| Author | Message | ||
     Paul56 |
My 105,505 mile 06 Uly started developing a noise a couple of weeks ago. Not a knock, more of a grinding noise, evident at cold start and getting worse as it warms up. It is rpm dependent. Road speed or gear selection do not affect it. It has progressed to the point of causing me pain to hear it (not to mention the desire to avoid being towed home). I tried adjusting the primary tight and loose- no effect. I pulled both drain plugs- no unusual metal on either one. Removed the primary cover to inspect the chain and adjuster shoe- both good. I was unable to remove the oil sender with the exhaust in the way, but watching the oil return into the swingarm at idle seemed to be normal flow (not a good method, but it is getting at least some oil flow). I pulled the oil pump and inspected the drive gear through the hole- can't see anything alarming. I've begun the rotation process to remove the right side cover and inspect. I'm leaning toward possible main bearing noise. As I said, it doesn't knock, so I don't suspect a rod or rod bearing. Possibly a trans bearing noise?? Dunno. Kind of disappointing. I wanted to take it on a long tour this summer. I need to find a worthy backup. My Honda XR650L is good for occasional commuting (70 miles a day, all freeway), but I hate to use it up that way. I rode a new BMW 1200 GS last weekend (local dealer Irv Seaver celebrating 100 years in business) and could possibly see myself getting an older one to stand in for the Uly while I get it fixed. At least I could go an extra day between fill-ups! | ||
| Datsaxman |
Hey... I used to go into Irv Seaver all the time and eyeball the 1923 BMW. That was a few years ago I guess... Nothing to add about the noise, just wanted to say... | ||
| Mhevezi |
Dude, 105k on a Sportster-based engine is a miracle. Time for a rebuild, is what it sounds like. No offense, but you def got your money outta that bike. | ||
| Garrcano |
Does the noise change with the clutch engaged or disengaged? Maybe it's "only" one of the two bearing at the clutch hub. | ||
| Crusty |
If you're going to get a used shaft drive bike for a backup, I'd suggest you look at a Moto Guzzi. They're a pushrod V-twin which gives them a bit of "Character" in how they feel as opposed to a boxer motor, they're reliable as an anvil, and used models can be had for very cheap. Older models also handle much better than older Beemers. The bikes are good enough that a Guzzi is my first choice after a Buell. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Dude, 105k on a Sportster-based engine is a miracle. Time for a rebuild, is what it sounds like. No offense, but you def got your money outta that bike. You have obviously not heard of Badwebber Tramp. 250k plus on an un-rebuilt S2. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Agree about the Guzzi. The Quota would make an inexpensive, reliable, and fun short-term replacement for the Uly. Before buying my Uly, I was considering a Quota, an airhead GS, and the Uly. I have owned an airhead GS before, but was interested in a PD. I have owned a Guzzi before...a V65TT, predecessor to the Quota. Uly won out b/c a guy was willing to trade me straight up for my Triumph Tiger. That made it easy. Anyway, sorry to hear about your misfortune. Have you tried to listen with a stethoscope to isolate the source? Bill | ||
| Uly_man |
Sorry to hear that Paul. 100k is not to sad on this engine. Not many other bike lasts that long with no major work need doing. I also think you have had your moneys worth so far. Do not ride the bike any more or you may cause extra work to be done. Like if its a cam shaft shell it may only need that doing but if it damages the alloy head its going to cost a LOT MORE to repair/replace. | ||
| Mhevezi |
Hugh, that's awesome! Nice to hear of some Americon-Iron going the distance! I'm still impressed with 105k on the odo. But, I'm pretty easy to impress. But on this bike, if you are having a crank-bearing failure, best to park it, until you can properly address the issue. Further riding may cause much more serious & expen$ive damage. Good Luck! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Another idea- you could send the oil off for a used oil analysis (UOA); IIRC it'll cost you about $20. That might help you diagnose the source of the noise. Check the forums at bobistheoilguy.com for info. The analysis can tell you what kind of wear products show up in your oil and if any levels are abnormal. | ||
| Etennuly |
Could it be the cam shaft? It has been my experience that when the lifters wear through the hardened surface they can make a grinding noise as they eat the rest of the lobe off. Of course I would think it would be clacking pretty good too. | ||
