| Author | Message | ||
     Pons |
I'm, installing a fuss block for my farkles and need a switched power source preferably near the battery area where Im mounting this block. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I have a shop manual but I don't see on schematic anything labled like that I'm electrically challenged for the most part. | ||
| Desert_bird |
Common practice seems to be tapping a positive lead to the rear auxiliary power plug or tail light, and using that as a way to switch a 30-40 amp fused relay that is connected directly to your positive battery lead and which in-turn, feeds your aux 'fuss' box. If the former; be aware that the ECM will shut off both auxiliary power outlets if voltage drops below a certain level. This can be good or bad, depending on what's connected to your aux fusebox and when you need it. If the latter, be sure you tap the line to the tail light, not the brake light, or else everything connected to the aux fuse box will only work when hit the rear brake! Of course, you could probably do the same by tapping the positive lead from any stock accessory fuse, or the stock relays for either the Ignition, Key Switch or Auxiliary circuit contained further up in the original fusebox. They are are all switched. It's just cleaner tapping it in the back, (more exciting too!) because most aux fuse boxes fit neatly behind the battery compartment in that little tool area. DB | ||
| Pons |
Thats extremely helpful I'll just use that aux. plug in the back, no need to re-invent the wheel...Thanks! | ||
| Uly_man |
Cool Pons  At 40amps what are you thinking of fitting. A Hyperdrive or maybe a sandwich toaster? The bike has enough electrical problems without adding more to the issue. Farkles? The bike can not deal with 5amp heated grips let alone anything else. | ||
| Desert_bird |
A bit on the heavy side, perhaps. A 30 amp would probably be fine as well. My Stebel horn pulls a solid 12-15 amps. Two good aux lights another 5-7 amps. Two 55w HID's each pull well-over 10 amp a-piece when warming up (then significantly lower): http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html I run all the above through an aux fuse box, plus low power stuff like a gps and voltage meter. True that it's rare that one is on the horn when both high and low HID ballasts are just firing; however it's not out of the realm of possibility to be dealing with some high amperage needs when farkling with an aux fuse box. DB | ||
| Reepicheep |
The Uly works brilliantly with 5 amp heated grips. | ||
| Uly_man |
"The Uly works brilliantly with 5 amp heated grips." Yeah try one hour on a 1200 not a 900. A near 35% more start load. (Message edited by uly_man on February 23, 2012) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well, a proper heated grip controller won't start heating the grips until it has detected your bike is running.  (and you can just turn off the grips to start it...) (Oh, and I need to update my profile... I have a Uly now...) (Message edited by reepicheep on February 23, 2012) | ||
| Uly_man |
Well, a proper heated grip controller won't start heating the grips until it has detected your bike is running. A good idea. Which brand of grip does this then. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thank you! But I discovered after I designed and built it that later Uly's already did it. So much for being a visionary... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/656898.html?1319823179 I'm hoping for another redesign when I get the time, it will have some neat new features. But I have a few boards etched and I think I have parts on hand to throw one together, and if you just want a forever buried controller that just always does the right thing without you ever touching a button, it works brilliantly. Let me know if you are interested and I can check what parts I have on hand. If you want to build it yourself, I'll be happy to program a chip and send it to you as well. There is a Newark parts list in that thread I linked. I've been meaning to design and build some that are effectively just "smart relays"... they don't send power out until they sense the bikes VR is successfully charging the battery. I just have to delete a bunch of components and comment out some code from the source. | ||
| Desert_bird |
This is now out of the bounds of this threat, but I think that a properly functioning Uly ECM will power the factory heated grips and the aux power plugs only above a pre-determine charging threshold, and cut power in cases below that threshold, such as when general power requirements becomes too high, low battery, vault vr/stator . . . Another case of protecting us against ourselves. DB (Message edited by Desert_bird on February 23, 2012) | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think that feature showed up later Desert... like 2008. | ||
| Desert_bird |
Must be, Bill. I ride an '08 so that's my reference point. DB | ||
| Pons |
@ ULYMAN, thanks concerning my mug shot with Tigger my Yorkie and travel buddy. I adding 55w driving lights. I already have a GPS, radar detector, heated grips and heated vest/gloves/socks which I've used in the past without any problems. I'm putting a small volt gauge on to keep an eye on the voltage. If it drops using the heated gear I'll just turn off radar detector and GPS to stay warm  |
