| Author | Message | ||
     Toddlmr |
Hey Group! I have a 2007 Uly that's is giving me issues! Started a month ago with a loud noise coming from somewhere low. I isolated it to the primary. I checked tension and it was 3/8 cold but that was only in one spot. I read the forums and decided to pull primary cover. Everything looks good with oil (no plastic or metal shavings). Nothing noted to be loose other than the tensioner shoe. It seems to rattle. Is that Normal? Also, should pull the alternator cover? Next, I tried to replace intake seals and I still have a leak everytime. I am using the stock harley gaskets. I was thinking of getting the James gaskets. Anybody have any secrets? Thanks! | ||
| Luftkoph |
air can slip buy your injector seals also,DAMHIK | ||
| Toddlmr |
I'll check those! Thanks! | ||
| Hughlysses |
You're sure the crankshaft sprocket nut is tight? They were known to work loose on some XB's. How many miles on the bike? | ||
| Toddlmr |
It has 40K miles. Feels tight. I though about taking it off to inspect stator. | ||
| Reepicheep |
When that nut was loose on my M2, I could tell because it would "ring" with each combustion event while idling in neutral. Using the clutch to lightly load the motor (not enough to move the bike, just enough to lower the idle speed) would stop the ringing. It got me home (40 miles away) with no damage to the splines, but I was taking chances riding it that far in that state. I did try and keep the clutch at least lightly dragging the motor at all times. My 2007 Uly has an annoying rattle / ping that I can't track down either. I wish it would either stop, or finish breaking. The suspense is getting annoying. | ||
| Toddlmr |
Reepie, That is exactly what mine sounds like! It's ring/chirp I checked the nut and it was long ass breaker bar tight! I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 330 ftlbs. I have now redone those intake seals (replaced with new twice) four times and it still runs like shit. Will not idle. I am gonna order those injector seals but I am at of loss of what else to replace. Ready to tarp the •••••• for 6 months because I am so sick of this shit! What a terrible design. Thanks for input. Todd | ||
| Toddlmr |
Here are the maps. Maybe someone can tell me something!   | ||
| Reepicheep |
Todd, if this is it, you don't want to know, but it will at least end the suspense... The other place that kind of noise can come from is the 5th gear drive assembly, the thing that the front belt sprocket is attached too. There are needle bearings in there that a shaft rides on. They don't always get good lubrication. Hard to inspect without splitting the cases... but you can pop a cover and look for really broken bearings or rust drooling out. You can also remove the belt and turn the front sprocket by hand in neutral and see if there are crunchy bearing feeling spots. The problem is, on an XB, that you have to split the cases to replace that bearing. | ||
| Djohnk |
I had a ugly noise a couple of months ago and could have sworn it was coming from inside the primary area. To make a long story short, the left rear wheel bearing was bad. I know, how can a bearing sound like something in the primary, but trust me it did. | ||
| Ourdee |
When I had rear wheel bearings go, I could feel them clicking in the foot pegs. Could it need a tps reset? Could try turning the idle up. When you ride it, does it sputter and backfire? Mine did when I got the intake seals in wrong. | ||
| Uly_man |
Looks like your 80/ 3400 may be out of adjustment causing a "knock" to your trunion pin. Try a re-synchronization and a strap boot. | ||
| Toddlmr |
Thanks for all the responses! It makes the noise sitting in the garage idling. I sun the rear wheel and that sounds normal. Uly Man_ can you explain the 80/3400 is out of adjustment? No clue what any of that means  Sorry I wasn't online..... Thanks Everyone! | ||
| Etennuly |
Uly Man_ can you explain the 80/3400 is out of adjustment? No clue what any of that means Sorry I wasn't online..... I think he was harassing you about your 'mucket valve' and 'muffler bearing'(which the Uly actually has)problems. I'm sure it has something to do with his being other than American(English/Canadian/possible space alien)something got lost in the translation.   | ||
| Toddlmr |
Haha... jokes on me. I googled it too... Shows how desperate I am to get this running. Thanks for explaining! | ||
| Tootal |
Uly-Man is usually very serious, opinionated and many times correct...but when he throws one of those answers out there I'm thinking it was his alter ego talking....after a few pints!   | ||
| Uly_man |
"but when he throws one of those answers out there I'm thinking it was his alter ego talking". Correct. Being born under Gemini I am a classic "twin". It must be why I like Buells? Good and bad parts all in the same package. Todd. Try and eliminate/ confirm each possible cause of the problem one at a time otherwise you may confuse the situation. In most cases from my experience, and more so with this bike, it is sometimes a good idea to "walk away" for a while and then return with fresh mind to the problem. | ||
