| Author | Message | ||
     Snowscum |
I replied to an archived thread but its buried back to 2015. Ill ask here and see if I get any hits. I am replacing the original plugs on my 06 Uly. The replacement from Napa was 905 RA4HC. Gap on old plug is .043". New plug .025". Should I gap them to the original or leave them alone? Any help is appreciated. This board is a ghost town and its a bit sad. | ||
| Smorris |
NGK Iridium, dont mess around with the electrode. use plastic feeler to verify gap | ||
| Smorris |
I sent some $ awhile back when forum down for awhile. all of the bikes and owners are either old or tired, or both. Myself Ive been plagued with medical issues, Mayo clinic has been keeping me alive; them and the will of God This fourm is what keeps my bike alive | ||
| Smorris |
I sent some $ awhile back when forum down for awhile. all of the bikes and owners are either old or tired, or both. Myself Ive been plagued with medical issues, Mayo clinic has been keeping me alive; them and the will of God This fourm is what keeps my bike alive | ||
| Snowscum |
I kinda remember your name. Sorry you are having medical issues. Hope you turn things around. So do you change the factory gap on the NGK's? Ill take these champion plugs back to napa. Im to old to ride anymore in this out of control state of colorado. Trying to get the old Uly tuned up and ready for someone else to take the reins. | ||
| Pushr0d |
From the Service Manual: Spark plugs Type 10R12X (HD Part #) Gap 0.035 in (0.9 mm) Torque 12-18 ft-lbs (16-24 Nm) | ||
| Smorris |
2 options with the NGK. I do not recall which runs cooler, google can tell you DCPR8EIX DCPR9EIX IIRC 0.035 gap on these, don't change the gap, but verify it. check the gap while at store -OR- get the HD plug recommended | ||
| Predius |
9 will be the 'cooler' heat range NGK of those two options. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've run the 10R12X for more than 50k miles, zero issues, easy to get, not expensive. Why reinvent the wheel? | ||
| Snowscum |
Wow some activity on this board! Sweet! Ok I will go and return these plugs and take the drive out to the HD dealer. A haul just to get plugs..... Thanks for the replies. Smorris I got a email from you. Not sure where to reply. | ||
| Smorris |
look your going price post my addy is on there it's "encrypted" kinda since i keep getting message this site is no longer secure | ||
| Snowscum |
I sent you an email 2 days ago. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Last spark plug change about 2K miles ago, used NKG DCPR9EIX (maybe ...E1X) No issues here. Pretty sure I gapped per the FM, 0.035 The local HD dealer said he could order the 10R12X plug but they came in boxes of 10 or 12 and I would have to buy the whole box. So I got the NKG on Amazon. (Message edited by yo_barry on March 16, 2024) | ||
| Biffdotorg |
Not to hijack the thread, but I too was looking to replace the original plugs in my 12xt. 35,000+ miles sounded like a good life. Anyway, anybody got a video of how folks got a wrench on those damn things? I knew it would be tight, but wow. I gave up and figured I would worry about it another time, or when the engine started to hiccup, but I would like to swap them. And it looks like taking the airbox (more than just the shell) does not give a better route on that rear one either. Tips are welcome, off to the search bar for me. (Message edited by Biffdotorg on March 21, 2024) | ||
| Tootal |
An extension and a U-joint makes it fairly easy. I did have a snap-on magnetic plug socket. I highly recommend one if you can make the investment. I used a rubber hose to get the rear one started. The front was easy with an open end wrench or even an adjustable wrench. | ||
| Motorbike |
Biffdotorg, I have basically the same bike as yours. I have changed the plugs a few times in 36,000 miles. Just remove the air cleaner base and get a spark plug socket with a u-joint built into it. Then use a long 3/8 drive extension and breaker bar. Just be careful when pulling the plug wires up off the plug. Easy to damage them. I took a long shank screwdriver and made it into a hook tool to reach down and wrap around the plug boot to pull up on it rather than tugging on the wire itself. And, as Tootal said, use a rubber hose to get the new plug started without crossthreading. | ||
| Heavy18 |
For spark plugs I've been using the DCPR9EIX - NKG Iridiums. As I've said before, I believe for some components brand matters, plugs are one of those, I only buy NKG. To your comment on the forum activity: this forum uses 25 year old Internet tech and it caters to certain demographics. Unfortunately a lot of those riders are starting to slow down and age out of the sport. I've found the new/younger generation of Buell owners are very active on Facebook, I haven't checked Reddit. This place needs to live on for its archives and the wealth of knowledge therein. I try to give back by posting my personal findings and successes here for others to find in their searches. Regarding how to access the plugs, as has been said, for the forward plug, remove the air scoop and use an open end or box end wrench on the top of the spark plug socket. (Pics below). For the aft plug, remove the air box cover, air box and air box base, then use a combination of swivel joints and extenders on the spark plug socket. My socket is the cheaper variety with a rubber insert, but it works and I can start the plug by hand using this setup and avoid cross threading (pics below). These are the tools I use, they can be purchased at Harbor Freight. I don't recall if I need the second extender or I just attach the wrench to the 2nd swivel joint... I keep them in my tool-roll on my bike:  Configuration for the forward plug:   Configuration for the aft plug:  |
