| Author | Message | ||
     Germblast |
Cross-posted on BuellXB forum. Here is the background. Bought a 2006 XB12X that has been sitting for at least 2 years. the bike is mostly stock, but have some cosmetic aftermarket stuff. Here is a list of thing that I plan on changing/inspecting: 1. Change primary oil 2. Change engine oil and filter 3. Change air filter (found mouse nest between filter and airbox cover) Intake was clear of mouse debris. 4. Replace battery (as it was dead when purchased) 5, Replace front and rear brake pads (rear visibly bad) 6. Replace o-ring on clutch cable at primary 7. Inspected all visible wires and cables for mouse damage, nothing noted. Now for the questions 1. there is fuel in the tank, how to drain and flush it out? 2. how would I drain/clean the fuel lines to TB? 3. Do I need to do anything with the TB since its been sitting? 4. are there any other things I need to do before I can try to start it? 5. since doing this should I take a look at the fuel pump wiring issue? 6. is the breather re-route something that should be taken care of? 7. is the right side scoop worth the cost? 8. the tires look okay and was told they only had 500 miles on them before it was parked, now sitting for 2 years, should they be replaced? I think that are all the question and concerns that I have for right now, please let me know if there are others things I should look into before trying to start it up. I have other bikes but this is my first XB. Thanks for any feedback and answers. Jeremy | ||
| Uly_man |
Question? What is a TB. | ||
| Teeps |
If this was my project I would: make sure there is oil in the engine and primary. install a new battery. remove the "mouse" air cleaner. (leave air cleaner/cover off for now) fill the tank with fresh 91 or higher octane fuel, maybe some fuel injector cleaner. see if the engine will start and run. re: clutch cable o'ring, if primary is full and oil is not dripping on the floor. Clean and leave it alone. The cable ferrule is very delicate, and easy to break off. At that point you need a new cable assy... $56 plus. http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17096 | ||
| Teeps |
Uly_man: TB = throttle body | ||
| Froggy |
There is a drain plug near the fuel pump in the lower left portion of the frame
Probably not even needed, but removed the injectors from the throttle body, and crank the engine.
Nope, it is not a carburetor.
Nope, it likely is all overkill, it should run (although not at its best) on old gas, but draining or syphoning out the old gas and putting in some fresh fuel couldn't hurt.
I wouldn't bother, it is involved to get the fuel pump out, so unless you know it has an issue I would not do the extra work.
I don't recommend it. Yea it helps with it running at low RPMs, but it makes your bike stink badly, and you have to deal with a catch can or dump oil on your bike or the road.
The scoop alone? No. The comfort kit? Yes. The kit is a specially designed scoop that works in conjunction with a different underseat air duct to reduce heat felt by the rider, it also includes an exhaust heatshield.
They are fine | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ TB = throttle body Your planned steps sound good. If you're replacing the clutch cable O-ring due to oil residue here, it's more likely due to weeping at the plastic/metal joint at the bottom of the cable. Clean it off and wrap with self-bonding tape to fix. If you DO replace the O-ring, be aware that the fitting on the end of the clutch cable is aluminum and will snap off VERY easily. Tighten VERY lightly. In response to your questions: 1. There is a drain plug on the fuel pump at the lower left side of the frame. 2. I wouldn't worry about the small amount of fuel in the lines. Add fresh fuel to the tank and you should be OK. 3. No. 4. You could remove the spark plugs, shoot a couple of shots of oil down each cylinder and turn the engine over a few times if you want to be anal about it, but it's probably OK to just fire it up. 5. Well, after you've drained the fuel would be a good time to pull the fuel pump, but I'd guess that issue has already been taken care of or is unlikely to occur. 6. Yea, I'd recommend it. Otherwise, a lot of gunk eventually builds up in the throttle body and intake ports and on the intake valves. American Sport Bike has dyno'ed bikes with it done and claims a measureable (~5 HP) increase. 7. I recommend the whole "comfort kit" not just the right side scoop. 8. If the bike was stored inside, I'd think the tires are OK. If it was outside where they could oxidize in the sun, I'd be leery of them. You can always ride it a while this way and take it easy until you gain some confidence in the tires (or don't). | ||
| Arry |
Welcome aboard, Germblast. You've gotten good response and a lot of good advice, for your first half hour on BB&D. I agree with others, new battery, new or cleaned air filter, fresh gas, and it should start (unless it wasn't running when it was parked). Yes, on "comfort kit". I like the breather reroute, and lots of ways to do this, mine is without a catch can, but I park in a dirt floor barn, so I don't worry about occasional drip or fumes. How many miles on your "new" bike? It's a good idea to go over the whole bike to check for loose fasteners (nuts & bolts). Check tire pressure (obviously). Good Luck | ||
