| Author | Message | ||
     Griffmeister |
Just put new pads on the rear, everything went smoothly. I retracted the caliper enough to slide the assembly back on, all clips and pin clean and smooth, took about two or three gentle applications to adjust the brakes up. Brought the bike home, only about three miles, go to push it into my parking space and notice that I'm struggling trying to push the bike. Like I said, everything worked well before and there were no issues with the installation. Could this just be the "raw" pads that need to be broken in? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The rear callipers are the old drag the whole thing sideways on pins style. Grab the whole calliper and see if it's hung up. A little grease on those pins may be a good idea. | ||
| Xbimmer |
+1. Pull out the front pivot pin and clean it and the recess, regrease and then the same with the rear bolt. The caliper is a loose fit around the rotor. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Yeah, I made sure everything was moving freely. Went out and put another five miles worth of stops on them and they free'd right up. Going to put another three hundred plus on them tomorrow, that should finish breaking them in. | ||
| D_adams |
You may need to pull the piston out of the caliper and clean it if it continues to drag. | ||
| Ratbuell |
+1 on piston cleaning. It spent a lot of its life extended and exposed, and now that exposed (dirty) section is back inside the caliper and could be binding on its bore. | ||
| Uly_man |
Although it takes a little more time and effort to do it is a good idea to fully clean/service the brake system on a pad change. More so with these old type setups because they have so many more moving parts and you may not change the pads on the rears for many years. Trust me it is worth doing it right. Do not rush it either. Time in the shop is better than time in hospital or worse. Drive the piston/s out to the width of the two pad materials (not the metal parts) plus the thickness of the disc. This is as far as the piston can come out on the bike and safe to do then clean around the piston edge. Any damage - replace them. Take the cap off the top of the fluid reservoir and clean the underside of the cap and the seal as well. If it has not been done for a while you might see a "white" deposit. That is water ingress and it gets into the fluid as well, rots the alloy inside the system and causes bad braking as well. If you take out the pistons then you should replace the seals. Buy them before you start the work. Get a master seal set as well just in case. With care clean out the inside of the caliper before replacing the seals. WARNING - The caliper MUST be 100% clean and flushed out with brake fluid. Do not do this sort of work unless you are sure about what you are doing. Just a flush through with new fluid once a year will improve braking and keep the insides of the system clean which will make the whole thing last much longer. It will only costs about $10 for the fluid as well. You will be amazed at what 2 hours of work and $10 will do to your bike. |
