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Ralph
Posted on Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Saro, if you don't mind I'd like to wait a week to see if somebody would like to do a straight trade. If nothing comes up by then, you got a low seat. Sound okay?

Sarah is very happy with the B!ast. I got her the Riders Edge course as a present and she decided Buells thumper was okay. As everybody else has noted, it's a wee bit on the low side when it comes to power. I rode it back from the "point of puchase" and had it up to about eighty. With me hulking on it, that's not to bad. She thinks it's just fine. The one thing I would like to change about is the over-supple suspension. I'm sure I could come up with a replacement rear spring, but the fork springs could be a problem.

I'll be posting a windsheild for sale in the correct section shortly if anybody gives a hoot.

bighairyralph
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Xgecko
Posted on Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fork springs are "NO Problem" call Works Performance...they also do rear shocks for the Blast.
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Ltlboybuell
Posted on Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Gang, I just got the Dynojet kit installed. I decided it was easier to removed the tank than to remove the carb. Everything went great, I only had to loosen the band clamp to rotate the carb to drill out the mixture plug. Something else to note, my 2002 came stock with the 170 main.

Following Dynojet's instructions I went down to a 165 main since I'm running the White Brother's exhaust. Everything feels good, acceleration is much improved. I do get an intermittent pop on deceleration but it only happens once or twice when I fully close the throttle, it doesn't do the popcorn machine thing like you hear on some of the big twins. It feels like it pulls all the way up to the rev limiter now without any flat spots. I only took it out for a half-hour shake down so I'll see how it is after a longer/hotter ride.

Any thoughts?
Rich
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Xgecko
Posted on Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually 170 is what most people use with an aftermarket exhaust. The original carb came with a 42/165 setup. Unless you live up near Aaron I wouldn't go lower than 170 as things will get lean (I think this is why Buell went to a 170) Pilot should be a 45. Since my set up is closest to yours I would watch your plug I know I have been since I installed my new carb and started using an Iridium plug. So far I'm neither too lean or too rich but I still haven't gotten my idle worked out right.
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Ralph
Posted on Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you, wasalizard. I guess I have alot of catch up to do.

bighairyralph
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Ltlboybuell
Posted on Sunday, August 18, 2002 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks XG, let me admit that I never was good at the art of reading plugs. Looking at it (HD 10R12 ), the electrode is a gray on the side and black at the tip. The insulator has a reddish brown ash on it and the ground electrode is a greenish-brown grey. Here are some pics ... anyone care to take a stab :D ?

Plug1
Plug2
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Grapeman
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Xgecko
Thanks for the info. I've only got 860 miles on the Blast, but someday I'll need tires.
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Xgecko
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ltlboy, I was taught that Brown means lean and Black means rich. you are better rich than lean. I have always started rich and worked my way to "in" tune.

Grape, No problem I forget at times that I've had my Buell since the begining of April 2000. I really need to write everything down and have Blake post all the relevant Blast info like the Tubers info is.
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Blake
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

XG,
My experience indicates that tan to brown indicates a properly carbureted engine. See NGK's excellent guide to reading spark plugs for a good treatment of the subject.
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Xgecko
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have seen light grey to light tan and that is what I've considered just right. I was refering to the 4th image when I meant lean but thanks for that website it is very informative.
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Ltlboybuell
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks again XG, Excellent link Blake! I was trying to find something like that and all my searches kept turning up were parts suppliers
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Sarodude
Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW, my experience reading plugs leads me to the conclusion that reading plugs is a very unreliable method with which to tune an engine - though that may be all that many of us have access to.

Brown? You guys actually see BROWN? A lot of fuels used around here (LA, Ca) cause RED or ORANGE coloration. My only experiences reading plugs were on race motors running race fuel. Imagine my surprise when I was trying to help a buddy dial in a street toy we'd spent a few months building!

Plug heat ranges can also affect how rich or lean a plug LOOKS.

My somewhat lame sounding suggestion would be to determine what the ideal plug looks like after a proper dyno run. For a given fuel, spark plug, etc, that's the color to aim for. You can then make some changes and aim for a plug color which you got on the ideal dyno run. Or you can do like the 2 strokers do and learn to read piston crowns!

Anyway, just an opinion...

-Saro
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Buellmeister
Posted on Tuesday, August 20, 2002 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can somebody tell me what the "real world" private party value of a 2002 Buell Blast w/ 500 miles and A1 condition. Location is Riverside, California. Thanks in advance.
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, August 20, 2002 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Watch e-bay for two weeks. But I'll guess it at $3,500-$4,000 if like new and unmolested once it leaves the dealership's lot. That assumes it has had the first service completed on it for a fluid refresh and nut check and such. If not then knock $350 off unless the dealer who sold it included that in the original purchase deal. If it's a demo-bike then knock another $500 off.
{Just my opinion, worth less than the tire nubbins that are still probably on the tires, and if those are gone from the corners of the tread then chop another $250 off the price.:)
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, August 20, 2002 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

:roflol: Mike, you are a treasure. I love you man! :]
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Jeffb
Posted on Tuesday, August 20, 2002 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I watch eBay and searched the papers for a couple of months and was able to get a mint condition 2000 Blast with 1200 miles, tank bag and bike cover for $2500. Keep your eyes open. There are a lot of private owner bikes out there that people are ready to get rid of. You should be able to find a nice one for less than $3K.