| Germblast |
First I want to say thanks to everyone for all the great feedback. I will take all of it and come up with my plan. I was told that here is around 30k miles but the battery is dead and couldn't verify. The bike as stored indoors sort of, open parking garage. They look dirty and dusty but okay for now. The last trip he took was up in Canada and then parked till Saturday when I picked it up.  | ||
| Fotoguzzi |
your a lucky guy, you'll love it ! | ||
| Germblast |
God I hope so, this is my third, started with a blast which my neighbor has, 1125r I picked up in May, and now this ( which I got a killer deal on). I look forward to getting it on the road. | ||
| Germblast |
I've been searching all over and can't find any info or procedure on the ECM relocation. Would this be included in the Rider Comfort Kit from American Sport Bike? I also need to find the breather re-route directions too. I know that American Sport Bike has a kit and hardware, but $130 for the catch seems a bit over priced. If anyone can post the threads or procedures for either of these, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jeremy | ||
| Uly_man |
Looks like a nice bike and will probably look near new once cleaned up. That part of the build quality is very good. I would not worry on any "mods" for the moment just give it a full service and then check that it runs right and all its parts are ok. This is very important on any bike but more so on this one. The "mods" will make it a better bike but it needs to be right in the first place. At 30k I would be sure the wheel bearing and front engine mount are sound as with the wiring for chaffing, etc. | ||
| Arry |
While you have the air filter off, take a look in the throttle body. Make sure the "butterfly" and shaft are moving freely and fully closing. You can clean up deposits of varnish with carb cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Check for any ridge where the butterfly closes and inspect the shaft, they have been known to break. | ||
| Scottykrein |
Check your "77 Connector" (use the Search link at the top of the page) and add one of these if it already doesn't have one. http://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-4218-Black-L-E-D-Ba ttery/dp/B000GU5WNO | ||
| Etennuly |
Do the minimum necessary to make it run, go over it to make it run/be right, ride it for a while, then start making your modifications. A lot of times claims others make on what modifications are needed may not be so for you/your bike. You/yours may need other things. No need to spend a lot of time and money on a bike that you have not even had running yet. Ya kind of have a grab bag buying one like that.....so feel it out one step at a time. | ||
| Uly_man |
Well put ET. | ||
| Germblast |
Scotty, Where would I do the connection for that Voltage meter? I'll take a look at the "77 connector" tonight, anything specific I should be looking out for? Etennuly - I would have to agree with you now thinking about it, get it to a condition to where its running and running well, then look at the Mod and do them one at a time. That would make it so much easier to diagnose if there was a problem from one of the mods. Thanks for all the feedback, can't wait to take her out for the first time in 2 years. Just need to stay patient and get the required stuff done right. | ||
| Uly_man |
Oh and if you need a new battery you may as well get the 220 CCA over the standard 200 CCA one. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I used some thick sleeping pad foam material (flexible, but pretty dense) to "build up" the top of the ECM body. This is in addtion to the factory block kludge. My reasoning is that the body of the ECM can take plenty of abuse, but the connector can't. So the seat rests on the pad, and on the ECM body, but never puts pressure on the wires and connectors (which are what cracks the solder joints where the connectors go into the boards). | ||
| Etennuly |
If the 77 connector is bad it will be obvious. The plug will look like burned toast. Mine was partially burned and had a hard time coming apart. I simply cut and solder spliced the wires. Do it one at a time so that the wires stay in proper alignment with each other.....same color wires and such.  | ||
| Germblast |
Okay thanks for the info about the connector, I think I'm going to go the route of the Submersible Pump Connections instead of the replacement plug, cheaper too I'll take a look at the ECM and see if there are any rub marks on the bottom of the seat. It does have the low seat installed, but also provided the stock tall one too. Uly_Man - I plan on getting the Big Crank, but will look to see what the CCA is. | ||
| Germblast |
