap for the results. For example, after the first ride (or ring seating as per Curtyd, above ) Then, after 200 miles, 500, 1000, then recommended per manual. You do want to get the little metal bits out before they clog the filter or weld to the engine.
3. Factory approved break in is a psycho nightmare. I know, I did it with my M2, mostly. Don't lug, and vary the rpm's, keeping it low at first then faster is just good sense. You may go insane, but that's the only bad thing. The new bike paranoia/rational constant checking is a good thing. Changing your oil at 25 miles is fanatic, but wise, I think. |
Jimidan
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2007 - 08:53 am: |
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The factory knows that most new owners of a sportbike do NOT have the patience to break an engine in by the best method, so they give them the don't exceed "x" RPM for 500 miles thingy. It is a compromise really, and it is better than nothing. Like Pammy says, heat cycling is the key to proper break-in.
The best method, according to an expert that I think has forgotten more about breaking-in an engine than most will ever know, would include several idle only timed heat cycles before the bike even hits the road, beginning with 30 seconds, then complete cool, then 1:00, then complete cool, 1:30, then complete cool...up to 4:00, then complete cool. At that point you can ride it and not exceed "x" RPMs for 50 miles, then change the oil. Then move it up in RPMs a bit an do not exceed it for 500 miles, and change the oil. Check the oil at frequent intervals during this process, and change it immediately if it smells burnt or is discolored.
I add my own special sauce to the recipe, by changing the filter several times during the initial 500 miles, which is no biggy really, since I have a Hurricane Oil Filter from Nallin Racing (also sold under the name of Scotts), which is not only cleanable and reusable, but allows for instant inspection of of the contents. This gives me a little window into the innards of the engine.
See, I told you that most folks do not have the patience to do it right. |
Towjam
| | Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 01:22 pm: |
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Yeah. I'll follow their advice the day they agree to make my payments and cover any service bills.
Count me in as one of those who will follow the advice of those who actually designed and built the bike. |
M1combat
| | Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 04:16 pm: |
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I would follow their advice if I had prepped the cylinders myself and knew for sure that there weren't any large irregularities on the cylinder wall. That prep would include a proper honing to the ring manufacturers recommendation (total seal would be my choice), a very thorough cleaning to remove any metal bits from the honing process and a prep with a scotch-brite pad (moving the pad in the same direction as the piston will be) and then cleaning again with something like "gunk" engine cleaner and copious amounts of hot water. I would then also use either a dry lubricant so no rust started prior to first fire or if it wasn't long before first fire I would use ACES.
On a bike from the factory... I would use a combination that takes advantage of one of the specific things that's not really mentioned in the manual... throttle position. The worst thing you could do IMO is to just run down the freeway at 4K rpm for the first 50 miles. You want to vary the RPM and load the rings (but not overload them so you get micro welds) but it doesn't require 10,500 RPM's to do so. Roll on and off the throttle while sticking to the manufacturers recommendation.
When you REBUILD your engine... build it exactly right (read a LOT) and then break it in however you'd like because you know exactly what manufacturing tolerances you're working with ;). |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 06:46 pm: |
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Broke my bike in per manufacture instructions. Has 37,800 miles on it to date with only the stator going on it. Take it what you will. |
M1combat
| | Posted on Monday, September 03, 2007 - 10:17 pm: |
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I broke mine in via the manual as well...
48K miles with one failed stator... The engine is in parts ATM and the bores look "alright" but have some scoring on the leading and trailing sides. Pistons are shagged. The rings never wore in all the way around. Pretty close but there are two spots per ring that didn't seal as well as they should have.
I'd send the bores and pistons back to Buell for research if they'd send me a new set... |
Trojan
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2007 - 10:23 am: |
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I have followed their advice on the last 3 bikes I have bought, and the last one was run in entirely on a dyno then raced the next day! Results have been very impressive indeed and certainly give better power than others I have run in 'by the book'. reliability has been excellent too.
With the 1125 built by Aprilia I would imagine that running in won't be a major issue anyway, and will follow normal Japanese/Euro bike practice. It certainly won't need 1000 miles running in that's for sure. |
Fulgur
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 05, 2007 - 02:09 pm: |
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Anyone got a take on if the Nikasil-plated cylinders will make a deliverance to seating in the rings?
.....Fulgur. |
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