| Author | Message | ||
     Advoutlander |
Today I replace my heated throttle grip. I has also zip tied the throttle cables and heated grip wire to the handlebars to keep them out of the way. I noticed that my throttle grip was not returning to the closed position. I'm not sure why as I didn't adjust it and doubt dip tieing them out of the way did this. Anyway i've been trying to adjust it and cannot get it right. The throttle wont snap back. Ive followed the instructions per service manual and it doesnt help. What is the simple way to adjust the throttle? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Cut the zip tie. | ||
| Etennuly |
 It will provide a double bend friction restriction, no matter how small, not good. | ||
| Advoutlander |
I cut the zip tie. I'm now struggling to get the throttle and idle right as when it opens and closes to the left, it doesn't to the right and vice versa. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'd make very sure you have the cables and the grip reassembled properly at the throttle grip end. Maybe something got misaligned during the procedure and now it's binding. 2nd possibility: It's possible that while the cables were disconnected from the grip, the slack allowed them to come off of the cam on the throttle shaft at the throttle body. You'll have to pull the outer air box, inner air box, and air box base plate to get access. Put the cables back where they should be on that end, then adjust at the throttle grip and verify everything works properly before you reinstall the air box. If that's not it, I don't have a clue. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Are you sure the cables are routed exactly the same way they were before you did any work? Left/right binding problems sound like a routing issue - there's one way to correctly route the cables through the forks and instrument cluster. Anything other than that one way...and you get binding. | ||
| Advoutlander |
I believe so they go through the gap between the gauges and the triple tree on the right side. Can you post a pic? | ||
| Advoutlander |
Looking at pics online, my routing looks correct. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Is the new grip rubbing against the right hand switch pod? This is a common problem that will prevent the throttle from snapping all of the way closed. Engine revving when the steering is turned is usually from misrouted cables (even twisted around each other can do it) or insufficient slack. | ||
| Advoutlander |
No the new grip is not rubbing against the switch pod. I tried to adjust the handle bars and risers but no luck. I completely removed the risers and now it works fine. It's really pissed me off and the risers make riding much more comfortable and I cannot see why all of a sudden the throttle cable is binding. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Because you're asking the cable to be longer. That puts strain on it where it turns corners. Get a longer cable or figure out how to shorten the routing. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Where the cables run along the left side of steering head seems to be a common binding point. My '06 had the plastic guide along here, but I found that it tended to want to bind when you moved from full right back to center or left. Can't recall exactly what I did (no pics with me), but I think I actually cut some of this guide off and put some protective nylon braided loom around the cables to make them slide around easier. I may have even pulled the clutch cable out of that guide? Anyway, I have the ROX 2" risers and was able to get it to work. My bars were replaced a couple years ago, and I think they are slightly narrower than stock, which would also help a bit by bringing the throttle closer to center of bike. I know my controls are pretty crowded now. Make sure your throttle tube is not tight against the bar end, though this should bing in any position and not depend on left/right position of the handlebars. | ||
| Jstav2012 |
If these are the Rox 2" risers, it is easier if you remove the brake line clamp on the forks to give more play. Also, is it possible that your cables need oiling? | ||
| Mark_weiss |
If there is no way to adjust the cable routing to reduce binding, try using the cable adjusters. Turn the steering to the area where the cable pulls the most and set the adjusters so that you have a bit of slack at that point. That should allow the throttle to return to idle at all steering angles. | ||
| Uly_dude |
I've messed around with this binding cable phenomena also. And I didn't even add rox risers(though I am doing that this winter). It happened after I put on the OEM heated grips. I noticed if I overly tightened the screws that hold the throttle cable housing to the handlebars, I got it to bind. But this was only when the handlebars were cranked all the way to the left. It's that plastic holding piece as the cables go around the steering stem. It doesn't allow the cables to move there. This also has the electrical wires in it which I thought was a bad idea. My idea is to remove the cables from this plastic anchor point, keep the wires in there. Then using a plastic loop that can use the same anchoring screw in the head stock, something like you'd use in an electrical wiring application, loosely anchor the throttle cables outside of this constrictive plastic piece from the factory. Give that a try. It won't cost you much. That's what I'll probably be doing when I add my Rox risers this winter. | ||
| Uly_man |
There is nothing wrong with the route of the cables or the fixing points as per OEM fitting. The throttle twist grip has two adjustments. One is the "bit point" (gas on slack) and the other is the return speed which can feel like binding. Both are critical for a good set up/ feel and can take a time to get right. Most bikes can have a slight binding at full lock on the steering and depends on the bike and how you set it up. Make sure that the inside end of the grip is not fouling on anything as it can do if you push it on to far. If you are having problems make sure that the shafts that fit into the handlebar section are fitted correctly as if not you will never get it right. Also make sure you do the locking nuts up, re-test to make sure it ok and put the boots back on. This is the same for all bikes. | ||
| Arcticktm |
I disagree that "most bike can have a slight binding at full lock". Well, maybe they can, but they certainly shouldn't! I've owned a lot of different bikes, like many here, and none of them had a binding throttle unless something was wrong. I'd hate for someone to ride a bike with a binding throttle thinking it was normal or unavoidable. | ||
| Uly_man |
Ok I am fine with that. | ||
| Hoover_uly |
I have an 09 with factory heated grips and 2 inch risers if I recall correctly. I screwed around for hours trying to route the cables when I installed the risers so they would not bind. I can't remember exactly how I routed but I tried to keep bends/sharp bends to a minimum. As stated by Jstav2012 above, I removed the brake cable clamp from the forks and routed the cable between the fork and frame. This provided more play BUT this allows the possibility for the cables to be pinched between the fork and frame at full right. I added a zip tie around the cables and tied them VERY loosely to the bars. Pulled them towards the bars just enough to keep them from being pinched at lock. Why is it binding now and not before? Dunno, but I could not use the stock routing with risers. Uly Man has advocated trimming the bars about one inch on each side if I recall correctly to help reduce the need for risers. Perhaps a bit off the bars would give you just enough slack to get the risers back on the bike. I wouldn't want to ride far without them. Hope you get it sorted out. | ||
| Advoutlander |
I tried what hoover said, I dont trust the cables getting pinched between the forks and frame. I could use a zip tie but I dont feel safe with it. It did give it the extra slack though. |
