| Author | Message | ||
     General_ulysses |
I just picked up an '06 Uly last weekend and am in the process of going through it to get it up to speed. I ordered all the knick-knacks and parts I need to get the bike up to full working order, including Harley transfer case oil, Rider comfort kit, K&N air filter and Buell oil filter. Here's what I have planned, please let me know if there's anything else I should consider. I know there are a lot of differences between the various years, so I'm still not sure what things I should and shouldn't do with my '06 (with 5500 miles). 1. Oil change: Will replace filter and oil, probably going to go with Amsoil, but am considering Rotella at 2500 miles OCI. Special Harley oil going into transfer case. 2. Replace air filter with K&N. Any problems with this? 3. Install rider comfort kit. Anything to look out for? Is it true no fan reflash for the ECM exists for the '06? 4. I've heard the ECM should be moved. Should it be moved and if so where? 5. Any weak spots or defects/recall stuff I should look out for? 6. The kickstand just seems wobbly and not real secure when it's deployed. Is this by design? Any improvements possible here? 7. I'd like a much better windscreen. I'm 6'2 and would like to have it deflect the air over my head. I see some guys have these brackets that extend the windscreen in a way that apparently does this. Is there a good product that's been well verified to work and that everybody uses for this? 8. What about taillight/brake light/headlight flashers or other lighting safety add-ons? 9. What about additional instrumentation? I'd like to have an ammeter, oil temp and oil pressure gage if possible. Anyone do that? Any other suggestions or things to look out for, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance for any help! (Message edited by general_ulysses on March 28, 2013) | ||
| Ratbuell |
New Ulysses owner section: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442053.html?1238017122 | ||
| Froggy |
1 - Amsoil is a good choice 2 - I would stick with the stock air filter. The K&N just lets more dirt into the motor. 3 - The fan shroud is a pain in the ass to install. I ended up skipping that part. No reflash on 06/07 4 - Yes move the ECM, there are a bunch of threads on here regarding that, use the search and type in "ECM relocation", set it to only show the Big Bad and Dirty section. There are different solutions depending on how crafty you are, you can get away with stuffing it in between the battery and fuse boxes on the 06/07. 5 - Rear wheel bearings are the biggest weak spot in my opinion. 6 - The kickstand design is weird, and there was a recall on some 06/07s due to it snapping off, take a look at this to see if you have the old or new pivot: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B063A-263609.pdf 7 - Windscreens are a bit subjective, everyone has their own needs. Adjustable brackets from Palmer Products in the UK will give you some more flexibility with height and aim. Buell has two different windshield sizes, the stock short one, and a 4" taller one that came stock on the XT. There are some aftermarket ones from Zero Gravity, Palmer, and others. Palmer brackets and windscreen - http://s410372035.initial-website.co.uk/accessorie s/select-bike/buell-xb12x-xt/ 8 - I don't have any good answers for this 9 - You can easily add a LED volt meter to the dash that ties into your cigarette outlet to monitor power. American Sport Bike sells a nice dipstick that has a thermometer built in allowing you to check your temperature, but it still requires you to get off the bike to look at it. I don't know of any way to check the pressure, but given how low the pressure is on these bikes I don't know a way you could reliably do that. Other suggestions? - Buy a 2010 rear wheel. Get a new drive belt, install it, and keep the old one as an emergency spare. Check the "77" connector and replace if it is the older style. Again do a search on here we have a wealth of knowledge already posted. Also check out the new owner FAQ (link at the top of the main page), it may have some answers for questions you didn't ask yet. | ||
| Tootal |
If you ride jeep trails or ride a lot in the city, a lot of us have changed to the XB9 primary which lowers the gearing ratio 11 percent. If you want more steering degrees you can retrofit the 2008 triple trees using your stock forks. 2010 rear wheel as mentioned is a good way to go. I put a few more holes in the air box and installed a K&N filter. At that point you will need to learn about ECMSPY. Do a search, it allows tps reset, diagnostic ability and you can play with your fuel maps if your comfortable with that kind of stuff. Froggy mentioned the rest and Ratbuell is correct also. | ||
| Etennuly |
I installed the fan shroud in mine and one other Uly. It is the piece of the puzzle that helps keep the seat cooler. It is a PITA to fit in but after a few attempts it will go in.....just do not remove the front screw on the ECM bracket. It will be loose enough to turn out of the way. I added LED clearance marker lights in my hand guards and on a custom license plate bracket I made. Also put Hi-Vis truck reflective tape on the side bags. It really makes it light up better on the Interstate highways.....ergo, safer in night traffic.   With some ambition and a little talent you can make your own windshield to suit your own needs. I have been riding year round in East Tenn., which means some cold wet and sometimes snowy weather. So I built a Big Ass Windshield.  | ||
| Ratman |