| Baybueller |
Good on ya for the miles. The only bike I went well over 100k on was a 68 FLH. lost track of the number of rebuilds I did over the years. | ||
| Tootal |
Did somebody say lifters worn through?  | ||
| Raceautobody |
I am with Garrcano. Take the clutch basket off and check the bearing it rides on before taking the cam cover off. | ||
| Paul56 |
Haven't removed the clutch basket. Lack of metal on either drain plug has me a little baffled. I've pretty much decided to pull it and overhaul it. If not now, it's just a matter of time til something gives up, so might as well do it and put an end to the uncertainty. It has a small leak at the front of the front head gasket (been there a while, collecting dirt and making black mud). Maybe I'll make the clutch hub tool I saw posted here before and pull the clutch first just to see. I did pull the oil pump. Everything in there looks good, including the cam lobes I could see. There is no knocking at all (well, more than the usual Genuine Buell Noises I have come to know and love). Guzzi has always appealed to me for many of the same reasons as the Buell: Air cooled, no chain, minimal maintenance. I rarely see them for sale. Still looking at options, as my Honda is filling in nicely for now. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Paul56, Maybe you should of paid up for the synthetic oil instead of the Dino oil. Not that 105K is anything to scoff at. Whatever the problem is, you've ridden an amazing number of miles on that bike. | ||
| Paul56 |
Strictly Castrol Synthetic 20w-50 from 3k miles to about 30k, then Mobil 1 15w-50 since then. Oil and filter changes at 3k miles without fail. Everything I've seen of the inside so far is squeaky clean. Forgot to mention previously that the noise doesn't change with the clutch in or out, in gear or neutral, moving or stopped. Still worth checking the clutch, though. Finding time to work on it is tough with lots of other things going on. | ||
| Jk651 |
Too bad you're not in the Sacto area (or better yet-Reno). I'd drive over and help you wrench. I'd love to get inside and find out what's wrong. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Clutch drum needle bearing gets my vote... --Doc | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Paul56, I must of confused you with another 105K+ Uly rider that claimed to only use cheap dino Walmart Supertech oil. Seems he is an east coast ULY rider that commutes over 100 miles per day to and from work. | ||
| Dirt |
Paul, Sorry to hear about your problem. Hope you get it back on the road soon. Electra, sorry to disappoint you, but my Uly just keeps on running. I've been fortunate. Have had plenty of issues with the bike in general, but none with the engine. Just rolled over 110k.  Time to change the oil. Still "claim" to use  That's one happy bike. All smiles. | ||
| Djohnk |
Dirt, you talked me into using that oil about 3 oil changes back (when you turned over 100K miles). The SuperTech oil works fine, I think the engine runs a little quieter than the t-mobile synth, but that my be a placebo effect. The best thing ... that 5 quart jug lasts two oil changes and costs about $13. Thanks again for the information. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
I'm going to start using that oil.  | ||
| Buelet |
"claim" to use? | ||
| Kenm123t |
its either delo or rotella any one work at walmart ? | ||
| Jk651 |
I bought my 1995 Chevy Blazer in 2005 with 114,000 miles on it. It currently has 265,000 on the odometer, original engine as far as I know. Since the day I bought it I've used the SuperTech synthetic and changed the oil at 10-12k intervals. Even at the current mileage it typically uses less than 1 quart per oil change; generally when it gets low by 1 quart, it's also about time for me to do my oil change. It has the notorious leaky oil lines that go to the remote oil filter, so I'm sure it's leaking more oil than it burns. And BTW, I am not easy on my Blazer. It sees lots of off roading, some trailer towing, and has been severely overheated twice due to electric cooling fan failures. I like synthetic for the extended service intervals and it's resistance to heat, and I intend to use the SuperTech synthetic in my Uly. At $20 for a 5 quart jug it pays for itself in my car with the extended service intervals it provides, and as hot as my bike runs, I think the extra money for the synthetic is worth it, but as far as brands go, my Blazer is proof that SuperTech can hang with the name brand oils. |
