| Author | Message | ||
     Joypipe |
Removed bolts for brake caliper. Lifted back end just off the floor. Loosened the bolt under the axle. Using the 22mm end of that cool axle tool (with 4 sizes on it) and a 3/8" ratchet I can't budge the axle. Lefty loosy right? I can't get the mother f'er to turn. I'm a big guy - (240 lbs). Please tell me I'm doing this wrong... Did the guys who changed my last tire over tighten the axle and cause my bearings to fail? 719-zix/foor/ate-9050 my phone if you dare call me. Colorado Springs GRRR!!!! | ||
| Etennuly |
A 3/8" drive ratchet???? How long of a pipe do you have on it? Hope it is guaranteed!!  1/2" drive long ratchet at minimum. You are breaking away about 50 ft lbs of torque. If you got all 240 on that little ratchet you will break your wrists! A lot of folks put a foot of pipe extension on a 1/2" drive. It is right handed thread. You MUST have a 1/2" drive torque wrench to install it. There is no guessing to this axle when installing it! | ||
| Froggy |
 Get the proper tool to remove it, it should come off with minimal fuss, unless the wheel was put on without lubing the axle or overtightened. | ||
| Joypipe |
It's harbor freight  I have a 1/2" breaker bar (16" long) but the socket for the axle is 3/8". My torque wrench is 3/8" new from harbor freight for $20. The socket is http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9153.html and got for $25 at a local store. I think I'm missing some of my tools... thought I had a 1/2" to 3/8" socket but can't find it. I'll hit the store again tomorrow and get a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter... unless someone is going to kick me in the balls for that. If I have the adapter I can trade in the 3/8" torque wrench for a 1/2" torque wrench. I tried a cresant wrench on it (about 12" long) but it didn't budge. Thanks for the quick response! (Message edited by Joypipe on June 07, 2012) | ||
| Joypipe |
I figured it should have minimal fuss so I was beginning to think it was over-tightened or something (lube). The service manual says "Loctite Anti-Sieze Lube" and I bought some "Honda Pro Anti-Sieze lube". That should do the trick right? | ||
| Rwven |
I use a 3/8 drive torque wrench on mine, works just fine. I remove it with a 3/8 ratchet with a 2' piece of 1-1/4 pvc pipe cheater bar. I've used my 240 lbs standing on the 3/8 ratchet to loosen it before when I didn't have a chunk of pipe handy. 240# on the end of an 8" ratchet handle will loosen a fastener tightened to 50 ft/lb. | ||
| Joypipe |
I'm not against making another trip to the store but I need a better idea of what I need. I can't believe the service manual doesn't detail the size of hex bit you need for this. | ||
| Jk651 |
If the previous owner used the wrong Loctite, it may take an impact socket and driver to loosen it. Blue Loctite is for things you want to take apart some day, red Loctite is for things you are unlikely to ever disassemble. If it was put together with red Loctite it may take an impact wrench and a torch to break it free. | ||
| Etennuly |
There should have been a 7/8" double ended hex driver in your little blue tool pouch that came with the bike. That goes in the end of the axle, then a 7/8" socket goes on it. Often when the axle has not been removed in a long time, or the previous mechanic did not coat it in never-sieze lube, it can be very difficult to remove the axle. I have seen first time removed axles, with corrosion in them, take a four foot cheater pipe on a long 1/2" drive breaker bar. Remember it will loosen counter clockwise. | ||
| Rwven |
He better not have used any Loctite at all, anti-seize only on the axle please. You don't need a hex bit at all, there is an adapter in the tiny tool kit that comes with the bike. One side goes in the end of the axle (front or rear) and you use a standard socket or combination wrench on the other side. | ||
| Rwven |
If you have an impact wrench you can safely use it to remove the axle. DO NOT use it to re-install it. The bearing/spacer setup on the Buell is very easily damaged by over-torquing. | ||
| Joypipe |
Thank you for mentioning that toolkit item.. I have actually never known what it is for... till now... Attempting to use the right tools!! | ||
| Rwven |
Joypipe, the Honda Pro anti-sieze will be fine. The procedure for tightening the axle is to torque it to 25 ft lb to seat everything, back the axle out 2 full turns and then re-torque to 50 ft lb. The pinch bolt gets tightened to 40 ft lb. The front axle gets tightened to 40 ft lbs and the front axle pinch bolts to 20 ft lb. | ||
| Jk651 |
Lol. I feel silly. I saw Loctite and just glossed right over the anti-seize part. When I see loctite I automatically think thread lock. I should try reading better. I'd like to think that someday I will learn, but most likely I never will. | ||
| Djohnk |
Ha,Joypipe ... I had the same problem the first time I loosened that axle. I'm a big guy and thought I was going to break something on the bike. I double checked here to make sure the threads weren't backwards, then proceeded to get a big pipe and broke it loose. On assembly I slathered the axle in anti-seize and haven't had the problem since. | ||
| Joypipe |
First, thank you everyone for your excellent help. I used the tool and my 7/8 socket, 1/2" breaker and on my third attempt (heal on the end) it broke free. Manually it didn't budge. I didn't have any pvc or pipe to cheat it so only had 16". The axle was covered in green stuff. (is green good?) Sprocket side bearing looks good. Brake side bearing won't turn. VERY tiny play in bearing spacer. What tool setup would be proper to torque the pinch bolt? I'll exchange the 3/8" torque wrench for a 1/2" and use the 7/8" socket with toolkit axle tool to torque the axle. There are a few other items from the toolkit I have yet to figure a use for. The cable? The 2 metal wrenches? Time to pay someone to pull/set bearings. | ||
| Rwven |
Is green good? Hopefully it just happens to be the color of the anti-seize or grease the last installer used. The cable is for attaching the D-ring on your helmet to the helmet lock. I leave the cable on the helmet lock at all times, but I never use it! The two metal wrenches are for show, because they aren't really very good for anything. In theory you can fit one end on the axle adapter, how well do you think that would have worked for you? The other will adjust the fork preload, again in theory, a socket with a long extension is much better. The torque on the pinch bolt isn't super-critical, as tight as you can get it with the supplied allen wrench will work. A good set of allen sockets is a plus though. (Message edited by rwven on June 08, 2012) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
BTW, you didn't need to remove the rear caliper to get the rear wheel off. My suggestion is to clean off the axle with a scotchbrite pad and grease the whole thing. Most people here say to use anti-seize but I am a big fan of good old fashioned grease. Remember when reinstalling that you don't need to torque it like it owes you money! | ||
| Ratbuell |
The wrenches are throwbacks to XB-S and XB-R toolkits. They're the same kit, and they're for suspension adjustment. The Uly is the only one with a rear preload knob, remember? And the 7/8 wrench doubles for fork preload adjustments. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I "paint" my axles, end-to-end with silver anti-seize. Always come out easy. | ||
| Xbimmer |
What he ^^^ said. Antiseize is this bike's second best friend. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
This...   Has never failed me. | ||
| Zac4mac |
For my 1125's toolkit, I made a 7/8 wrench collapsible. Not a lot of space there, I can mount my spare belt roadside tho...   Z |
