| Author | Message | ||
     Tootal |
While sipping beers around the camp fire at TWO I brought up my latest idea for improving the Uly. I personally rarely use the headlight "flasher" button on the left switch mount. Usually I just use it to prove to somebody that my head light's not out! Now when taking a long ride I like to toggle between my trip mileage and the clock. When I'm wearing gloves it's a PITA to find that little button on the dash. My first idea was to mount a switch on the bars along with some wiring and tap into the button wiring so I could toggle it from the bars. I later thought about the rarely used "flasher button". So my idea is to take the "flasher button" wiring off the head light and connect it to the wiring for the toggle button on the dash. No more blind stabs at speed trying to see what time it is! I would not disconnect the button wiring so I could still set the clock, just have it so I can toggle from both buttons. Nobody around the fire had done this so I thought I'd throw it out there to the collective to see if anyone has already done this or would like to. | ||
| Etennuly |
Wow! You had a different brand of beer going around that fire! The one I was at thinking was out of the question  But we had a bigger fire! I like that idea. Heck, I forgot that switch was up there, or I might have used it for something by now. Oh I see now.....we may not have been "sipping".   (Message edited by etennuly on October 13, 2009) | ||
| Jphish |
For those of us that soldered the 'bridge' in the switch so that both headlites work simultainiously (another way to prove you don't have a headlite out) - would that be an electrical impediment to the 'flasher' button being used to toggle between the trip mileage & clock ?? I'm no electrical whiz - so just wonderin. j | ||
| Froggy |
Tootal, it should be doable, someone a few months ago used remote buttons mounted to the left controls that tied into the gauge cluster to hit those buttons. Should be very similar to setup. | ||
| Tootal |
I'm not sure which "bridge" you soldered. I switched the wires in the connector to get both on in the bright mode. The flasher button is just switch like the one on the panel. I haven't even checked a wiring diagram yet, it's just an idea. Vern, we know you were cheating on the fire! Lighter fluid in the bottom of a beer can in the middle of the fire is not the way the boy scouts do it!! Oh, wait a minute, maybe we did!? The scout master never figured out why one of us had two canteens!  | ||
| Glenn |
Hi, This is the thread about controlling the remote buttons from another, external to the instrument pod, switch. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/432096.html?1236872229 I did the mod and mounted a momentary push button on switch from Radio Shack on the small flat area inside of the hand guard on the left. I can easily reach it in that spot. I've been real pleased with the mod. | ||
| Tootal |
Thanks Froggy, you must have posted while I was typing. I believe you are correct, should be a no brainer. I'll get my shop manual out and check the wiring diagram. On another topic, thanks for offering the ride on the CR. If we weren't so far away from home I would have taken you up on it. Just my luck a deer would run out and tag me while riding your machine!  | ||
| Hooper |
I like the idea - I'm always jealous of the 1125 riders with their big buttons. I do use the flasher from time to time, when I'm in the passing lane and some numbnut is camped out there at 54mph. In Europe and other other countries, this is the accepted signal to let someone know you would like them to move aside and let you pass. In America (or at least around the nation's capital), this is considered "aggressive driving" and can get you pulled over and cited within an inch of your livelihood (license suspension, mandatory court appearance, need for an attorney, etc.). Passing on the right is unlawful in many places too, which puts us poor, conscientious, active riders/drivers in a pickle. | ||
| Tootal |
Glenn, thanks a lot. I never heard of anybody doing this. While reading all the threads provided I noticed Ratbuell had even chimed in and he was only a camp fire away!! From the sound of things, nothing at that fire would have made any sense!  | ||
| Tootal |
You're right Hooper, it is mainly a European thing. I remember getting flashed on the autobahn and having to whip it in front of some guy to avoid a porsche. It was white w/green doors! My friend told me he was the autobahn meister, he does 160 in the left lane and if you don't get out of his way you will get a ticket!! The German's do some things right!! | ||
