| Author | Message | ||
     Uly_man |
Did HD put that crap thread lock on everything but mainly the Torx bolts. I broke YET ANOTHER one working today. I buy Pro ones and they still break. AND why is it so hard to clean the wheels on these bikes. I have now rubbed on some silicon lube which may help in the future. | ||
| Teeps |
Uly_man Posted on Friday, February 15, 2013 Did HD put that crap thread lock on everything but mainly the Torx bolts. I broke YET ANOTHER one working today. I buy Pro ones and they still break. Not sure, as it's been my experience that a properly torqued fastener does not loosen by itself. So what broke the screw or the tool? | ||
| Motorbike |
Yeah, Buell (H-D) must have gotten a volume discount on the red stuff. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I wish somebody would slap every engineer at Toyota, because they don't use that thread lock on *anything*, or any other kind of anti-seize. Thread lock blue is more about being anti-sieze than it is about being thread locker. Thread lock red is a real thread locker, unless you heat it up before you remove the bolts. The thread locker should make you less likely to break bolts, not more likely. Are you putting them back in with a torque wrench, or at least only using a torx screwdriver? | ||
| Uly_man |
I was trying to take out a T27 bolt. The most common sized one on the bike. Normal steel ones just "twist" the tool bit but hardend ones break off. In the past I have had to use a cold chisel, to break the thread locking seal, before winding the bolt out. A real pain in the ass. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I don't have any issues with mine. I live in Colorado, a very dry climate. Uly_man, I suspect you are having issues with electrolytic corrosion - steel/aluminium/salt air/humid. I would suggest, as Bill said, Loctite Blue or even anti-seize for most of your T-27s and the T-40s(or are they T-45?) in the wheels. Zack | ||
| Tootal |
I agree. Any bolts that rarely come off I use blue loctite. Things that get removed a lot for maintenance get anti-sieze. Especially the screws for the lower cowl that go into the muffler. Red is designed for 1/2" or larger, not 1/4" screws. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Heat them up and use the hand impact driver with a hammer. | ||
| Uly_man |
Any bolts I take out, that have not been removed before, are cleaned of "gunk" and ok after that. Its not electrolytic corrosion just the "gunk". I have had this problem a few times on the bike so am aware of what to do/expect. This stuff is a gray/white color and seems to "bind" with the friction (heat) of removing/fitting the bolt. So I might try an impact driver and then wind them out very slow to stop the friction building. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Uly man, I have found that using a propane torch to heat up bolts that have factory loctite cementing them in makes their removal a sure thing. I made the mistake of not doing this a few years ago when trying to remove the airbox base plate and stripped the torx head out on one of the screws. Hit the others with heat and they practically extracted themselves. Same with the bolts on the rear wheels when I transferred the sprocket and brake rotor to the 2010 wheel. Torched each bolt and broke them free with the impact driver hit with a hammer. Did the same on my son's Uly with no problems. | ||
| Motorbike |
Electraglider_1997, how do you heat up the bolts when they are used to attached a plastic piece or on a painted (or powder-coated) surface that you don't want to destroy with the propane torch? Thanks. | ||
| Teeps |
That's a good question, as open flame and plastic do not play well. I would use a large soldering iron of some form. | ||
| Red450 |
I tried the soldering iron method when I chewed up an airbox plate bolt. Nothing I did ever made it budge. Finally had to drill and tap. Just glad it wasn't in a more serious area. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I used my propane torch on the airbox plate screws. Plastic melts at over 300 degrees for the most part. Pin point the flame onto the head of the screw and get it good and hot before using the impact driver. I'm not sure which powder coated part you are referring to but I'm sure you could get one of these butane torch kits http://www.homedepot.com/buy/bernzomatic-butane-mi cro-torch-kit-330194.html#.USKspmH3gYQ that would put a tiny enough flame on a screw or bolt and not destroy anything. The screw doesn't need to get red hot, just good and hot, for the loctite to give up the grip. That's been my experience anyway. It always works for me. But I always use an impact driver that you strike with a hammer which impact twists the offending bolt just a hair each time you strike with the hammer. Don't impact without the heat because you'll probably twist the head right off the screw or bolt. The heat softens the hardened loctite enough that the impact driver can break it free. Heat and then impact it while it is good and hot. Always works for me on factory loctited screws and bolts. Impact driver is indispensable for motorcycle wrenching. Harbor freight has them cheap. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result? q=hand+impact+ http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Se arch?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keywo rd=hand+impact%20driver&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&sele ctedCatgry=Search+All | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I don't recall where I got my impact driver but I've had it for at least 30 years or more. Probably since high school days. Apparently indestructible. Do yourself a favor and hold the impact driver with a pair of vice grips so that you don't hit your hand with the hammer. You have to pound the impact tool real hard with the hammer and better to miss and hit the vice grips than your hand. Take my word for it. | ||
| Zac4mac |
EG -  I have had mine 30 or 40 years too. Got it to work on my first or second bike, back when most screws were Phillips. That thing is an inch and a half or 2 in diameter - hope you don't play carpenter much.  Z | ||
| Kenm123t |
I use my tig welder turned to its lower range and heat the offending bolt head with out torching the surrounding paint etc. Breaks up the corrosion and thread locker |