Might wanna check out the Madstad windsheild setup. My 06 has this and Im 6'2" myself and find it pretty decent even with it still 1/2 way down. Personally Im not comfy running Rotella T5 15/40 or the 5/40 T6. If I could find real diesel oil in 15/50 Id never run anything else again. I use Mobil 1 15/50 in my bikes. The kickstand is a trip, like a wobble stick when down. Far as the ECM, I didnt like it floppin around so I left it where it is. From what Ive read its hit an miss on the seat contact thing. The large plastic block on the front ECM bolt is there to hold the seat pan off the ECM and further the corner of the front most wiring plug. This is what led to cracked ECM's. Myself I just took some putty, placed it on the ecm and block,found where the putty squeezed thin like it might hit and removed some seat pan so there s no way it can hit. I also left a small blob of putty on the ecm corner to check periodically for lessening room between the two from seat pan sag from engine heat. So far, so good. The K&N battle...as sensitive as oil wars. I do have one in the ULY and gauze types in the others so Im being hypocritical here. Theres a reason K&N tells you the dirtier it gets the better it works however. That means the holes in the gauze (hold it up to the light and look thru the media)that were letting the dirt into your intake, are now sealed by oily dirt deposits and it works better. All the big name racers use them,they also rebuild every season, if not every few races. Next time, or if ever you blast thru a talc bed in the desert think about this one OK, Just my $.02 worth on K&N. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Polly heaters are nice. The kit from Al for the bar mounted heat selection is nice, thermostat is nicer, but I am between rev's right now... Probably have the final version ready by fall. Real bark busters are nice, we scared some up from Amazon, don't know if they are still there. Combined with the big ATV wind blocks it stays quite comfortable down below freezing. The hard side bags are nice if you didn't get some with the bike. And the "operator tubes" from the tractor place are nice to cache tools on the bike. I still have the older wheel... I just watch the bearings and pack spares (with spare spacer) on the bike for longer trips. Fine so far. | ||
| General_ulysses |
Wow, thanks everyone for awesome advice. I especially appreciate the detailed/itemized response froggy. And I have been searching and reading the forum as much as I can, especially in the knowledge vault. But some stuff I don't even know about yet, so I cant enter search terms to find the unknown. Anyway, I really do appreciate the help. Froggy you say the K&N lets more dirt in and my first instinct was to get a standard paper filter for that reason, but then they were just about the same price so I opted for the K&N instead. Is there enough space in the airbox for a thin oiled-foam prefilter to wrap around the K&N? How big of a problem are the wheel bearings? Is this mostly a case where they used cheap chinese bearings and/or possibly poor assembly technique? Or is the fundamental design of wheel bearing config bad? I don't mind paying for premium Swiss bearings and doing a proper install if that were to fix the problem (had similar problems on my singlespeed mountain bikes with cartridge bearing rear hub). You mention replacing the drive belt. How often should it be replaced? My bike only has 5500 miles so I'm hoping to get more use out of it. Unless the older belts were somehow inferior to what's available now? How many miles can you reliably expect to get out of these belts with "normal" usage. By "normal" not babying it but not endlessly popping the clutch either. Spirited but otherwise responsible riding. I didn't know about this connector 77 problem. I see they sell one on American sportbikes. That'll be on my next order. And I plan on getting the ECMSPY, but where do I get the software? On American sportbikes they sell the connector/interface kit but don't mention where the shareware is to be had. Ratman I'll inspect the ECM and see if I have seat contact. Not sure where it should be moved in the event there is contact, but I'll try and figure that one out. I've been to Madstad's website and their stuff looks pretty good. The only thing I don't like is that you have to cover up the factory flyscreen (or whatever they call it) with their black plastic screen overlay. I like the looks of my orange flyscreen plus the added visibility it provides in traffic. I dunno, maybe their setup could be painted to match the rest of the bike and recoup the visibility. Guess it's a toss up between them and Palmer. Ettenuly your bike looks really dialed in. You went all in on your windshield, which looks to be perfect for year round riding and also looks like it would blow rain right over your head in the summer too. I like that idea, but I may go with something a little more modest in size. Probably something like the biggest one Madstad offers or something similar. Still your setup shows me what's possible if I really got into cold weather riding - or "bad weather biking" to be more precise. Reep I saw the grip heaters for only 50 bones on american sportbike. Thinking about getting them, think they're ok? And my bike came with two factory hard side bags. A little scuffed up but otherwise in good working order. I don't have a trunk yet, might look to pick up a used one. The "operator" tubes you speak of, are those the ones I saw on the picture of ratman's bike? They look a bit like resealable plastic welding rod tubes, is that what they are? Last question: In the event of a failed rear wheel bearing or a snapped drive belt, assuming you brought along spares, how difficult is it to replace these items on the side of the road? The bike doesn't have a centerstand so I'm having trouble visualizing how it would all work without serious improvisations (i.e. finding old cinderblocks or big pieces of wood on the side of the road etc to hold the bike up while the rear wheel is removed). | ||
| Froggy |
The airbox is pretty roomy, you shouldn't have an issue with that.