| Jphish |
Tootal - the 'bridge' solder is between the yellow/Blue wire in headlite switch. It keeps everything on the stock circuit and cuts off the headlight in start mode. I'll see if I can locate the thread on that subject. I initially did the pin swap and subsequently had connector problems - my own hamfisted electrical incompetence - I like the new connection better. j | ||
| Froggy |
Yep, the Autobahn is awesome, I watched a History channel thing about it. Turns out the Autobahn has less accidents and fatalities per mile than any US highway. | ||
| Galloper |
Blink blink, move over. http://www.bernerzeitung.ch/panorama/vermischtes/K ommt-eine-Corvette-geflogen/story/18901594 The guy filming is doing 150km/h | ||
| Jphish |
Tootal - If you go to 'search' and type in "headlight switch mod" set search for past 500 days - scroll down to #5, dated Aug 24th by Tipsymcstagger outlines the reasons for the bridge instead of the pin swap. Basically pin swap switches circuit to #8 Accessory fuse instead of #5 lamp fuse & illuminates the low beam, rather than euro lite in park position. For what it's worth. j | ||
| Jphish |
Tootal - oops - on the scroll down...make that #6. j | ||
| Tootal |
That's 93 mph in the car being passed. I was at 110 mph in a 520i BMW,(2.0 liter six cylinder), passing an Audi. I cleared the Audi by inches to make room for the Autobahn meister doing much faster than I was! When they do have an accident on the autobahn there usually aren't survivors and from the video you can see why. Secrets to surviving the autobahn, look waaaaay down the road and check you mirrors constantly. The other option is to have the fastest sled on the road and wear out that flasher button!! There, were back on topic!  Speaking of the flasher button, I just looked at the wiring diagram and it shows a wire coming from the flasher switch but I don't find any reference to the flasher. I'm thinking I can take the flasher out of the loop and just solder the wiring to the back of the circuit board as shown in the other threads. Now I just have to locate the flasher unit. The one thing I'm concerned with is the flasher switch might be just connecting one wire and sharing another with the bright's switch. If that's the case I might be able to use the wires after the flasher unit. More investigation required and too many priorities to tear the bike apart today. If I figure it all out I'll post my findings. Thanks for the response and help.  | ||
| Tootal |
Jphish, you post faster than I can think and type. I think what your telling me that with the bridge soldered the lights will go out on start up as opposed to the connector swap which will leave the low beam on during start up? I noticed in the wiring diagram that there is a wire going to the start switch for the low beam cut out perhaps. Thanks. | ||
| Galloper |
About my flasher button: I disconnected the wires to the lamp. Now I use it as a push to talk button for my PMR. | ||
| Tootal |
Galloper, where did the wires to the lamp come from, the switch or a flasher relay? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'll have to check my wiring diagram, but I think the flash to pass button uses the same wires as the main high beam switch, it's just a momentary switch instead of a latching one. | ||
| Jphish |
Tootal - Yep - that's exactly what I mean. Low beam dims a bit, but stays on during start up. Also the pin swap puts the headlight on the Acc fuse. I didn't know that when I first did the swap and found out when I needed the lights off during my 7-11 holdup...with the bike still running for a quick getaway. The solder bridge cures all that. Tipsy even was kind enough to include photos of the mod. I type the old fashioned way - with 2 fingers. j | ||
| Bonnie |
Tootal, Glad you brought the flasher button idea up again. It sounds just as good now as it did drinking beer around the fire. That is one mod I will do when it gets figured out. My autobahn war story: Army MP. We mostly patrolled in jeeps. But we had two OD green Plymouth sedans with slant six motors. Complete with bubblegum blue light on top and a real siren (Mayberry had nothing on us). First time I was on the autobahn flying wideopen at 90 mph with lights and siren. I was in the fast lane when I realized there was a line of cars behind me flashing their lights at me to get out of the way. Cut the lights and siren and moved over. Driving a jeep you avoided the autobahn unless there was no other way. You had to plan your moves. Really tempting fate. | ||
