| Author |
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Rdkingryder
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 10:19 pm: | 
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Man, if I was closer to you, I go check out it. Let us know what you find. |
Motorbike
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 12:57 pm: |
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That just doesn't seem right. You said in an earlier reply that it shifts fine when the primary cover is off. If that is true, I doubt anything is wrong with the transmission.
Did you originally have the cover off to just replace the gasket or was there another reason?
When the primary case was off shift lever works fine, it selects all gears and returns to the middle position, when the case was put back on nothing worked. |
Danair
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 11:23 am: |
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There is a bushing where the shaft goes thru case. Some look like Teflon coated but they are metal. There is a shoulder on the shaft that rides against the face of it and the rest of the shaft is supported by it. It is behind the seal but presses in from the inside. If you put a small nick in either surface it will bind. Don't ask.... .I even tried dressing it out and polishing shaft. They're cheap and easy and solved my exact problem. Pop out the seal and the bushing and tighten case and see what happens |
Advoutlander
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 11:33 pm: |
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Motorbike had originally had the primary casing off to rtv on the stator plug.
Danair i know what you mean, I already told that to the hd dealer , they said they checked it and found nothing wrong.
I called the stealership today, they said they had to special order some gaskets, orings. The transmission is opened and apparently there is some kind of silicone sealent in it and some bits of broke metal. It is still being looked at to determine whats up....they said its likely someone in the past had worked on it and didnt do it to standard re the silicone sealent. So i am none the wiser.
The question is once it ia fixed should the uly stay or go? |
Advoutlander
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2013 - 12:18 am: |
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The bike was repaired by hd. They rotated engine and overhauled the transmission. Basically they took it apart and removed some silicone sealant that appeared in the gears, they put it down to previous improper servicing from the previous owner. The shift lever was also replaced. The bike shifts fine and feels better than it did before. |
Kevmean
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2013 - 08:52 pm: |
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But didn't you say on July 3rd that you had used permatex instead of the correct gasket? maybe that is what was in the gears? ..... if it worked fine before you removed the cover and then didn't after you put it back on then I'm sorry but it sounds like you f****d up putting it back together. Initially you didn't slacken off the primary tensioner which would have been putting pressure on the case and shaft as you tightened things up. |
Danair
| | Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 11:14 am: |
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The endplay of the shifter shaft against the bushing may need the gasket thickness. Mine does or it binds when torqued. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 11:44 am: |
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Thanks for the info Danair! Great info, I never would have thought of that, but it makes perfect sense.
Also, you can't service a Uly transmission by "rotating the engine", you have to service it by removing the engine, then pretty much completely taking it apart, and then splitting the cases. Then you can service the transmission. And if you are just working with the primary, you don't need to rotate the engine, you have all the access you need as is.
So lots of confusing information here, but Dan managed to inject a useful fact regardless.  |
Uly_man
| | Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2013 - 01:36 pm: |
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"The endplay of the shifter shaft". Yes and I would have thought it was checked as it was done. Or at least I would have. End shaft play/float is critical on many things like cam shafts, cranks and the like.
I am not saying it was the cause of this problem but the use of non OEM sealers is best avoided. Even a tiny amount can cause a full or part blockage in an oil gallery. Say, for instance, that it did it by 5% on one of the cam rocker oil feeds. You would NOT KNOW it but that cam would be wearing more than it should. The bike might be fine for 20k miles then all of a sudden you have an expensive problem. This can also happen with dirty oil and CLEAN oil with 100% flow is a must with hydraulic rockers.
An engine with a dry sump, hydraulic rockers, small amount of oil, air/oil cooled with a very wide operating temp and "souped up" heads (this engine has near twice the BHP of its old basic version of 50 BHP) needs good clean oil. It may seem like a pain to change it every 2500 miles but it is easy and cheap to do. It also costs about the same as most other bikes as you use half the oil of a wet sump bike. |
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