It seems to vary, too many factors involved leading to failure, some will go a billion miles without a failure, some will only get a couple thousand. The issue is with the wheel design, so it is not something you can fix by dropping in expensive bearings. The 2010 wheel is the fix, it was redesigned to add another bearing on the sprocket side, and all the bearings are larger, and have an extra dust seal on the end.
When it snaps. It has no scheduled service interval, and like the bearings they either last forever or not long, or somewhere in between. The newer belts are stronger and more durable. The problem with a new belt is that it is really tight, making it a pain to install. It is recommended you do a swap as preventative maintenance, and if it ever did break, the old used stretched belt will easily drop in on the side of the road.
I believe it comes with it, if not it is a free download. You can Google to find a link, the author requested we do not link to it on here. There are two programs called ECMspy, one is the old free one that is discontinued, and then the newer (ECMspy Mono) one requires you to pay for it.
I've seen both in person, and own Palmers, I personally feel the Palmer is a superior product and it bolts right on without replacing the flyscreen.
The belt is easy, just remove the belt guards, remove the swingarm brace, loosen axle, and it will fall right on (assuming used belt). Bearings will require a wheel removal, so tow to a shop and use your carried spares if needed. If you really want to remove the wheel, you can gently lay the bike on its side, and you will have access to easily remove the wheel. | ||
| Reepicheep |
What Froggy said. Once I hit 20k miles, I ordered a new belt, carefully folded the old belt like a band saw blade (don't do that to a new one) and I keep it in the side bag. I keep replacement bearings, spacer, and bag latch in a "jump kit" I throw in a side bag for any kind of trip. I'm on my third Buell now (80k+ Buell miles?) and have yet to break a belt. Can't say the same for my bikes with chains. I don't like any kind of external grip heater. It messes with the grips or replaces them, and the throttle side has a wire that is prone to breaking. I like the cartridge heaters (polly, Dennis Kirk has them). They take longer to warm up, but last forever. I built a microcontroller thermostat for mine, with the two position switch you end up chasing temps all over the place. You can pull either wheel (carefully, in a pinch) with a floor jack under the right end of the exhaust can, and the side stand down. Tippy, and a little risky, but I've done it and it works fine. In spite of the presence of Yungling and a bad influence.  | ||
| Ftd |
What I have done to my '06: KN filter, Drummer exhaust, American Sport Bike Direct Link MAP, cut up '06 air box Drummer catch can, side bags, front fender, right side scoop, Vista Cruise throttle lock, tank bag, black chin spoiler middle section, underseat bag, Aprilla mirrors, moved horn, wired both lights on, dipstick temp. gauge, dash mounted LED voltage monitor, 2010 rear wheel, FS belt tensioner, tall windshield with palmer brackets and I recently bought the Rick Mayer seat that was in the classifieds and s/b be on my bike Tuesday. Not sure about the seat yet but all my other mods MUST be done to make any '06 ULY complete...just kidding but if I had to do it all over again I wouldn't change a thing. (including the controversial FS belt tensioner) Frank | ||
| Mnrider |
The large 2 wire connector under the front sprocket cover is the dreded "77" connector. Some had a problem with it melting and/or losing contact and causing charging issues. There is a kit from hd for it or like I did cut it out and solder the wires and installed a volt meter. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Kickstand bolts are smallish and mine had worked loose over 5 years. Had the wobbles of a broken tripod. I check regularly now. Breathers have to come out of airbox with whatever system you choose. Best mod for cleaner running I've done. Thoughts on air cleaner, still running stock style, look at briggs & stratton, they run foam in all kinds of dirt . Real deal I think ! Wish you a bunch of fun with yours as they are real interactive but when the 12x is on, its freaking on ! | ||
| General_ulysses |
What is an FS belt tensioner? Is there something wrong with the stock belt tensioner? How much is a 2010 wheel and bearing setup? I'm almost afraid to ask, all this stuff starts to add up. After thinking about it I'm kinda regretting buying the K&N. I saw they sell a Uni filter at DK. I'm well familiar with them and a little more comfortable with their filtration ability...especially if I put a pre-filter over top of it. Hmm, maybe I'll return the K&N and switch to the Uni. I checked my kickstand bolts and they seem tight. The pivot bolt just seems to accommodate flexiness and movement in the kickstand. I don't understand why they built it that way, especially without the option of using a centerstand. Sounds like Palmer brackets are the way to go, I already have the larger screen on the bike. Reep can you show me what type of heater is best for the grips? I searched for Polly on DK but the ones I see appear to be for snowmobiles with a thumb throttle. As far as roadside repairs, I guess I'm going to have to practice removing the rear wheel using only what I have on me on the road. I might even create a mini-collapsible roadside stand/prop or something for that purpose. Froggy I discovered how roomy the airbox was today by opening it up. There was a huge rodent's nest inside, bigger than anything I've ever seen after working on motorcycles, lawnmowers and cars for 35+ years. It was a mouse hotel complete with dogfood buffet serving quarters. | ||
