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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through December 31, 2011 » Collapsed front isolator: the rest of the story » Archive through December 24, 2011 « Previous Next »

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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another thing to do to help the isolator insulate the vibrations is to lubricate the heim joints on all of the motor mount links. Don't forget the one under the air box.

I can see finding a company to vulcanize a new web into the mount.

At $85 a piece I don't want to have to stock a bunch of them for future use, but by their nature, if they are a common failure part they have no reason to stop making them in the future. Of course that would be using common sense.....so who knows?
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At $85 a piece I don't want to have to stock a bunch of them for future use, but by their nature, if they are a common failure part they have no reason to stop making them in the future. Of course that would be using common sense.....so who knows?

I'm fortunate to have 2 spares at present (one replaced unnecessarily ~3 years ago and an extra I acquired when I replaced my engine this year). I plan to hold on to them.

The isolator looks like the most Buell-XB-specific wear part on the bike. HOPEFULLY the OEM will continue to make them; it might be a good idea to figure out who that is before HD cuts off our parts supply. If the OEM shuts down production, we'll have to hope American Sport Bike can eventually locate someone who can build new ones or re-build our old ones.
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Towpro
Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can't see the metal outer sleeve from the pictures supplied.
I am sure another solution could be found if OEM runs out of stock.

Might give you more vibration? but the one on the left might hold up better.


(Message edited by towpro on December 15, 2011)
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Motorbike
Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Towpro, I will try to find some pics of my isolators and show the crimped sleeve. Maybe tomorrow.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, Mark. Man, if they last 45,000 miles I can live with that! : ) It would be nice if we didn't have to replace the entire mechanism at $85. a pop but if it's every 45,000 miles I can deal with it. Cool. Thanks.
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Motorbike
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here are a couple pics of the isolator showing the crimp on the metal sleeve. The next pic shows the name of the vendor that manufactured to isolator.

Now, if we could just purchase the steel sleeve with the rubber bushing molded in, we could press the old one out and a new one in. Thanks.

Crimped steel sleeve:




Manufacturer Info:


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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The fun thing is that Barry controls is across the street from where I am now.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ll=42.203305,-71 .543055&spn=0.006136,0.011877&t=m&z=17&vpsrc=6

I work at Valpey-Fisher.
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Towpro
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It looks like they cast the metal part, wonder if they just buy the bushing, or make that also?
But as long as they are still making them, I bet they don't tell you where to get the bushing : (
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Barry controls makes the whole thing.
I was sweet on a (female!) engineer there once upon a time and got myself in there for a tour of the facilities.
They cast the rubber right in the metal and bake it like that.
At the time of the tour, I recognized the front iso from the tubers and they gave me a couple freebies to try out!

They also make little vibration dampers for chopper and drone mounted cameras.

The engineers explained to me how much time and research was involved in selecting the correct damping frequencies for each application.

Unfortunately, I also found out that she had a boyfriend so I didn't get to further tour HER facilities.

(Message edited by natexlh1000 on December 16, 2011)
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Etennuly
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why could one not find a lower control arm bushing, for say a pickup truck, that will fit the pressed-fit hole. Then drill some holes in the rubber bushing to lighten up its stiffness a bit?
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why could one not find a lower control arm bushing, for say a pickup truck, that will fit the pressed-fit hole. Then drill some holes in the rubber bushing to lighten up its stiffness a bit?

If you could find one with the right O.D. and I.D., I'm sure you could, however, as Nate mentioned above:

The engineers explained to me how much time and research was involved in selecting the correct damping frequencies for each application.

Odds are your bike is going to vibrate a LOT more with home-brewed isolator. Still, if we get to the point that that's all that's available, it'd certainly be worth trying.

Nate- I think checking on the future availability of these parts is an excellent opportunity to re-intitate contact with that female engineer. It will also provide a good excuse to attempt further touring of her facilities.


(Message edited by Hughlysses on December 16, 2011)
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Future touring of her facilities is now out of the question as I am now a married man.

As for the factory across the street, I'm thinking it's going to be a bit of a challenge without an "inside man" to let me in.
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Uly_man
Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Uly-man it is more than just the weight of the engine. It is all of the torque from that vibrating lump as it accelerates, decelerates, slams back down from wheelies, and starts out from a stop with a gigantic load mass. With a heavy load moving it to it's limit, it still has to absorb all of the pulses of the V twin. It is a very dynamic part." As you say it does all of these things.

This sort of mount is used on many things. Excessive movement will split them faster. Age, heat/cooling and oil will as well. The harder you treat a bike the faster the parts will wear. Hard wheelies and stoppies hammer the crap out of a bike.

If the engines running right its smooth enough. A bad idle "rocks" the engine (you can see it) which will not help the mount any. Ok so you may have to replace one at some point but it does not cost that much, you can see the problem easy, its easy to replace and it will not leave you stranded as with a broken belt.

