| Author | Message | ||
     Advoutlander |
What is the best way to store the drive belt? The under seat area is packed with the buell under seat bag. I have a givi e45 side case the belt can fit in but is there a certain way it would be compacted to fit? | ||
| Nillaice |
You can coil it like a band saw blade. I've got a belt, a clutch cable, an air compressor and the owners book under my seat | ||
| D_adams |
You can, but it starts destroying the belt as soon as you make that first twist. I specifically asked that this year at HC and was told by the guy that knew pretty much everything about belts on Buells to NOT do it. Side loading the belt tears the cords inside it. If it sounds like it's popping or ripping when you twist the belt, the damage is done. If you don't care about longevity of the belt and it's just a "get me home" deal, then I wouldn't worry about it much, but I would not do it with a brand new belt. | ||
| Ourdee |
Honestly, most of my trips are less than 150 miles from home. The belt stays on a shelf with tools, the manual, and other spares. I have a cell phone, drivers, and vehicles to bring them to me. Cheapest performance mod on my bike is not carrying extra weight. Worst things for belts in my mind are downshifting without a slipper clutch, and forcing the belt during a wheel change. Answer: Store it in a cool dry environment, flat, and not coiled like a band saw blade. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have my (used) spare belt coiled and zip-tied to the bottom of my topcase bracket. I added a pair of wire cutters to the Buell toolkit in the saddlebag, so I can cut the zip ties roadside (the kit has every other tool needed to swap a belt on the shoulder). My coil has no twists, but being under the case I have room to let it "stack" a bit. Make sure not to make any bends tighter than the diameter of the front sprocket. Mine is a strictly "get me home" belt, and my riding style when it's on the bike....changes significantly, shall we say. I put myself into "limp" mode  And I keep a new belt in a box in the garage. | ||
| Buellerxt |
About a year ago I spoke to the guy who 'manufactures' the belts and inspects every belt that fails under warranty. He EMPHATICALLY told me, over and over, that folding it like a band saw doesn't hurt it a bit and said that is what he'd do. He was insistent guys. | ||
| Motorbike |
I coiled my used belt with 12,000 miles like a band saw blade and put it in the topcase in a plastic bag. When I coiled it, it went very easily and did not make any popping noises or any noise that would indicate breaking cords. Personally, if the belt is that weak, it should have never been used on these bikes to begin with. I think the reason belts snap occasionally is because a small rock or something like that gets caught between the rear pulley and belt and breaks the cords that way. Just my $.02. Thanks. | ||
| Teeps |
Ourdee Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2013 - Worst things for belts in my mind are downshifting without a slipper clutch. Agree. But that's what the lever on the left side is for... (Message edited by teeps on June 29, 2013) | ||
| Uly_man |
Advoutlander - Double twisting the belt is fine to fit under the seat. | ||
| Advoutlander |
Thanks, there are no twists, just one slight bend to fit in my e45 case. | ||
| Griffmeister |
But that's what the lever on the left side is for... I thought that's what that twisty thing on the right was for, too.  | ||
| Tootal |
 Larger battery, tire repair kit, Buell tool kit, My tool kit and a used belt coiled for an emergency. I would buy a new belt and install it then take the old belt and keep as the spare. It's easier to put on at the side of the road and it coils real easy. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I put on a new belt before the old one died. I would not have wanted to coil that brand new and very stiff belt, and I put it on the bike. I then took the old belt (maybe 25k miles at that point) and it coiled up very easily. If it tore anything in there that was not torn before, it didn't do it with much fuss or drama. It took very little effort. It rides in a side bag now. So I'd agree with both positions... new belts should not be coiled, old belts probably can be, and they are the "get you back to a new belt" temporary solution. That being said, I have not had to try the old coiled belt again. So I don't know for sure. | ||
| Yogi0013 |
I realize better safe than sorry and all that, but how many of you have ever had to change a belt on the side of the road? Just out of curiosity? I remember reading about these belts in 06 and them claiming that the belts were virtually indestructible. Nothing is, especially on a bike, but I'm interested in finding out how many folks on a long trip have had to change a belt. | ||
| Nillaice |