UPDATE: I looked at the 77 Connector, everything looks good so far, but I did order some submersible pump splice connectors to replace it. I got all the old fuel out of the tank, wow it was almost 5 gallons worth, plus flushed about 1/5 gallon through it too. Drained the engine oil, looked dirty, but didn't have any water/condensation. Pulled the Primary access cover and the tranny oil looked brand new. Inspected the ECM and noticed slight crack in the light grey connector, hoping that its still good. I noticed that I do not have the stand-off mounting block either. I can get ahold of some closed cell foam to put in top of the ECM for the time being. That or I could just move it too. Tried to pull the lower air box out, but couldn't figure out how to get it past the rubber intake funnel. I have an older battery to hook up and make sure that all the electronics are good. I plan on running an oil/filter (Mobil 1 20w-50 and Purolator) for only about 100 or so miles and flushing it all out. Then putting in some good Amsoil. I don't have the owners or service manual yet, how much engine oil does it take? I think I saw somewhere that's its 2.5qts. Should I change out the primary fluid even if it looks clean and doesn't have a burnt smell? Tires do not have any sidewall dry rot, only a few cracks between the treads and not sun bleached areas I think that's about everything that I have inspected, cleaned, or ready for replacement. Thanks to everyone for all the help and recommendations. | ||
| Arry |
Yes, about 2.5 qts. motor oil, (lots of opinions about what motor oil to use). One qt. for the primary (when you do that), it doesn't sound like you need to do that right away. Most use H.D. formula+ for the primary. Did the old gas smell bad (or like gas)? | ||
| Falloutnl |
Motul motor oil! | ||
| Germblast |
Yes the gas smelt bad. I have drained it all out, flushed with a little more, and filled it up with fresh 93. UPDATE: Well, I got the oil, filter, primary fluid, fresh gas, and a small battery bolted up. Turned the key and I got the dash to cycle, which looked normal. Kill switch to Run, fuel pump started to prime and stopped. Hit the start button, one rotation and the started just clicked. Crap, battery not powerful enough to crank the motor. Plus it turns out to have 10K less miles on it that the previous owner thought. Since it wouldn't start, I decided to check al the lights and stuff and noticed the right blinker does not work. No fast blink, no relay click, just nothing. I checked the rear bulb and it looks good. Left front and rear work normally. Thinking it might be something in the handlebar switch housing. Any ideas on the right blinker issue? | ||
| Etennuly |
In the wiring bundle between the left air scoop and the steering head there are two triple wire splicers. They are cold crimp wax filled splicers. Being in a place they have to flex, they tend to break off in a subtle way. These have given many folks intermittent failures that are hard to diagnose. I unwrapped the wire bundle making a single splice on the wires from the engine side. The main power to the cluster and bars is red, the right turn signal is white. I used a section of wire long enough to move the triple splices up into the fly screen area where no movement of the forks will affect them. In reality the battery needs 12.6V of power to start and run the bike. If you put a meter on the battery and hit the starter the start load spike should not go below 9.4V. The best known safest oil for the primary that I have seen thus far is Formula + from HD. It does the clutch and all of the alternator stuff. Oil.....well.....everybody likes there own brand for their own reason. I went to Rotella non syn 10-40, with about a half pint of STP or Lucas for summer use. | ||
| Germblast |
Etennuly - thanks for the info about the right blinker, I will take a look at it when I get home tonight. Did you move all the bundles to the fly screen? If possible could you post a picture of it? I do so much better with pictures. Thanks again. | ||
| Arcticktm |
You just have to mess with the rubber intake boot to get the lower airbox plate over it. The boot has a split in it so that it seals around the inner edge of the airbox plate all teh way around. It takes some work, but it will come off without damage to the boot if you have some patience with it. +1 to Etennuly. make sure it's a good runner before wasting time doing every single possible "improvement" that one of us has posted up here over the years. | ||
| Etennuly |
Pictures are in here someplace.....from several years ago.....I'll have to dig in to that later. When you unwrap the wire bundle you will see the triple splices, simply three wires into one by splicer, wrapped in tape. By making them a single splice and adding a single extension wire to each in the bundle, you will eliminate four wires that have to be in there to flex and bend around the frame neck and through the retainer bracket. They will now be three into one behind the fly screen. | ||
| Germblast |
Okay, I think I understand now. I will take a look at it and se what I can find. I understand that I need to get it running first, but I'm just trying to get a game plan together for the next phase. |