Jeff
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Jprovo
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, it's been 1500+ miles and 6 weeks with my 2002 Blast, and the only real complaints that I have are my squeaking brakes. Only the rear brake squeaks, and only during partial (light) braking. Is this a common problem with the stock rotor/pad combo or is it just me? The pads don't appear to be glazed or anything.

James
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Blasterd
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jprovo, 2000 miles and a year later with my 2002 Blast and the brakes drive me crazy, same as you though, only the rear brakes. Other than that, no problems whatsoever!!!!
Ken
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Dantheman
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My rear pads squeak too, but the front are fine. I was thinking about lubing up the sliders for the calipers but i haven't got around to it yet.
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Xgecko
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You could just change the pads I got front and rears from ASB for less that $60 and they don't squeak at all. Though the front buzzes a bit on hard decel. The feel of the Ferodo pas is much better than OEM...however I have SS lines front and rear
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gee - rear brake? ohhh geeez I almost forgot I had one of those(my rears at 80% and I'm on my second front set);0) never even tried listening for it - if I'm actually using it then I'm too busy to be listening;0).Hey Xgecko - does HD still supply the steal lines and if so whats the F&R part numbers?Blasting on the Dark side! EZ
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Xgecko
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 08:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You might want to check for 2000 Blast front brakeline part# those were braied SS. My rears I switched to Braided SS when I installed the rearsets. I have been accused of having delusions of grandeur for the way I use my rear brake in turns so I like the fact that I have SS for the rear as well as the front.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

XG, One of these days, you'll probably learn that the rear brake on a sport bike ain't for trail braking. I hope you don't get skinned up too bad learning that lesson.
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Xgecko
Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2002 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, I have trail braked on two wheels for most of my life. I have a sub 3 minute time on the old Mammoth Mtn Kamakazee course (they shortened it so that doesn't mean as much now) try two wheel drifts at 50ph on smooth gravel. I usually only trail brake in downhill turns where both being on the throttle and slowing down are needed (suspension). But I also have found myself trailbraking in lower speed turns when I need stability. The backend of my Blast moves a bit before the tires warm up and also because my weight is further forward. I am quite used to it now. I plan on taking a Sliding Class at somepoint because I think that may be what will give me the most "working" knowedge of what I find to be the most natural way of riding. However I don't expect to be the next Gary McCoy
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2002 - 02:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tony, You are saving that style of riding for the track I hope?
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Xgecko
Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2002 - 02:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did ride my one track-day that way and I wish I had had someone coach me but all I did was work out lines and braking points. My big problem (or advantage) was that I didn't need to brake where everyone else on biger bikes was breaking so I was constantly diving under people hence the need to trail break. But I pretty much ride that way all the time. Now I am not the type who goes out and does squidly things I just ride every day rain or shine. I do not beleive in changing the way I ride from one medium to another that just leads to problems and badd mistakes
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Mavinwy
Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2002 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, it finally happened 18 months after I bought the blast, I have my first problem...of course it is the rocker box :)

Oh well, the metal gasket is in stock (will pick up this afternoon). Any hints other than what is in the manual? I will do it Saturday.

Thanks

Jim
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2002 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Numbers side up!(the rest is by the book)Blasting on the dark side!EZ
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Circlip
Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2002 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been out of town for a few days.

Xgecko - Thanks for the info on the Corbin seat. I'm not sure if I want to sink $300 into a new motorcycle. How do the Corbins fit? And what is ASB? Thanks.

Blake - Why did I get rid of my M750? Good question. In 2 riding seasons I only put 1800 miles on it. I loved to look at it, but riding it was, well sort of boring. It did everything well (but I still think that my MZ Skorpion handled better), but just didn't seem to have a lot of personality. I am a member of FSSNOC and decided that I wanted another Thumper. Candidates were the Suzuki DR650, the Enfield and the Buell. The Buell happed to win, so I'm expecting liots of character (but I did not expect such a crappy seat - and yes, I test rode one twice).
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Xgecko
Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2002 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I looked at it like this I hated the stock seat and unlike most folks who have an off season during which they could send their seat of to someone like Sargents. I don't have an off season just short (usually) periods that I have to travel with little of no notice. I also don't own a car, my Blast is my main transportation. I still can't beleive that I waited as long as I did to replace it Fitting a Corbin is an artform. Others will say that they don't fit Mine had a rather large gap that took a while to get rid of. It fits now that I have a tank mask. I will say one thing No matter the Fit the Corbin is so comfortable that I could really care less about what is looks like.

ASB is one of BADWEB's sponsors American Sport Bike. Good people and great service.

On the subject of Accessories check out the Part thread
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