Twice on the uly First on the original belt then a spare I picked up off the classifieds. Both were on downshifts where I could have been easier on the belt. Both times I had the tools and a replacement on me. ~45 min total delay each time | ||
| Griffmeister |
20K on my 08, still running the original belt. Now everyone has me thinking that I should get a new one and keep the old one for a spare. Of course I haven't done more than 400 miles in a day, but then again none of the three area dealers keep one in stock.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
That 2006 article got misinterpreted (perhaps over hyped) by a lot of people (probably myself included). It was easy to read it as "Belt's are the perfect nirvana of motorcycle secondary drive systems". What the article really was, was a *great* answer to the recurring annoying question of (read in whiny teenager voice) "why didn't you put a chaaaaaiinnn on it, belts suck!". The article correctly pointed out the reasons... 1) While a new chain adds a little less drag to the drive train than a belt does... your chain isn't new, is it? Worn chains get worse and worse, so in general, the "loose less power" argument is not very significant for a street bike. 2) You can rig a belt up for zero lash drive train. You can't do that with a chain. 3) Chains are cheaper. It also made the point that this isn't really accurate either. First, for a 100HP motorcycle, the chain is NOT cheap. It's actually pretty pricey. And a chain is pretty much a predictably linear wear item. You put it on, it works great for a few thousand miles, then the O-rings or X-rings or magic pixie dust seals let the magic lube out and the grit in, and the chain starts to wear and stretch. And if your chain lets go, it is (in many cases) 150 bullets fired right at your crank case or swing arm. So you really can't mess about waiting for it to fail, you have to replace it before then. Oh, and did we mention that when you replace your chain, you should really replace your sprockets also? The belt *is* cheaper. Thats the point Buell was trying to make... not that the belt will "last forever". The point was that the belt isn't guaranteed to be dead and forced to be replaced at X miles, like a chain. And if a bet goes, it probably won't saw a hole in your crankcase. I pulled my original belt at about 25k miles, put on a new one, and put the old one in a side case with tools under the seat. Who knows if I will ever use it. If the total net cost of secondary drive maintenance is $175 every 25k miles, thats a SMOKING good deal relative to chains. On my dirt bikes, I love chains though. A 35 HP motor doesn't need an expensive one, so for $30 every two or three seasons I am good to go. And it's hard for rocks and junk to get "caught" in a chain. Even with just a 35 HP motor though, I'll stretch a new chain to beyond its service limits in maybe 2000 to 3000 miles of riding (though granted, I buy cheap chains). | ||
| Teeps |
Yogi0013 Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2013 I realize better safe than sorry and all that, but how many of you have ever had to change a belt on the side of the road? I refuse to answer the question on grounds it will jinx the original belt on my '06 Uly. | ||
| Uly_man |
Reepicheep - Good to hear some logic on this. Thank you. Before I bought my 06 bike I worked out the price to replace the belt over a heavy duty chain set, for the same power, for 10k miles which is what I was getting on my chains if they were looked after. It was close to the same but with none of the problems of a chain. I have been getting about 7500 miles on my belts but I think that is due to my riding conditions. That is lots of low gear changes and long travel on the rear end due to road conditions. At least it is only the belt. On a GS it kills the shaft drive and costs big money to fix. Given what I know now I would not keep a used belt as a spare. I would carry a new one and wait for the old one to break as it is easy to fit a new belt on the road. | ||
| Reepicheep |
7500 is WAY low for a belt. Are you on gravel? You might want to hog out your tensioner holes slightly to take a little tension off the belt. | ||
| Uly_man |
I have run a FST with both 06 and 10 bikes so sort of does the same sort of thing. I ride 80% in London traffic and it is all gear changes, road humps, junctions, roundabouts, etc. It is riding conditions and it does the same on a chain set for me. I have proved it on both my Ulys. I tend to ride the bike hard as well. In fact, if honest, VERY hard. All in all its not a problem and I keep a spare belt to hand which takes 20 min to change out. I am sure if I run the bike on a flat top for 10k miles it would be fine. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Both times I was in London, I spent most of my time walking wondering what it would be like to be on the Uly. Probably a lot of scuffed side bags... |
