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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through September 09, 2012 » 21 code... here we go again « Previous Next »

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Mad_doctor
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 08 Uly XT, threw a 21 code with check engine light. I live two and a half hours away from the dealer. it will still be covered(under 18,000 miles). The mechanic told me there are too many things it can be other than the actuator. he said it could even be an injector problem. I wanted to have him order the actuator, I would pay for shipping and restock, (if it wasn't needed). He told me I would still have to leave the bike. Meaning two trips with the trailer. That really sucks! are there really that many different problems when you get a 21 code?}
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Metra6924
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doc, according to the factory electrical diagnostic manual, code 21 is related to the exhaust valve actuator: "A Code 21 will set if the ECM detects that the output for the Interactive Muffler Control Actuator is not in agreement with the feedback circuit.
-Mechanical fault in the actuator, valve or cable.
-Electrical fault in the actuator circuit.
-Electrical fault in the actuator feedback circuit.
-Electrical fault in the brake light or horn circuits."

The diagnostic flow chart and wiring diagram indicate that there may be a fault in the neutral safety switch or muffler feedback wires.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's very easy to check the actuator yourself. Remove the outer air box cover (4 Torx screws) to expose the inner air box. The actuator sits on top of the inner air box. Turn the kill switch to the "off" position. Twist the throttle to the fully open position. Turn the ignition key on. Now, while watching the actuator, flip the kill switch to the "run" position. The silver quadrant attached to the exhaust valve cable should cycle fully open, then fully closed. If it hesitates while moving, doesn't move at all, or moves part way, the gears in it have failed and it's bad. If that's the case, you can go to the dealer confident that that's the problem.

You also shouldn't have to leave the bike at the dealership if it is the problem and they have the part on hand. It's a 15-minute maximum job to replace the actuator.
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Kip
Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I just changed mine I didn't need to because I dont use it but I hated looking at the check engine light. The test is what made me order the $163 part, it was hesitating pretty badly. No problems since
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Mad_doctor
Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I appreciate all the feedback, I will check it when I get back home. I have been pretty busy lately, and am out of the country until Sunday. Thanks again,
Tim
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Treefrog
Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My actuator failed about 4,000 miles ago. (the gears stripped). I wired the muffler valve open and used TunerPro RT to disable the check engine light for the active exhaust control circuit (or whatever it is called). Bike is still getting it done and no check engine light glaring at you. No stealership visit necessary.
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Eryngium
Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got a 21 code recently and it was the horn. The fuse was blown. Not saying that's your problem, just reiterating that it's good to make sure and rule out the simple things first.
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Djohnk
Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bet you can find a used actuator for cheap ... many people don't need them with non OEM cans installed. That's what I did when mine went out. No need for a trip to the dealer, its easy to change.
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Arcticktm
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2012 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...and don't forget the simple stuff. My '06 threw the 21 code a year or 2 ago.
I found that the cable was sticking, so the actuator could not power through and make it move.
A thorough cable lube and it has been good ever since.
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Smorris
Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2013 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

or buy the FoMoCo part replacement
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