| Author | Message | ||
     Kevinaye |
I am sure this has been covered lots but... When I check my primary I have a really tight spot on the chain. When I adjust it and rotate the chain I keep ending up with a really loose section of chain. So where do I adjust it to? I assume it is best not to have a tight spot. But could use some advice. | ||
| Conchop |
OOOOO - You've just touched on an issue that makes my blood boil! There's a lot of vibration that can be generated in the motor because of the primary chain. Back in the 70's 80's and 90's - my HD days, a misadjusted primary chain would lead to a bike that could couple as a paint shaker. Adjust it to the 3/8's inch play on the tight spot or the must snug hot or cold recommended adjustment setting called for by the book. You may want to consider converting to the XB9 chain and sprockets. I hear they are smoother anyway. There should be an automatic chain adjuster in there. Victories have a gear driven primary with compensators that are more civilized. Good luck. | ||
| Buellerxt |
How do you rotate the primary chain to find the tight spot? Thanks. | ||
| Windrider |
Someone should engineer some kind of spring loaded tensioner for that primary chain. That would be slick. The primary chain adjustment is the most problematic adjustment on the bike. | ||
| Windrider |
Buellerxt, You put the bike on the lift, put the tranny in 5th, and rotate the rear wheel by hand while checking primary tension in multiple locations as the primary chain rotates around it,s drive sprocket. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Hum, that's interesting, Windrider, and what I suspected after reading about the adjustment. I say 'interesting' because the Harley tech that I used for ten years never did that. He would check the primary at every service but adjust it wherever it was when he opened it. I was always there so I know that. Anyway, I don't have a lift, and don't really want to get one given the number of times I've read of bikes falling off lifts. I've been adjusting the chain to 3/8" but at the spot it is in when I take the primary inspection cover off and that may be worse than leaving it alone, I guess. If it's at the tight spot it would be good but if at a loose spot I may be leaving it too lose? ERRRR! It's looking like Froggy had a good point on the primary chain adjustments. (Message edited by buellerxt on January 28, 2012) | ||
| Windrider |
Buellxt, When in doubt on primary chain adj err on the side of loose. Too loose can cause vibration and shifting issues. Too tight can cause bearing failures. Some bikes have very little variance for the tight spot and others have more. I would advise to check it out at least one time to get a feel for it on your own bike. | ||
| Froggy |
Yea, and you need the strength of a Rhino to do that. I can't get the wheel to rotate any more than that inch or two of slop. The only thing that works is to tap the starter button, which means that you will have to take a wild guess where it landed. | ||
| Bikelit |
Pull the spark plugs......... | ||
| Zac4mac |
Back in "the day" you could use the kickstarter to move incrementally. I have always used the "where ever it is" method. My Uly feels like it's on knobbies; I checked the primary and it was nice and loose. Maybe I checked it in a loose spot... I know this is a real sore spot for Froggy.  I just woke up, so this is a great time to put an idea in my head. I'll go out to the garage and see what I can come up with. Z | ||
| Ourdee |
I put mine on a rear stand. 5th gear. Easier with plugs out, not that I'd know personally. Clean rear tire and clean tennis shoes. I use my foot to rotate the tire while laying beside the bike. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Well I started with the intent of pulling the plugs, but in 5th it was fairly easy. You've met me Frank, and I'm no bigger than you. When you start to hit compression, pulse your effort a couple of times and it will work past. I might try RD's method next but I pushed on the tire and pulled on a spoke. Checked the slack in a dozen spots and all were the same, 3/8-1/2". In the future, I'll stick with the old "where ever it is" method. Zack | ||
| Windrider |
Og use rhino strength......  | ||
| Tastroman |
I've always wondered if that's 3/8 inch forced up and down or 3/8 inch free. And does a whirring mean it's to tight or to loose? | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Once you find the tight spot mark the chain with a Sharpie or dot of paint and then its much easier to find. It doesn't make turning the wheel any easier but its easy to spot. I put mine in 5th gear and rock it forwards until I can see the spot on the chain I marked and check it there. | ||
| Buellerxt |
