| Author | Message | ||
     Rwcfrank |
I currently have the red/yelow/green light that warns of battery/charging issues. I just bough a cheap LED voltage meter that works quite well for another bike. Which do you think will be better for forecasting a stator VR failure. My guess is the voltmeter will catch spikes in voltage where the led light will not work until its too late. Any thoughts? | ||
| Luftkoph |
When my stator and v/r problems started my eye caught the quick flash of yellow,then it was green for a few hundred miles,this was my first warning,and I never would have seen that with a voltmeter. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I have the red/yellow/green version too. With one LED it really does everything the multi-LED version does with ~5 LEDs. Flashing green- above 15.2V Steady green- 12.9-15.1V Steady amber- 12.7-12.8V Steady red- 12.1-12.6V Flashing red- Below 12V I'm with Doug- it's easy to check because you only need to worry if it's anything other than steady green. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Interesting post We have a digital VM were are getting ready to mount on the Uly. Something to ponder. Thanks | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Thanks Guys, I went and dug up the directions for the LED and forgot it had a mode for overcharging. Guess the voltmeter is going on the 1978 GS750 cafe. | ||
| Uly_man |
Protecting the bikes electronics is a very good idea and I will be getting either one of these. The first one is a waterproof multi-color 10mm LED. The second "N" type is also waterproof and can be either a running dial of LEDs or just one. Both have lots of built in (way to many to list here) progs and settings. They are on E-Bay and cheap enough. A meter is no good and as said you will not see a spike. Also it will not be robust enough long term on a bike. They make various versions of this but these types were designed just for bikes. Simple, easy and cheap.   (Message edited by Uly_man on December 02, 2012) | ||
| Mnrider |
 Believe it or not this volt meter from auto zone still works(4 years) but I now have it mounted under the speedo with some velcro. I wrapped it with clear tape when it was new and it's been waterproof. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I like this one from American Sport Bike. Normally shows 2 greens illuminated, second one flickers with the grips on low heat and goes out for good on high heat. I haven't ridden with heated gear yet since installing the voltmeter. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16076.html  | ||
| Ourdee |
I use the single multi color led and an analog gage. I like to see what the needle is doing. The dummy light tells me to look. | ||
| Ourdee |
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| Ratbuell |
I use the Kuryakyn multi-LED meter on all my bikes, and I swear by them. Accurate when tested next to my shop multimeter, easy to read at a glance, inexpensive, and easy to mount. When my 77 connector went south, I knew it immediately. A quick roadside band-aid got us home, and I replaced the connector the next day with no damage to the stator or VR because I caught the issue so quickly. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I have both the single tri-color LED(Uly) and the Kuryakyn 9 LED bar meter(1125R). Both work well, I like the single LED a little better for its simplicity. The bar meter bothers me in that all the LEDs up to your voltage are always lit. I very much do NOT like anything RED on my dash when all is well. Z | ||
| Uly_man |
Ok I went with this one.  A VERY well built item and looks/feels like its good enough to go to War with. Ignition on charging Mode will give a green light from 13.2 to 15.2 volts and red over 15.2v. Yellow below 11.8v, red at 11.2v. Ignition off mode (if you want it) acts as a security device and flashes every 2 seconds and uses almost no power. Green flashing is 12.5v plus and yellow flashing is below 12.1v. The key bit is to know about overcharging to protect the electronics. Easy to mount it anyplace on the bike. | ||
| Redtail |
Think I am going to try the Gammatronix. Looks good and solid, NOT MADE IN CHINA, made for a bike = outside and wet. Just can't pick single or multi led. I want to try them both out. Did I mention NOT MADE IN CHINA! Sorry sick of cheap crap. | ||
| Djohnk |
Green flashing is 12.5v plus I'm guessing you meant 15.2v plus | ||
| Motorfish |
I have the Signal Dynamics single LED mounted in one of the spare holes in the dash with the rest of the idiot lights. Works great, looks stock, and easy to understand. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Sounds like moto and I have the same set up. Works great, looks stock, and told me when my stator shit the bed. | ||
| Jamba |
I have only good to say about this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-LED-Battery-Monitor- voltage-and-charge-indicator-/150479033981 worked well with me | ||