| Uly_man |
This is all me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwT_SbBtX8U | ||
| Xdigitalx |
Thanks for that man! I been browsing RM on you tube since I clicked that link! Wow... I needed that. | ||
| Toddlmr |
I've been away for a week. Been almost all summer since I rode. Had to cancel an Ozarks trip. Ready to put a for sale sign on it... | ||
| Arry |
Toddlmr, Have you checked what Reepicheep suggested, 5th gear drive assembly. This is the output side of the transmission, opposite the primary, the drive sprocket for the drive belt. I haven't had experience with this, but it could transfer noise to the primary side. Re read Reepicheeps posting, about 12 postings back. "...remove the belt and turn the front sprocket by hand..." | ||
| Arcticktm |
What makes you think you have an intake leak? the idle issue? I assume you have already done 1 (or more) TPS resets to at least get that out of the equation? I'm sure you must be completely frustrated, but your early emails seem to have a bunch of totally separate things mixed together, so it's hard to know what to tell you to look for. Seems like the noise issue is possibly totally unrelated to the poor running issue? More questions than answers, but if you give us a 1 event and problem and action at a time account, someone on here likely has some good advice. Lots of experience here. Some of it is even good! Wheel bearings, in my experience, are not accurately checked on the bike. Pop the wheel off to check them, since it only takes a few minutes. I wouldn't be worried about maps at this point, unless you have reason to believe the bike has had the ECM messed with in the past. Last resort to change the ECM, as it usually ends up being a bandage for the real problem. | ||
| Toddlmr |
Issue 1) it will not idle. Backfires out the intake. I have reset tps. It will run with carb cleaner on the intake. Was gonna order new injector seals. Issue 2) back in June I had a knock / squeak noise that can be heard at idle but gets a lot worse on acceleration. It really sounded like it was coming from the primary. Took cover off and visually inspected everything. Nothing loose or binding. If I can get it to run I can more easily diagnose the knock | ||
| Toddlmr |
Also, the sound from the primary is happening while in neutral. Does that eliminate 5th gear problem?? | ||
| Firemanjim |
What is the AFV when you look at ECM Spy screen? And is the vacuum nipple on the throttle body capped off? Have you sprayed brakekleen to check seals? You can also try turning off the closed loop idle and see what happens. Have you added any fuel to idle area? | ||
| Sagehawk |
What are you looking for when you turn off closed loop idle. Does this help when tuning the idle area perhaps? Sounds stupid, but I'm not sure what all is at play with this feature. Thanks for info Firemanjim. | ||
| Toddlmr |
I have no idea of how to do that firemanjim. But it sounds interesting. Is it possible that my TPS or even ECM is bad and causing running issues? Thanks | ||
| Toddlmr |
Made the decision to rotate the engine. I am gonna replace the leaky rocker box covers, PVC, grommets, redo intake seal and injector gaskets. It really makes it easy to do the intake seals with the motor rotated down! Hopefully, I can fix this problem and get back to the original problem (primary noise). I am gonna replace the wheel bearing in the rear, it has been 10k miles. Thanks for all the input! I will let ya know if this fixes my problem. | ||
| Toddlmr |
So I finished installing new (again) intake seals. I am positive they are not leaking. I installed new injector seals. New rocker box gaskets and new spark plugs and wires. I buttoned it back up, reset tps to zero and started. It is doing the exact same thing. It surges and backfires into the intake. Will not idle. The gas in it is only a few days old and it run fine in my craftsman mower. I do not have any errors or trouble codes. So what next? Fuel pump? ECM? TPS Sensor? IAT sensor? Shove $20 dollars bills up the tail pipe? | ||
| Uly_man |
"It is doing the exact same thing. It surges and backfires into the intake. Will not idle". You can have many things wrong with the bike and STILL have no codes. That is why the system is not much use. Back firing would be a timing and/ or fueling issue caused by a damaged ECM, chaffed wires, etc. Un-plug the ECM and check for damage to the ECM and the plugs wires. Check the loom that runs over the rear of the cylinder head as it DOES get damaged and shorts to Earth. Remove the timing cover plate to make sure all is ok inside IE The plate is NOT moving around. You may have a faulty TPS unit or the cam sensor. It could me anything. You just have to eliminate one part at a time. |