| Road_kill |
+1 on the flasher button idea ... like Bonnie said good rides, good friends, good beer, good ideas, good times ... Buelltoberfest is awesome | ||
| Tootal |
Well it's a rainy day so no yard work today, guess I'll take the Uly apart and see if I can figure it out... Road_kill is right, good times were had by all! And we got to meet Dave Despain too! | ||
| Tootal |
Ok, here is what I found. The wiring diagram does not show the flash to pass switch. The book points it out but not the wiring diagram. I pulled open the switch housing and saw two wires going to the switch and they ran into the harness going into the windscreen area. I counted ten wires going in and eight wires coming out! WTF! I took the whole harness off and pulled the tubing away and found this:  Hopefully you can see the two splices. Here is the switch and it's two wires:  Here is where these two wires disappear to: BE/YL TO BE  WT/R TO WT  You see, I wasn't going crazy! Bottom line is you will need to run two wires up the tubing and cut and splice the switch wires to them. Once you have that it's just a matter of getting them into the instrument cluster and soldering them to the circuit board. I think I'll find some telephone wire and use it since it's so thin it should be easy to get inside the cluster. I must say, this was more of a job than I thought. Usually when slicing two wires together they do it at the connector, not in the middle of a loom! Probably saved a penny every 5 bikes on the wire they saved!  I'm going to go ahead and do it since it's all apart though. If there's anything unusual I'll take a picture and post it. (Message edited by tootal on October 14, 2009) | ||
| Tootal |
Well in my search for telephone wire I found some 2 wire 20 gauge that will work. I got my coat hanger and pulled the wire through the tubing. On the connector side the plastic tubing is four inches long and is wrapped tight on the end away from the connector. It then has a second piece of tubing going over the rest of the loom. I just pulled the wire through the second piece. I soldered and shrink wrapped the connection to the switch wires and put everything back together. Here is the finished product. My new wires come out at the arrow where the second piece of tubing overlaps the first.  Now to take the instrument cluster apart and run my wire there. Hmmm, just got a call, beer tasting at the "sidebar". I'll continue tomorrow! | ||
| Riding_tall |
I think that wiring the flasher to the cluster is a great idea. Especial after I almost ran into the back of a stopped car this weekend because I was F'n around trying to hit that stupid little little button with my gloved hand while looking down an not where I should have been. Tootal .. I'll let you do all the hard work and then copy you.  Buelltoberfest is awesome Thanks Glitch and crew for getting it all rolling. Had a GREAT weekend. Great riding, Great friends, and I got to meet Dave Despain. I don't often get star stuck err .. never before actually .. well once while talking to Keiko Matsui but anyhow ... after deadduck said how he had been reading his stuff for years and is was an honor to meet him ect .. all I could say is .. "what he said". I was an idiot but that was cool to meet him. Thanks Dave. Things I learned at BTF-III Carry extra sock's and duck tape - just in case. Rubber Dish washing gloves will work in a pinch. A small can of lighter fluid is a good thing to have. I have some box wine in the fridge now. And yes .. thank you very much ... I will have another. Oh .. and your fire was too big anyhow. 10 people will get some of that .. I've frightened everyone else. Someone said they had some drop peg's for sale but I forget who ( sip .. gulp .. same thing ) If the peg's will work for the passenger peg I'm still interested .. PM me. Now to go figure out my F'n electrical issues on the Uly. | ||
| Odie |
And yes .. thank you very much ... I will have another. Oh .. and your fire was too big anyhow. That was funny that night!! | ||
| Tootal |
Hmmmmm, isn't it strange how different camp fires brought out different intellects. Like moths to a different flame. Interesting!  | ||
| Odie |
You are correct. It was like Christmas dinner: we were at the adult table and you guys were at the kids table!! |