I was on my third belt at 14k miles (7k each), stranded both times (once going on holiday) and I did not treat the bike bad or have any bearing issues either. Its "horses-for-courses" and I know which I would prefer to deal with.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been wondering why my Uly rode like it was on knobbies.
25.8k miles on it and yup, the isolator's torn.

I'll see what my local shop wants for one.
Then I'll probably order one from Al.

At least my first belt lasted 20k...

Z
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Towpro
Posted on Monday, December 19, 2011 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since HD was involved, they might have engineered vibration INTO the mounts
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Uly_man
Posted on Monday, December 19, 2011 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The trick to keeping a bike in good shape is easy. Just give it the "once over" every now and then. Or in other words give it a good looking at every 500 miles or so. Also take notice of what it is doing while your using it IE engine running, handling, etc. I promise you that you will break down less, save money and enjoy the whole experience more because of it.

The Uly was marketed as a sports/adventure bike but it is just a tall XB which is a sports handling bike. As such small wear in its components will affect its performance. If you treat it like a steam engine then thats the sort of performance you are likely to get from it.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, December 19, 2011 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah but steam engines are cool, man.
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Towpro
Posted on Monday, December 19, 2011 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

and the Uly does have the torque curve of a steam engine, all down low.

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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 06:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update -
I got a new isolator and scooted out to the garage.
It was more trouble getting the clutch cable loose than the isolator.
Pulled the old one and it is only starting to fail.
Put the new one on and no difference in feel, still feels like knobbies.

I wonder if the PO replaced it before I got the Uly, as I got it with 12k on the odo.

I'll put the old one back on and wait for it to fail.
New one will sit on the shelf till needed.

Z
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Towpro
Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 07:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How about leaving the new one on, and if it fails you will have a spare "used" one.

Besides, its less work
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 09:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Zac4mac,
Maybe the primary chain needs adjustment or the knobby feel could be that your front tire is cupped. I had a cupped front D616 Dunflop and it felt like I was riding down a never ending railroad track. Replaced the front tire and thought I had died and gone to heaven.
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Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For that knobby feel I would also check the primary chain. Make sure you lube all of the heim joints on all of the engine mounting bars. If even one of them locks up it is like a solid connector to the frame.

Does your bike have the 'comfort kit'? If it has the heat deflector on the rear header pipe it could be touching the frame/tank. Mine slid back over time touching there making the vibes a direct connection.
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

after reading a few of these posts... I think I'm going to change mine just for grins.
It has pert near 60,000 miles on it.
Might explain that vibe feeling I've been getting.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 - 03:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wolf,
How does yours look as compared to the 'new' and 'collapsed' pictures Mark posted at the beginning of this thread? It 'may' be okay! Just curious. Thanks.
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 - 07:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it looks fine. I put a lot of stock in Verns post (Etennuly), and what the hey... I have a back up under the seat. May as well give it a try.

I'll take some pics

(Message edited by wolfridgerider on December 23, 2011)
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Towpro
Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I recall when I had mine the rear height would affect the vibration.

In other words, when a 130lb rider got on the back, vibration increased until I cranked the ride height back up.

Maybe check your ride height adjustment and compare what you have to what the manual calls for.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wonder what Vern's look like when he replaces them every 8500 miles or so? I've read where he carries a lot of 'stuff' on his bike so the every 8500 miles may be necessary in his case, while lasting multiples of that on other bikes, but it would be interesting to know if Vern's fully collapse or still look good at 8500 miles but aren't. Vern? You're our front motor mount Guru, Man! That's not your only Uly specialty, Vern, by far, but your added input on pictures, or condition, at 8500 miles would sure be appreciated. Thanks.
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Danair
Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 - 08:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Barry makes tons of aircraft engine mount isolator bushings and I use them exclusively instead of the high priced spread (Lord Mounts) unless they don't cross ref. Got a good rep that I'll ask about these. They are no different in form and function than the airplane ones.
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Teeps
Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Danair Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011am:
Got a good rep that I'll ask about these. They are no different in form and function than the airplane ones.


I'm guessing that your rep will have no knowledge of the Buell part. And, even if he does, he will not be able to sell them, to "us", due to contract agreements with Buell/H-D.
There is probably a clause to destroy the tooling at the end of the contract, too.

Would be nice to order direct from maker. I'd bet they would cost a fraction of what H-D charges.
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2011 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I cannot find any pictures that I took of my mounts before removing them. I can tell you that it did not set down on the bolt head as others have done.

Each of the mounts that have come out have had the web partially torn. They were weakened to the point that I could feel more vibrations than normal. My back is fairly sensitive to vibration. When the web rubber is partially torn it allows the isolator to max out easier under acceleration and deceleration, thus it can transfer the vibes earlier.

A couple of years ago a good friend of mine had his Uly isolator looking like the one at the beginning of this post where it is setting right down on the bolt head. We swapped bikes after a discussion about vibrations. I rode his about a quarter of a mile where I had to stop because I could not tolerate the vibration.

We put a new isolator in his and he was as happy as when it was new. He knew it was vibrating more than it should but thought it was a normal thing. His Uly had about 12,000 miles on it at that time.
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