| Motorbike |
I'm still questioning the usefulness of having this voltage monitor at all. Let's say I am riding through Nebraska and halfway through, the red light comes on. I would know there is a problem but if the stator is bad, I will still end up hauling the bike back to Minnesota, right? When the red light comes on, the damage is already done.... | ||
| Uly_man |
"Green flashing is 12.5v plus. I'm guessing you meant 15.2v plus." No this is IGNITION OFF mode and is showing the battery condition with NO CHARGING from the bike. The easy version is GREEN is GOOD and RED is BAD in either mode. "Did I mention NOT MADE IN CHINA! Sorry sick of cheap crap." Some is but most stuff is from there these days and some is just great. I think it may have been made there. "When the red light comes on, the damage is already done...." A bikes electronics CAN take a big volt hit but NOT a sustained big hit. These devices should be "built-in" to all modern bikes as standard. More use than that "waste of space" CEL junk. | ||
| Motorbike |
I like the idea of mounting the LED in the instrument panel, along with the other idiot lights. Does the pod actually come apart to do this or do you have to cut it open? Any pics? Thanks! | ||
| Uly_man |
Motorbike they do many other versions including what you want. Just check out there site. Many other people make the same sort of thing but what I liked about these was the BIG spec on control, auto fuse, etc. I understand what you were saying about this sort of thing but I came across this problem, over my vacation period (don't ask), while reading about other modern and even the latest bikes. It seems like it is a very common problem so I have decided to do something about it. It easy and cheap anyway so why not. | ||
| Motorfish |
Check this out. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/335986.html?1202653245 I like the Gamma`s security feature, and it may be able to be mounted in the dash. First time I heard of them. | ||
| Ferrisanyoneseenferris |
I have the one PKForbes87 has- and it just started lighting up the one thats yellow, past the green 2 that are where its supposed to be. Am I looking at a problem in the future? Its never done it before and only does it at idle, and only a slight flicker. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I like the Gamma`s security feature, and it may be able to be mounted in the dash." Yes they do a version that you could mount into the dash with all the other lights, as it will not need to be waterproof, and is very cheap. About 15 bucks. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I have the one PKForbes87 has- and it just started lighting up the one thats yellow, past the green 2 that are where its supposed to be. Am I looking at a problem in the future? Its never done it before and only does it at idle, and only a slight flicker." The idea of these devices is to warn of any problem so yes look into what it might be. "Normally shows 2 greens illuminated, second one flickers with the grips on low heat and goes out for good on high heat. I haven't ridden with heated gear yet since installing the voltmeter." The problem is that a Vee-Twin, unlike a 4, needs all the power it can get to start well. Heated gear puts a BIG drain on the battery which the charging system can not quickly make up. Even without this you need a long run just to put back in what starting the bike has taken just starting it. And why not? Well it is, as always, about money. A bigger charging system costs more. Simple as that. Easy and cheap(ish) to change on a car but not on a bike as it is built into the engine system. You just need to see the price of a charge system up-grade on a older Pan Euro to know that. Veery scary. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Uly man, changing bulbs to LED can ease the draw, I use LED's for the license plate lamp and HID for the headlmap(which I have no idea if it draws more). One of the killers is short rides with the fan running for 2 minutes after shut down. I keep mine on the trickle charger, especially during the colder months. | ||
| Uly_man |
All true. All my lamps and indicators are LEDs and have HID on both lights which DO draw less power. My fan never runs on shut down and I am thinking of "up-ing" the speed controlled "run time" on the bike to save power as well. The 10 bike starts well even in 0C conditions but I think I am getting the old "starter button" contact problem. They will just need a clean. I have had it before on the 06 bike. I have no access to a power point to charge the battery while on the bike. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-solar-battery -charger-68692.html | ||
| Uly_man |
Nope I have the EXACT same one and it is TOTAL rubbish. It is old tech and you need the new type that will still work in dim (cloudy daylight) light. | ||
| Ferrisanyoneseenferris |
Thanks UlyMan. |