| Ratman |
Hey General, regarding the Madstat shield..its a metal complete replacement front panel. The OE is removed and the new one screwed into place with tilt and height adjustability. Ummm...yeah....them friggin mice..They did a fine job on the wiring harness in my new truck. Bastages are ruthless when it comes to nesting time. The story with the belt tensioned is the stocker is fixed I believe. Full drop of the suspension evidently stretches the belt pretty bad and this is when it eventually weakens and snaps. The FS tehnsione is spring loaded and is made to keep even tension over the full range of travel. my 06 run one and its pretty cool. Not to discount some of the nagging little things, but keep in mind not every bike suffers the things you read about. Belts are very subjective, sure buy a spare but one should last many miles but it depends on abuse levels. HD says belts and sprockets are made to last 60K miles. The narrow belt bikes/kits are about the same as a Uly belt. But most guys don't do wheelies on HD's or ride then in the dirt,rain,snow,deserts,mud etc.  | ||
| Luftkoph |
The charging system on this bike is crap IMHO it has cost me lost vacation time,and left me stuck in beautiful Flint Michigan.I finally replaced the thing with after market parts cycle electrics stator and V/R completely by- passing the infamous 77 and going straight to the battery,beware the 77 get's a little funky and your V/R is toast and then it seems to then take out the stator. | ||
| Arry |
The 06 sidestand is subject to a recall, so you might get a free upgrade through a HD dealership. Also, 06 & 07 had a recall on the BAS "bank angle sensor" (also should be free update). It shuts off the motor if the bike tips over. Some had problems with the BAS, I haven't had mine replaced. Check on recalls in the "New Ulysses Owner" section. | ||
| Ftd |
General, Best thing to do is to search this site for info on the Free Spirit belt tensioner. It is a spring loaded device that regulates the belt tension better than the stock unit and maybe prevents belt breakage. People can argue about that all day long but I think most people can agree that it looks pretty darn neat! A bit pricey though. Frank | ||
| Reepicheep |
The free spirit tensioner becomes another maintenance item and another failure point. On my 2000 m2, running the belt to tight caused transmission damage. On my 9sx, stock belt setup was brilliant untouched for 30k miles. So I thought the ugly guys running the free spirits unit were creating real problems by trying to fix something that wasn't broken. Then I got a uly, and I'll be darned, with two up full luggage and bumps I could feel that suspension bin find up back there, presumably due to the belt. I still like simple and cheap though, so I just drilled the mounting bolt holes in the tensioner a little larger. This let's it pivot slightly before it bolts down and gives a little more room for error. Now, I can get the belt on and off easier, and I don't feel the binding anymore. | ||
| Uly_man |
Since you have just got the bike I would "hold fast" on most of that? First is a TOTAL service on the bike. Change ALL fluids and filters. Grease levers, adjust cables, check wiring for damage, engine mounts, etc. Just something as easy as flushing the front brake fluid will make the braking better. Second you do not know the bike or how it SHOULD be running. We can go into that one latter. The main ones on the 06 bike are the rear sub frame Earth, 77 conn and a correct TPS setting. And, of course, the head stock wiring "splice" breaks. Things like big screens, oils, rubber, seats and the like are subjective and as such vary from/to rider. Things, basic, that DO make the bikes better? Just what I have found though. Better mirrors. HID lights. Both ON light Mod. Sinterd pads front and rear. Breather mod. Extra holes in the air box. Air horn if you ride in traffic a lot. Bar weights. Foam grips. Fork oil adjustment. Comfort kit WITH the fan logic if possible. | ||
| Ftd |
Got my seat today. Looks good and is comfortable. A little pricey but what the hey.    | ||
| Luftkoph |
I sure thought about that seat,lets here how it works,since your in sunny fla. | ||
| Britchri10 |
@Luftkoph:You're not the only one who considered that seat. I looked long and hard at it too. I would also like to know how it works out. @FTD: It looks really nice on your bike.Please let us know how comfortable it is. Chris C | ||
| Tootal |
So when your finally bored with pimping your ride you can always do this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/503727.html | ||
| Ftd |
Al asking people about Uly seats reminded me of this thread so ~8 months later... The verdict on the seat is...I love it! Is very comfortable AND looks pretty darn good if you ask me. Worth the $$?? To me it is but YMMV. Frank | ||
| Ftd |
Update on Rick Mayer seat. I went on a decent length ride two up. My wife gives it a thumbs up too. Frank |
