| Author | Message | ||
     Claybobber |
In the process of replacing the stator and VR on my 06.... (yes the stator was fried) Anyway I have some concerns about removing the engine sprocket nut and clutch sprocket nut at a later time after using red loctite. Is heat required for removing a nut threadlocked with loctite 272? Has anyone had to go back in and break a nut after the 272 has cured? My next question is, can permatex 27200 be substituted for loctite 272? Anyone had success using 27200 permatex? Thanks for the help clay bob | ||
| Tootal |
Heat does help with the removal, just don't turn anything straw or blue colored. A propane torch would be more that enough. I just used a breaker bar and a small pipe and was able to break it loose without heat. When you assemble it the torque spec in the book was changed to a higher spec. I don't have the spec right now but if nobody jumps in with the answer I'll look it up. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Not sure which number it is, but I think any high strength (red) threadlocker is acceptable. I'm sure the crankshaft nut is installed with that from the factory, so if you get it off in the first place, you'll know what it'll be like to get it off if you have to do the job again in a few years. The only bad experience I've had is using the "paste" type red Loctite; it comes in a tube like Chapstick. I used that when I replaced the stator on my S3 several years ago, and the nut worked loose ~200 miles down the road with the new owner after I'd sold the bike. Fortunately, he found a sympathetic Harley dealer who properly diagnosed the problem and corrected it before any damage was done. Apparently the paste stuff started to set up before I got the nut completely tightened so I effectively broke the bond when I torqued the nut, rendering the Loctite useless. | ||
| Hughlysses |
IIRC, original torque spec for the crank nut is 200-210 ft-lbs; new torque spec is 250-260 ft-lbs. I did a quick search and came up empty; there's an excerpt from a factory tech bulletin here somewhere showing the new spec. | ||
| Tootal |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/148030.html?1145912069 Found it! | ||
| Claybobber |
Thanks... Yes my experience was similar, both nuts came off without heat or much effort. 18" breaker without a cheater. Okay, its clean, prime and apply threadlocker, install the HD special locking tool aka 4"door hinge, (great tip btw) torque crank nut to 255 ft-lbs. Has the clutch nut torque spec changed? | ||
| Hughlysses |
No, original clutch nut torque should be OK. The crank nuts on early XB's were working loose occasionally, which is why that torque was increased. They changed the spline design and changed to a one-use bolt instead of a nut on the 08-up XB's, which avoids this fairly insane torque requirement. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I actually threw out my red loktite. I will not use it any more forever. | ||
| Arcticktm |
I used a torch to heat up the stocker before removing. Never tried it without. I used red to re-install (I think Permatex). Back in my Arctic Cat days, we tried switching from LocTite to Permatex for a cost savings on steering and other fasteners that we wanted extra safety on. the permatex failed our manufacturing tests (lower breakaway torque). However, this was on pre-applied stuff (fasteners come in with a dried product already applied to save mess and time on assembly line). for that reason, I did not worry too much about using P-tex. Also, the big torque wrench I used only worked RH thread, so it was not much use on the LH torque spec. 5 years later and all is still well, though, so I gues I didn't do too badly at it. If you already have red P-tex, use it, but follow all precautions. Clean, dry threads are very important. If you have to buy it still, go ahead and buy the Loctite brand. Just my opinion, of course. |