I'll stick with the 'wherever it is when I remove the inspection cover' approach. It would be interesting, and very helpful, to know if the so called 'tight spot' is appreciably different than any other spot on the chain. I'll keep it at about 3/8". It has worked so far! What can be harmed with that approach? | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Put the bike in 5th and push the bike a foot or so. Takes a bit of rocking if it needs to go over compression. No need for a stand and the bike's inertia helps to turn the engine over. | ||
| Swampy |
I have been adjusting my primary chains by ear since the Blast does not have an inspection cover to check chain tension. It is really easy, loosen the lock nut, Start the engine, adjust the screw loose till you hear noise, then tighten it up till the noise goes away but before you hear the "Whirring noise of a too tight chain. Almost like adjusting a carburetor... | ||
| Teeps |
Swampy Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 I have been adjusting my primary chains by ear since the Blast does not have an inspection cover to check chain tension. It is really easy, loosen the lock nut, Start the engine, adjust the screw loose till you hear noise, then tighten it up till the noise goes away but before you hear the "Whirring noise of a too tight chain. Engine temp hot or cold? I'm thinking hot, as that's how I adjusted my Uly's P/chain the last time. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I do it like Buellerxt so that I don't drive myself nuts by chasing a phantom tight spot. | ||
| Swampy |
I try to do it when it is hot/warm | ||
| Ourdee |
I use the drive end for a 3/8 ratchet extension to measure with. I don't force the chain up and down any more than lifting it with a screw driver tip and pushing it down with the same screw driver. No more than a pound or two of pressure. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Feelin' GOOD in South Texas!!!! REALLY GOOD!!! This thread on primary chain adjustment, tight spots, etc. got me a 'little' worried and I searched the subject. Da*n!!! Folks can sure throw out the fear, and I'm not knocking them. I'm sure they are trying to help but fears of flywheel bearings going out with primary chains being too tight, all the way to impotence, okay I'm exaggerating a bit with that last one but you get it. I got out of my chair and and went out to the garage to check my primary chains and I'm pleased, maybe ignorantly, who knows, but I'm pleased that both of my primary chains, the ones on my Buell(2008 ULY XT) and Harley(1996 Sportster Custom) have oil dripping off their respective primary chains and both chains, in the 'cold' position, move up 3/8 of an inch at the 'open the inspection cover and check the primary chain' position! I am a HAPPY CAMPER! This has been a good thread! Thanks. | ||
| Kevinaye |
Thanks everybody for the responses. I have adjusted for the tight spot on the chain and my Uly is running way smoother. Although I did take it for a run with no bags on it which seems to effect the vibration. I will know for sure when I ride fully loaded. I put it in 5th and rolled it forward t advance the chain. I did check out a vid on Youtube where the tech hit the start button to turn the chain. But as has already been pointed out this would make it hard to know what position the chain is in. For everyone that checks the chain in one position. The difference between my tight spot and loose spot was significant. I really think it would be wise to check the chain in more than one location. Cheers | ||
| Motorbike |
I check my chain in about 5 locations and it does actually vary a small amount between tightest and loosest. It varies by about 1/8" on mine, which is more than I would expect but then I remember that this part of the bike WAS built by Harley and it all makes sense. Don't they sub out some work for John Deere and Caterpillar too? Also, to roll the chain forward, I just clamp the bike down on my trusty Craftsman Motorcycle Jack, click it into 5th gear and just give the wheel kind of a bear hug (I hope my wife never sees me doing this, she would be jealous) and rotate it about 2 spokes at the same time. Works great! I have done this twice now in 9300 miles, only as preventive maintenance, no problems. Of course it would be easier to turn with the plugs out but that takes too long for the little bit of gain. Thanks. | ||
| Longshot |
I just did this myself for the first time on my 12Ss. My "workshop" is the parking lot in front of a row of townhouses, and I was nervous about being able to rotate the chain to check different spots. I have neither a lift nor a jack, and I didn't want to try pulling spark plugs with a cold wind and the afternoon sun sinking low. Luckily for me.... It's easy! I put the bike in 5th, and with the engine off, I stood next to it and pushed it by the handlebars. I had to rock it a few times to get past compression, but honestly, I'm a 120lb desk jockey with no kind of muscle at all, and it really was light work to do this. Hopefully this will encourage someone else to give it a try. |
